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nickjames138

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Posts posted by nickjames138

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Hey Guys, I just got rid of the Fitech and replaced it with a Holley Sniper! Took me a few days to figure out the wiring, but it was fairly simple. Now I'm on to wiring the dakota digital. All I need to figure out is which wire goes where. I have to remove all the wires from the old pin connector that plugs into the circuit board then put the appropriate wires into the brain of the Dakota Digital. I've found schematics, but I'm so confused and want to do this right the first time. I just need to know which wire goes where. I also bought a BIM for my holley Sniper to daisy chain some of the info to my gauges. Any help is GREATLY appreciated! 

    post-45476-0-07397300-1468971459.jpg.b78172dbd5791e9d0ccbedaf99721961.jpgprd_zm_730.jpg.7c3e767f44790d3c34895e310773e865.jpg

  3. Posted · Report reply

    On 11/20/2018 at 9:02 PM, nickjames138 said:

    Barnett, I haven't gotten under my dash yet, partly because I have no idea what to look for, but All of the sudden All of my electronics (radio, pw, electric fan, lights etc) come on when I turn the switch to the on position (1/4 turn)...then once I turn the key another 1/4 turn to start and the engine busts off all of my electronics are gone. 

    I'm guessing it's a wire that's going to the actual keyed ignition? Sometimes it will work though. Then sometimes the bulb light in the keyed ignition will light up and other times it won't. Feels like something is shorting out, but I don't even know what to look for? 

    fyi if anyone else has this issue....It was the ignition Switch! I replaced it and now it works! but as these old cars go...now my electric fan stopped working for some reason. FiTech is sending me a new chip for my handheld and said that should fix the issue since the handheld tells the fan when to turn on. 

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Barnett, I haven't gotten under my dash yet, partly because I have no idea what to look for, but All of the sudden All of my electronics (radio, pw, electric fan, lights etc) come on when I turn the switch to the on position (1/4 turn)...then once I turn the key another 1/4 turn to start and the engine busts off all of my electronics are gone. 

    I'm guessing it's a wire that's going to the actual keyed ignition? Sometimes it will work though. Then sometimes the bulb light in the keyed ignition will light up and other times it won't. Feels like something is shorting out, but I don't even know what to look for? 

  7. Posted · Report reply

    7 hours ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

    Some of the Powermaster starters are wired differently, not all.  The model I bought was their Mastertorque series and it didn't require any wiring changes.  I think their lower torque models, the Powermax series requires a small wiring change between the stock inner fender mounted solenoid and the starter.  It's a simple change and they come with instructions that are easy to follow. 

    Awesome! I'll definitely give this a try. Cant hurt at this point. What do you think the life expectancy of a power master is? Is it the same as a factory starter or do you think it's much longer since it's a more updated starter? 

  8. Posted · Report reply

    13 hours ago, barnett468 said:

    are you using the same carburetor?

    where is the float level set on the carb?

    what is your initial timing set at?

    does your intake have a port from the exhaust to heat the intake?

    for now as a quick and free test you can reduce the timing 3 - 4 degrees and try that.

     

    the powermaster starters 69 mach mentioned are good but you need to wire the pmgr starters differently at the starter or the solenoid.

     

     

     

     

    Hey Barnett, I have a FiTech carb. Would the timing make it hard to start once it's hot but easy to start when it's cold? I'm still confused on how timing curves work. 

  9. Posted · Report reply

    I have Global West. I basically did everything Global West and it stiffened the handling! So much better. I'm in CA and going 70 on the freeway around a slight bend was SCARY. The front and rear were lagging and trying to sync up to each other. The SFC helped tremendously. Here's how they look underneath which I'm completely fine with. just my opinion, but they welded right in. Simple

    IMG_2052.JPG

  10. Posted · Report reply

    3 minutes ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

    I guess you are talking about slow cranking when the engine is warm or hot.  If so, that problem has been around for decades on Fords, especially after headers are installed.  Heat shields will help once in a while.  Sometimes the positive cable to the starter is getting too hot if it's also near the header.

    If all your cables and connections are good, I'd say you likely need a permanent magnet gear reduction starter (PMGR)  My headers are not very close to my starter on my 351W, but I tried 4 stock type starters in a couple of months.  Same issue as yours, cranked fine cold, but would crank very slow after running the engine for anything more than about 20 minutes.  I eventually spent the money on a PMGR starter from Powermaster.  Without changing anything else I have never had any more issues.

    Before buying a new starter, again make certain your all your cables and connections are good.  The ground from the battery should go to the engine block.  Probably in the end, you'll need a better starter.

    This is the exact issue I'm having. I don't understand why it just started to happen, but I think just buying a new PMGR starter is best. So, just to clarify...this completely fixed your issue? 

  12. Posted · Report reply

    I've been trying fix this issue for a few months now. My car starts right up in the morning. I drive around town and make a few stops and my car gets harder and harder to start until it just won't start anymore. The starter tries to start, but it sounds TIRED! If I let it sit for 20 mins or so it cools down and starts up again. I never used to have this issue until I blew my intake gasket and got water in my block. I rebuilt the engine with a new comp cam and new distributor. Since having this problem I've gotten a new starter (didn't work). I wrapped the starter with a heat shield/blanket (still no luck). I replaced the factory alternator with a 150amp and big gauge charge wire. It runs like a beast it just doesn't want to start again once I turn it off after driving around town. I've even ran to the gas tank and opened the cover...no hissing/vapor lock. My next guess is to wrap the headers with a heat shield. The starter is very close to the headers...not much I can do about it.....OR IS THERE? 

  13. Posted · Report reply

    On 11/2/2018 at 8:55 AM, RPM said:

    In one of your pics, the dynamat doesn't cover the firewall. Do you plan on applying it there, or not. Mine is fully covered and I can still feel some heat from the engine/ headers. 

    SAME! I dynamated everything because I live in CA and the summers are unbearable to drive my car...even with Vintage Air (that actually blows super cold). I still get heat under my feet even after dynamat and firewall even after dynamat. I see that Summit sells a heat shield pad for floor boards....has anyone heard if these work? I'm guessing it's the same stuff they use in new cars? 

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Hey guy, 

    About a year ago I converted my manual steering and factory suspension to Borgeson Power Steering with all Global West suspension. It's a rougher ride, but handles so much better. That's not the point. The point is the steering was so fast now that I couldn't feel the road at all. If I just tap the wheel it's going into the other lane. I've heard about this "Pressure Reduction Kit" you can do to slow down the steering, but everyone I asked said they don't know. Then I called some distributors and they said it's only for a R & P. I don't have a Rack. So, I said screw it I'm going to try it anyway. The kit is super straight forward. I only used 2 "shims" which reduced it from 1350psi to 1100psi and I LOVE IT! The steering is night and day so much better! I probably could've gone to 1000psi. My other car is an AMG, so I'm used to a tight sporty feel and this reduction kit got me closer to feeling like that! 

     

    I just wanted to share in case anyone else doesn't like how fast their Borgeson steering is and wants to tighten it up! If you need any pointers don't hesitate. If I'm giving super outdated info...I apologize. I've been under a rock for 2yrs (raising my Little One!). 

    mwye0627 and sixt9stang reacted to this

  15. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, cavboy78 said:

    The preload I was referring to was your front coilover springs. As you adjust the nut (around the shock) that the bottom of the spring rides on with your spanner wrench, it should move up or down depending on the direction you are turning. Preload is the amount of compression the spring is under while at normal ride height. At least that's what i'm referring too... My initial thought is that there is not enough preload on your spring.

    I could be completely wrong, but it's the rear where I'm feeling all the bounce. The front feels fine. I don't think the front would affect the rear would it? When I push down on the truck the rear ended springs up and bounces. 

  16. Posted · Report reply

    On 5/29/2017 at 2:10 PM, stangnet33 said:

    Yes whats your preload at and what are your spring rates ? What setting are the front vs the rear. I'm guessing no anti squat adjustments. So many variables when setting these up. Try 3c 5r for the street, found this to be a good starting point. Once dialed in they are a great shock. 

    So, I just found out the reverse eye leaf springs are 160 and I don't think they were preloaded which is the major problem. They were just tightened down. I'm away for work for the next month, so now I have something to look forward to when I get home! Preloading these shackles!

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Guys, I'm about to lose it! I got an entire suspension setup (just for street driving/daily driver) from global west which came with Double Adjustable Viking shocks and now my car is SO bouncy! I hate driving my car now! It looks so great and rides so terrible. I've tried so many different settings and none seem to be close to a normal ride. Right now I'm at 1C 4R and that's about the closest I've been, but I'm still boy confused so much on a road that seems pretty flat. I have 18" torque thrust 2's with meaty low pro Nittos. I got All Global West uca and lca, sway bar, frame rails, Shelby drop, Monte Carlo, Viking DA coilovers in front, reverse eye leafs w DA Vikings in rear....borgeson ps 

    if moreinfo is needed I'm glad to give it! Just PLEASE SOMEONE HELP!!! 

  25. Posted · Report reply

    So, I think Barnett and Rsanter will be pleased to know that I have dropped my ideas of welding in a new suspension. I still haven't made up my mind on how to improve my steering and suspension, but I know I want to switch to a front coilover kit, crossmember, sway bar, borgeson PS, new leafs in the rear etc etc. I would love to make my life alot easier and just go with one company to do the entire update. I spoke on the phone with Global West and really liked what the rep was explaining about their product. However, TCP has such an impact on the forums...

     

    So, is there a huge difference? It seems like they have the same setups just executed slightly different. My mind is still spinning on all of the components, but I do understand that when you cut out shock towers and weld in new components you're screwing up the entire geometry that the car is built on. 

     

    Global west vs. TCP anyone? 

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