Burn

MY DD is a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer. It has 126k miles and I bought it new off the showroom floor. I plan to drive it until the wheels fall off...or the motor blows.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>

I was impressed with the results. I would have guessed the bolts would strip out around 1000-1500lbs. I wasn't even close.

I stumbled across this article from Mustangs Plus today and had to share it with you guys. Read the article and let me know if you’re surprised with the results. Jim

I recently broke-in my engine using the following Lunati cam break-in procedures: (Note: I used Royal Purple Break-in oil during the break-in and for the first 250 miles. After that I switched to RP 10w-40.) Lunati recommends “pre-oiling” your engine prior to start up. Failure to do so will result in premature parts wear and possible cam failure. Dry cam lobes and lifters will wear out immediately upon start up. Lunati will not warranty cams that have failed due to improper break-in, lack of lubrication, or dry start ups. Oil pump primer tools are available through most major auto parts suppliers and speed shops. We have found that utilizing straight 30 weight, non-detergent motor oil works best for initial start up and cam break in. Switching to a multi-grade, premium quality oil for your climate conditions is acceptable after the first 500 miles of engine operation. DO NOT use synthetic or synthetic blend oils prior to the first 5000 miles of engine operation. Lunati recommends filling the oil filter with fresh oil in addition to the crankcase prior to initial start up. Filling the carburetor float bowls, or priming the injection pump will facilitate quick engine start up. This prevents cam and lifter wear during the initial engine firing. Once the engine fires, Lunati recommends setting the throttle RPM at 2000-2500 for the first 20 minutes of run time. After the first 20 minutes, we suggest increasing the engine RPM in increments of 500 RPM for 1 minute at a time up to 3500. After reaching 3500 RPM and maintaining for one minute, begin to decrease RPM in increments of 500 RPM for 1 minute at a time until the engine is back down to 1000 RPM. Once this is accomplished, your Lunati cam and lifters have successfully completed their initial break in run cycle. In the event your engine develops a problem (overheating, fuel leak, etc.) shut the engine off immediately, let it cool down, repair the problem and resume your break in procedure.

I'm running 235/60/15's on the front and 255/60/15 on the rear. The wheels I have are original 15x7 Magnum 500's with 4" BS. My car is lowered in the front 1" with lowering springs and 1" in the rear with the mid eye leaf springs. I'll try and post a profile picture of my car this weekend. The rear really squats and looks low with 20 gal of gas in the tank. Check out My Project pix's. There is a decent profile picture of my car on a flatbed hauler.

I do a lot of buying online, so "I" would like to know who this guy is and what sites he's been selling his parts on. IMHO, He refunded a good percentage of your money, so he's not a total looser. He may be blind, poor, have medical bills to pay, selling someone else’s parts, trying to put his kid through college, losing his home, trying to repair his daily driver, etc... but not a total looser. :) Jim

I'm guessing he's refering to this company. http://www.classicinstruments.com/ If so, they're selling the '67 and '68 gauge clusters between the prices of $1500-$1300. I would guess they would be selling the '69/'70 clusters for about the same. Again…If so, it’s not going to be affordable for this average Joe.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>

Your Stang is looking great. I especially like the blacked out hood and scoop. Keep up the good work!

I really like that Flaming River keyed column. It looks like a '70 Mustang stock unit. I'll send them a email and ask what it'll take to fit it in a '70 Stang. I may even look into thier power rack and pinion setups too.

Classic Adam, Who do you work for?

You're right, when he let go of the car the wheels were still spinning. He must have been using his mind to hold the car still. This guy is amazing. :) Its funny how everyone clapped and cheered when he finished like it was an incredible accomplishment. This guy needs a cape!

I like the splicing idea a lot. How about the location for the switch...will it work in place of the cigarette lighter or is the hole too big? I'll attach a pix of my lower dash. The hole on the far right of the column is for the cigarette lighter. Also, should I consider using a modern ignition switch setup rather than a '69? I didn't know the '69's switches caused underdash harness fires. :scared:

Does anyone know what it would take to move my ignition key to the lower dash in my '70? The reason I need it moved is because I want to go with a aftermarket tilt steering column. As you probably know Ford moved the ignition key to the column on the 70's. Would it be easy to put a '69 type ignition switch where my current cigarette lighter is? Thanks. Jim

The matting surface on your 3rd member and/or housing may have pits or nicks and is causing the leak. Some guys use silicone sealer along with the gasket. Mine is using silicon only and no leaks so far. If you have a trac-loc don't forget the friction modifier.

This guy is amazing! I dont know how he does it. Super Human??? :no:

Here's a different video of the car filmed by Auto Resto Mod. It shows some build shots and a few words about the car from the builder and the owner. The info about the shaker is amazing. Each half was made from a 120 lbs. of aluminum block.

Yes, Sir!!! I'd like to see a gauge cluster that you can fit modern gauges in. It would also be nice to have a adaptor harness that goes from the stock harness to the new cluster. Plug-n-play! Also, Keep the price between $100-$200 and they'll probably sell like hot cakes.

Jayru, If you can come up with $500 you can upgrade to the MP Brakes 11" rear drums kit from CJ Pony Parts. They come with backing plate, all hardware and drums. From what I've read these are excellent and are as good, if not better, than 11" rear discs and will fit 14 and 15" stock wheels. Some new cars still come with rear drums and I think all 8 wheelers have drums!!! For $600 you can buy a 11.625" rear BAER disc kit.

Nice find and good looking ride. How’s the motor run? I noticed the numbers marked on the top of the pistons don’t match the cylinder number. Was this planned or a mistake? I think no. 1 cylinder is on the passenger side front on SBF.

I took some videos this weekend to share. This one is a few weeks old. Im getting ready to head to the muffler shop. Turn it up! :tongue_smilie: http://youtu.be/48E293uufc8 This is a walk around taken this weekend. I forgot to shut the pass side door all the way. I still have some body panel fit issues I need to address before I put on the Mach 1 side rocker mouldings. http://youtu.be/ys_-4crt_BI The classic Youtube Rev your engine! :cowboy: http://youtu.be/j5zLXH1ayBE The cars running pretty good right now. Things I need to fix in the up coming weeks. 1. starter issue. burned up the db mini after 7-10 starts. I have a replacment coming in early this week. If I fry the new one then the issue must be with the flywheel. :( 2. I cant pump grease into the lower Pass or driver side ball joints and DS upper ball joint. Have been trying with car in the air so maybe it needs to be on the ground. I've been able to get some grease in there, but not a lot. 3. Need to refit headliner, install sail panels and windlace...and finish installing the rest of the rear interior parts.

It would be sweet if these guys started to mass produce some of their interior parts. I would totally do the dash, doors and console. The calipers and door mirrors just dont look right to me. Yellow??? Come on! :wacko:

Ttt

Welcome and good luck with your project. Have you thought about going with a 351w instead of stroking a 302? Check out this write up. It may change your mind. Click here!

This is one sweet ride! I'd like one please! At SEMA 2010, the first place Mothers Shine Award went to the 1970 Ford Mustang Mach1 Fastback "Dragon" painted with BASF's R-M Diamont Dragon Blood as the paint color. See the unveiling of the Dragon at SEMA in this video along with an interview with Ringbrothers.

Do your headlights work? If not, test your battery cables. I just had to replace a bad "red" battery cable.