Boogerschnot 12 Report post Posted February 20, 2008 I borrowed my buddies dwel/tach meter a couple of days ago to get my idle down to around 700,, It was actually set way higher than I though it was, up at 1400rpm and would diesel some times when I would shut it off.. So I was able to get it down to about 850 but after that I had no more adjustment on my curb Idle screw. It was touching knothing, so how can i get it down a little more? And Im running a performer plus cam, but it seems to idle really rough,, the entire car vibrates (or convulses) when Im at Idle.. How Can i smooth that out? I adjusted the mixture screws a little further out to get it to idle at 850, otherwise it would not, it would just die. And I adjusted the timing just a tad also to the smoothest running spot at 850rpm. I also opened up the choke to fully open since it was a operating temperature.. Is there anything else I need to do to the choke to get it adjusted correctly for those cold days? And I guess I really need a timing light. Any suggestions on how to tame this jumpy beast? Otherwise It runs great.. I do feel like I may have messed up my break in though.. I drive it about 10 minutes to and from work at about 70mph,, and that has been most of my break in, I try to slow and speed up in bursts on the highway on the ride though.. I still have a good bit of mist coming up out of the valve cover breathers.. Is 350 miles too late to seat the rings by nailing it a few times?? Ive been getting on her, particularly going up hill for the extra load.. But it seems that she should not be breathing out of the valve covers like she is.. Let me know if it sounds fishy to you? And: I ordered a bunch of stuff from Mustangs Unlimited: -Grab a track mid eye leaf springs -KYB Gas a just shocks -Battery Tray -monte carlo bar -new driver side hood hinge -window glue (to stick my drivers side window back in the track) -couple of decals -new shackles and bolts I cant wait to get it all in and installed.. Should drive like a newer car! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boogerschnot 12 Report post Posted February 20, 2008 I ordered all those parts on Saturday and just got a phone call from my wife that they are now sitting in the living room. They got here at about noon.. YIPPEE!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grabber70Mach 107 Report post Posted February 20, 2008 I really think you need to get your timing set with a timing light for a start. Are you running points? If so make sure you have them adjusted correctly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boogerschnot 12 Report post Posted February 20, 2008 I agree.. Im not too sure how to set the points though.. any pointers? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grabber70Mach 107 Report post Posted February 21, 2008 Don't know if this will help you. http://home.earthlink.net/~goodspeeds/POINTS.HTM here's another http://www.centuryperformance.com/point_settings.asp Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boogerschnot 12 Report post Posted February 21, 2008 Got it,, I checked the dwell last night and it was off a little, the gap was really small so I adjusted it out to specs and it does run better.. I just need to time it now.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted February 21, 2008 IMO a light is only good to see where you are, not determine where you need to be. Every engine is different even ones built the same and I'm of the school to time the car by ear and give it as much timming as it likes. The stock setting is like 6* BTDC and that is enemic at best. If you advance it until it starts to ping and then back it off a little my guess is the light will show you at somewhere between 11* - 13* BTDC and that is where your car will likely run best. If you have a vacumm advance dizzy still just be sure to pull and plug the line first before you time it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boogerschnot 12 Report post Posted February 21, 2008 Thanks,, when I was looking up the Dwell angle the book told me to time it at 10BTDC,, that seemed low.. sooo.. Timing by ear is good for me,, and Im getting pretty good at it too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
R4K 10 Report post Posted February 21, 2008 I've had my 390 up to 18*/20* before, back when I was learning my engine and learning to curve my Mallory, and it ran great. I finally settled on something around 14*/36*, since I'm not really that into performance, but it's fun to experiment with. I do so hate the sound of pinging, though, hehe. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boogerschnot 12 Report post Posted February 21, 2008 meet too.. sounds like marbles falling out of the exhaust.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rks pilot 10 Report post Posted February 22, 2008 Boogerschnot, sound to me like you are getting good advice about timing but I think you also have a carb problem. Unless timing and dwell id way off, you should not run out of idle adjustment. What kind and how old is your carb. RKS Pilot Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rks pilot 10 Report post Posted February 22, 2008 Just another thought, with the older engines I don't believe nailing it with a new motor is the way to break it in. My grandfather built some indy cars back in the 40's and 50's and always told me to cruise between 50 and 70 progressively for the first 500 miles. Not to say that what you are doing it wrong for the new technology of newer motors, but I am old school. RKS pilot Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boogerschnot 12 Report post Posted February 22, 2008 Im keeping it below 3000 rpm most of the time. Not pegging it out or going full throttle.. But the carb is an autolite 2100D.. My timing is still off a little though, I am getting some pinging,, I just really need to get a timing light on it.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
