flight96

Your correct about the rubber. Here's whats left of mine. I can find the drivers side but not the passenger side !! As you can see by the pic these were never painted so there was no protection from the elements....I circled where the felt is/was....

OK, So I have figured out the Door skin strut issue, but Im still looking for this part...See the drawing below.... I'm starting to think this is not being reproduced...

Those look great !! Were they hard to do ? I may look at doing this as well if its fairly easy.

Boy I wish I did win !! These rebuilds are quite the money pit....As for seeing it when it's done....That seems like such a loooooong way away !! I was hoping for May/June....But now I'll be lucky to have it done this summer. Biggest problem is parts availability and time.:scared: Good news is the door skins arrived yesterday and look pretty good. There are a few issues...of course...One is the Skins came with the strut along the top of the door that the window runners bolt to. However it looks different than the onld strut. The strut is like a [ channel. On the original one the channel faces this way [. On the new one it faces this way ]. Sorry I have pics but Im at work and can't post just yet. I will when I get home. Next is there is a part inside the door that has 2 bolts and bolts to the backside near the top of the door. It's an L shape with a small piece of felt that puts pressure on the window as you roll it up and down. I found a part # (222A54) however I can not find this part anywhere.:helpsmilie: Again I will post pics when I get home. Thanks for any help !!

OUCH !!!! Bummer...As long as your OK, that's the main thing. Cars can be repaired !!!

So sorry to hear.....My prayers go out to him and his family......Life is so precious. We take things for granted too often.

Thanks bswor. Is this the kit you have ?

Ahhhhh...good idea !! I may just do that !! Thanks.

Don't ya just love those surprises !!??? I feel your pain...

I agree 100%. So here's a question. Can I just change the fuse box to a modern style? If so I can do the individual circuts after that. The harness looks very simple when laid out.

Good Day All, I'm looking at replacing my harness and have found a good deal on this kit (Painless 10123). Will this kit work for a 69 Vert ? Has anyone here used this? Any info would be greatly appreciated. I am in no way a wire guru.... I'mJust a dumb car painter !!:tongue: Thanks !!

NO...no...no !!! After you blast them you need to use an etch primer on the bare metal. Then you can either use a 2 part primer or paint over the etch (If you use the right etch primer) Paint will not stick to bare metal for very long.

So since Im waiting I may as well install the R&P and sway bar. All the suspension and steering is now complete!! For a complete write up on the R&P installation click HERE

Im still waiting for the last inner fender to arrive. I have finished the rest of the engine bay...All primed and ready......:whistling:

And your done !!!!! As you can see I haven't got the PS pump installed as there is no motor yet. Once its in I will update this thread. I hope this helps you on your install. It took me about 3 hours to do the install and about 100 hours of reading and research before I was confident enough to do it. But in all honesty this is a very easy install. I cant wait to drive it !!! Good Luck !!!

The steering linkage is a simple hook up. Be sure the white lines on the spindle line up with the line on the steering 'box'. Try to center your steering wheel and be sure your wheels are facing forward. 1) Separate the steering linkage by pulling the sliding shafts apart. 2) Slide the link onto the steering column. Don't tighten yet. 3) Slide the shaft back into the top shaft and slide the bottom coupler to the R&P. Be patient, this can be a bit finicky.Be sure that the bottom of the coupler is not rubbing on the steering box area. 4) Once done tighten up all the allen keys and nuts....

Now tighten your inner and outer tie rods and spindle. There are a few things you should do here. 1) Use locktite (Blue) thread sealer on the tie rod nuts that hold the coupler in place. 2) Grease up the outer tie rods where it connects to your spindles. 3) Be sure you have pulled the supplied dust boots over the end of the inner tie rods.

Once your happy with all the dry fits, then it's time to do the final tightening of all the fasteners. Tighten all the nuts/bolts to the frame. The set up comes with bolts, lock washers, washers and nuts. I used all the supplied hardware except for the nuts. I replaced the regular nuts with nylock stainless steel nuts. Once tightened up then tighten the inner tie rods to the rack and install the small keeper pin. (See Pics) After that's done slide the dust boot over the ball joint where the tie rod meets the rack.

Next its time to assemble the coupler and outer tie rod. Be sure to have the nuts in place on both the inner and outer tie rods. They will hold the coupler in place. Be sure to have the elbow of the coupler facing the rear of the car. (See Pic ) Also, be sure to have everything centered. The rack comes with marks on it to make sure that its all at center. There are marks on the R&P parts as well as the steering 'box' and spindle. BE SURE THEY ALL LINE UP. Once that is done straighten out the rotors/spindles and attach the outer tie rods. The pics below are all dry fits for now. Once you do the final install be sure to grease the tie rods where they meet the spindles.

Next I installed the rack. It fit in very easily. Be sure to slide the bolts in from the inside of the engine bay. Not only does it make hanging the rack easier if your doing it alone, it also gives you more room by the steering linkage. DO NOT tighten the rack up yet. You may need to do some minor adjustments.

Once happy with the test fit I moved on to the tie rod assembly. Randalls set up comes with the inner tie rod that's about 11 3/4" long. Its a little too long for the 69 application. The articles I have read said to cut off anywhere between 1 3/8" to 2 1/2". I decide to measure the distance between the holes on each spindle where the outer tie rods connect. On my car that was 47". Once I knew that I measured the R&P setup to decide what length the inner tie rods needed to be. For mine I cut 1" off each inner tie rod. Once cut I test fit the coupler and the outer tie rods. I have new outers, as I am replacing all the front end, but you can re-use your old ones. Also, this is a good time to place the dust boots on the inner tie rods.

Now the steering column is complete. Its a good time to test fit the actual rack and the steering linkage.

I know there are a few places to get installation info for the Randalls R&P installation but after doing it on my 69 Vert tonight, I thought I would add this to help others out in the future. There are a few things that are not covered in the articles I read. First off, lets talk about the steering column. For the 69, you don't 'need' to cut the column. I did the cut because I didn't find this out until after I started. Now if you want to cut it, that's OK. Here's how to do it... Remove the steering column from the car. You can do this with the column in but it's easier with it out. Once out you need to remove the lower steering shaft. This is simply done by taking a hammer and striking the rag joint at the bottom of the column. It will slid out very easily. Now, follow these steps.... 1) Measure the column from the top to 28 3/8". 2) Try to cut the column as even as possible. I ran tape around the column to be sure of my cut. 3) Clean up the edges of your cut and remove the plastic ring inside the column. 4) Now is a good time to test fit the coupling shaft. Be sure to slip the inner shaft on the coupler. Sometimes it jams beside it and it just seems to be on. 5) Once your happy with the fit. drill a small (1/8") hole through both the steering shaft and the coupling shaft. 6) Remove the coupler and clean out any metal shavings. I used a blower to get it all out. Then replace the couple shaft into the steering column. Again, be sure the inner shafts engage properly. 7) Now line up the hole you drilled and insert a screw to hold the shaft and coupler in place.

Some progress on the engine !!! The Machine shop has done all the mods to the heads and the block. They are quit impressed with how good the block is. All their waiting for now is the pistons. All the other parts are here. It will be great to see this finally done. I have been hunting parts for this build for a looooong time !!!

It must have been a 1970's/early 80's repair !! I remember using brass way back then...(Ya...I'm getting old...:wheelchair:) Thank The good lord for MIG welders !! I couldn't imaging doing a resto without it !!