Burn

I installed the backup harness and it fixed the problem. It must have a built-in jumper. Yay!!! Next is to fix the leaking dual fuel line and radiator and then I'll try starting the motor again. Guys, thanks for you help! Jim

Mach1Rider, Its a manual transmission and I don't think there is a jumper wire connected. I also don't have my backup light harness installed yet. Will installing the harness take care of the jumper?

The new solenoid didn't help. Could this one be bad too? I also found out that the brown wire goes towards the rear-most post. With this setup the starter engages, but it wont turn over. (I'm saying the starter engages. Is this correct or is it the solenoid?) My battery was 11.33volts so I'm charging it right now. I'll make sure I keep a cable loose just incase.

468stang, The underdash wiring is original and was restored/check by Randy at Midlife. Maxum96, I have the Red wire on the terminal closest to the firewall and brown one towards the front of the car. If I swap them the starter engages, but doesnt turn over. I guess I'll head to the Parts store and buy a new relay. The one on there now I bought new 4 years ago when I bought the car so maybe I got a bad one. I'll let you know if that helps.

I just checked and its sending juice to it in the run position. I also noticed that when I turn it to the start position my stereo dies and the "brake system" light comes on. I dont know what that means. Maybe I have stuff hooked up wrong at the solenoid. Should the starter engage ,but not turn over in the run position? It does, if that matters.

I tried to start my new motor yesterday and ran into a small issue. When I turn the key into the "run" position (and before it reach the start position) the starter started turning over. I remember this was an issue before I started the restoration and I thought a new ignition switch would fix the issue, but I guess not. I also tried moving the switch to different locations, but that didnt help. Its a 1970 so the ignition switch and key are located on the steering column. Has anyone see this before? Could this be a problem with the starter solenoid or maybe a bad ignition switch? Thanks. Jim

IMHO, Its a RestoMod so I'd think Fuel Injection for sure. You also have tons of room in the engine compartment, so a 4.6 or 5.4 supercharged mod motor would be way cool. If you don't have that kind of money you could always throw in a EFI 302 and a T5 or AOD/AODE. Whatever you choose I'm sure it will be cool. Enjoy your build! Burn out!

Welcome to the site, Craig! I'm running a setup similar to yours and didnt need to cut the hood. (351w, Edelbrock RPM, Summit Racing 750 mech carb w/spacer, World Windsor Sr and stock air cleaner). Your setup is a little taller so you might look into one of the low profile Cobra air cleaners if you dont want to cut your hood. The stock z-bar should work fine with the newer diaphram pressure plates. They're supposed to have less pedal effort compared to the old three fingure plates. I heard that under extreme conditions the three fingure plates could bend the z-bars. Thats one of the reasons I went with the Centerforce Dual Friction diaphram one. I havnt actually ran this setup quite yet, but will in a month or less... I'm glad to hear those Hookers work with your Z-bar. I came really close to getting those same header, but lucked out and got a deal on a set of FPA's just last week. What mod's did you have to make to get the Zbar to work? Jim

Looking good! What are plans for the motor and tranny?

I'll take a guess...how about these Pace Setter 70-2258 Long Tube Black Exhaust Header. Seem like the only headers with 2258 in the number.

Panteramatt, Do you remember the Hooker model number? Are you using 4speed w/z-bar?

Looking good!

Hi Margaret, 1. Yes, they're called dash panel or clock panel or clock delete panel. Atleast thats what most people call them. Here is one near me for sale. http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/pts/1909104119.html. You can find tons of these for sale on eBay. The drivers side panel is called Instrument Panel. No, a '68 dash panel will not fit a '69, but a '70 will. Good luck and Welcome!

Mad, Are you using a toploader with factory bellhousing and z-bar with the FPA's and no issues? Fits perfect?

Mad, Are you using a toploader with factory bellhousing and z-bar with the FPA's and no issues? Fits perfect?

Here is the one I bought from Dallas Mustang and its a original Ford tooling from Dashes Direct. http://www.dallasmustang.com/mustang-parts/product/DASH-PADS-1969-1970-BLACK-WITHOUT-AIR-ORIGINAL-TOOLING/13060 It's a very nice piece and fit great!

Here is the one I bought from Dallas Mustang and its a original Ford tooling from Dashes Direct. http://www.dallasmustang.com/mustang-parts/product/DASH-PADS-1969-1970-BLACK-WITHOUT-AIR-ORIGINAL-TOOLING/13060 It's a very nice piece and fit great!

Note to self: "Do the brakes before you install the engine and put the hood on." Another note: "Have someone else do the brakes!" The brakes are finally done! I spent way too many hours working on that shit this weekend. I decided to use the 1974 Maverick manual disc/drum master cylinder because I heard it was the shit! I'm using a brand new distribution block and all new brake hardware. I bench blead the master cylinder, installed it, blead the brakes twice and they're working great. I would like to thank my fiance' for helping me blead the brakes today. I couldn't have done it without her. Brakes are done so I'm back on the engine this week. Last week I found a Muffler shop to install the exhaust. They talked me into shit canning my shorties and going long tube. The problem is I cant find a cheap long tube header for my setup. It looks like I'm going to go with either FPA's or Hooker Super Comp. If anyone is using these please let me know what you think of them? Peace out! PS: Check out Pix #2. There's a bolt (bottom left) that holds both the front right and rear brake lines to the firewall. I probably spent over 1 hr trying to get that bitch to line up correctly. I hate you bolt and brake lines!

Note to self: "Do the brakes before you install the engine and put the hood on." Another note: "Have someone else do the brakes!" The brakes are finally done! I spent way too many hours working on that shit this weekend. I decided to use the 1974 Maverick manual disc/drum master cylinder because I heard it was the shit! I'm using a brand new distribution block and all new brake hardware. I bench blead the master cylinder, installed it, blead the brakes twice and they're working great. I would like to thank my fiance' for helping me blead the brakes today. I couldn't have done it without her. Brakes are done so I'm back on the engine this week. Last week I found a Muffler shop to install the exhaust. They talked me into shit canning my shorties and going long tube. The problem is I cant find a cheap long tube header for my setup. It looks like I'm going to go with either FPA's or Hooker Super Comp. If anyone is using these please let me know what you think of them? Peace out! PS: Check out Pix #2. There's a bolt (bottom left) that holds both the front right and rear brake lines to the firewall. I probably spent over 1 hr trying to get that bitch to line up correctly. I hate you bolt and brake lines!

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll be using stock bellhousing and stock Z-bar along with World Windsor Sr. heads. Do you think I'll have any issues with the FPA's? I guess the more mods you have the harder it is to find a perfect header. I have stock manual steering too. Did you all look at the Hooker Super Comps (6208's) before you went with the FPA's? I've read both good and bad things about them. I think they might work too since I dont have many mods. Hookers are $100 less than the FPA's. Buckeye, Those FPA's look very nice. Thanks for the pixs!

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll be using stock bellhousing and stock Z-bar along with World Windsor Sr. heads. Do you think I'll have any issues with the FPA's? I guess the more mods you have the harder it is to find a perfect header. I have stock manual steering too. Did you all look at the Hooker Super Comps (6208's) before you went with the FPA's? I've read both good and bad things about them. I think they might work too since I dont have many mods. Hookers are $100 less than the FPA's. Buckeye, Those FPA's look very nice. Thanks for the pixs!

I'm thinking about buying a set of FPA headers for my 351W and would like to know if anyone is using them and what they think about them. Thanks. Jim

I'm thinking about buying a set of FPA headers for my 351W and would like to know if anyone is using them and what they think about them. Thanks. Jim

Hey Pak, any update with this? Thanks!

Hey Pak, any update with this? Thanks!