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Trinitys

Found a good deal on a stroker crank and 69 351w block :)

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A buddy of mine at work is selling his eagle forges 3.825 crank and 69 block for 300. I think its time to invest in some afr heads! So this combo should get me a 393w.

 

Anyway, so what kind of pistons, speed pro or Keith Black or other? Plus while I’m at it ........don't you hate that......the engine bay is getting detailed.

 

So do we have any experience engine builder? I’ve only built I motor in my 28 years. I’m pretty damned mechanical inclined; I work on submarines for crying out loud. I should be able to pull this off well.

 

This is my game plan so far. Use the truck rods in my spare 351w. It’s an ‘84 block.

Decide on the pistons.

Have the assembly completely blueprinted and balanced.

 

 

I still don’t know on the cam…….I’m still researching.

Maybe use rouch or afr 185’s? Don’t know on the heads either.

Keeping the stealth intake.

Keeping the road demon……I might be going to a speed demo carb.

The aod should handle it ok, if not……hey Lantech…

 

And I want to keep the compression down…..10:1

 

 

Anyway that’s about all I could think of since he asked if I wanted them or not, this morning. Opinions and advice welcome!

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Hey Trinity. I thought I'd share some advice with you. My father purchased a rebuilt engine advertising that it was a new long block motor with all new internal parts. Turned out, that the block itself was bored out .080" making the engine get hot because the cylinder walls were very thin and it was bored incorrectly. Make sure you look at those parts closely to be sure that they haven't been used. Also, for machine work, I don't recommend you go to John's Mustangs because of money issues. Also I am hearing noises on my 377 stroker. If your going to build this engine yourself, make sure you have the block square decked as well as the heads milled if they didn't come milled properly from the manufacturerer. Make sure you get it balanced with the appropriate balancer and flexplate combination to reduce engine noise. I personally have the AFR 185 cc heads that are Smog legal due to a bill that was going to pass in CA, but got defeated. Oh, go to http://www.enjoythedrive.com to find out about any smog laws or bills being passed. I also have a Ford Racing B303 cam shaft, JE custom made standard bore aluminum forged piston which cost me $800 dollars for a set of 8; Eagle forged crank with 6.7 H-beam rods. I personally would stay away from Lentech, that transmission only lasted 1,600 miles before it went bad. I had mine rebuilt for the third time from Performance Transmission in Santee. I brought back on Wednesday and it shifts great. Each shift is firm and crisp, not brutal like someone rearending you. It's a new Ford valve body with a TransGo shift kit and servos. It also has a hardened 2-piece input shaft for durability meaning you can travel long distances as opposed to a 1-piece input shaft designed for racing applications and creates excessive heat inside the transmission.

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Balance the lower end, equa-deck the block, forged aluminum postons , shot peen the rods,(not really a necessity but cheap insurance) ,check ALL clearances twice then check them again.! AFR heads,

As far as the cam, stay around 108 Deg centerline, and by all means keep it clean!

 

just my .02 from experience

 

John

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here are the pics....in total i got

1. forged eagle 375 stroke 4340 crank,

2. '69 351w block

3. '73 351w block

4. milidon 351w 4 bolt main conversion.

total $300

 

now, i just hope it really is what he says...

check out the pics, i think anyone could stamp that crank with those markings. i'm gonna call eagle in the morning and see what the source says about it.

 

http://www.trinitysmustangs.com/ref2.htm

 

Picture%20009.jpg

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sweet i would try to use the 73 block since you'll have more piston options that way. you can probably get most of your money back on the 69 block if you put it on ebay. are you gonna use the 4-bolt kit? if not i'd be interested in it.

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