barnett468

ok, put the one you just took out back but leave the other one in there. this should slow the timing down closer to where we had it. it has too much timing at 1500 also. hey...you could just run the single spring again, lol. .

ok, put the one you just took out back but leave the other one in there. this should slow the timing down closer to where we had it. it has too much timing at 1500 also. hey...you could just run the single spring again, lol. .

nope, unfortunately you are completely wrong. i have several questions you did not answer plus at the bottom of my post above, i suggested what to do. do NOT bend a post. .

nope, unfortunately you are completely wrong. i have several questions you did not answer plus at the bottom of my post above, i suggested what to do. do NOT bend a post. .

ok . . it ran perfect with my set up without the vacuum hose correct you change the springs and now you have a huge hesitation without the vacuum you connect the vacuum and your hesitation goes away first of all none of this makes sense so i need more info did you test it the same way before the spring change? EXACTLY under what condition does it hesitate? did you install the new vacuum can? if not what did you hook up where? you need to fix it so there is NO hesitation without the vacuum just like i had it. it sounds to me like you still have the pos dual port vac can and you connected the rear port to vacuum. heres my setting where it ran perfect. idle 12 1500 18 2000 21 2500 25 3000 30 3500 35 heres your setting with the new springs i that said would screw it up . . the 32 degrees at 2500 rpm must be screwing it up, just like i told you earlier it would . . the 18 at 1500 and 32 at 3000 are not a problem. 700 10 1000 10 1500 12 2000 22 2500 32 3000 32 3500 33 if your spring you just removed feels a bit stronger than the others you just installed, then remove one of the others and reinstall that one. are both then others the same size? .

ok . . it ran perfect with my set up without the vacuum hose correct you change the springs and now you have a huge hesitation without the vacuum you connect the vacuum and your hesitation goes away first of all none of this makes sense so i need more info did you test it the same way before the spring change? EXACTLY under what condition does it hesitate? did you install the new vacuum can? if not what did you hook up where? you need to fix it so there is NO hesitation without the vacuum just like i had it. it sounds to me like you still have the pos dual port vac can and you connected the rear port to vacuum. heres my setting where it ran perfect. idle 12 1500 18 2000 21 2500 25 3000 30 3500 35 heres your setting with the new springs i that said would screw it up . . the 32 degrees at 2500 rpm must be screwing it up, just like i told you earlier it would . . the 18 at 1500 and 32 at 3000 are not a problem. 700 10 1000 10 1500 12 2000 22 2500 32 3000 32 3500 33 if your spring you just removed feels a bit stronger than the others you just installed, then remove one of the others and reinstall that one. are both then others the same size? .

congrats, i'm glad you were brave, patient and trusting enough to attempt it, most people aren't . . you are now a master and actually know what most vintage car owners don't.

congrats, i'm glad you were brave, patient and trusting enough to attempt it, most people aren't . . you are now a master and actually know what most vintage car owners don't.

Well let us know what it does.

Well let us know what it does.

ok, this makes no sense unless your single spring was loose . . i asked you to check for this and check to see if there was any resistance when you tried to barely turn the rotor. you are only getting around 18 from your 25 slot.

ok, this makes no sense unless your single spring was loose . . i asked you to check for this and check to see if there was any resistance when you tried to barely turn the rotor. you are only getting around 18 from your 25 slot.

detonation sensor and auto timing adjust $595.00 http://jandssafeguard.com/NewUniversal/UniversalVersion.html

detonation sensor and auto timing adjust $595.00 http://jandssafeguard.com/NewUniversal/UniversalVersion.html

. from post 15. if your damper does not read high enough, just measure from 0 - 10 degrees and measure that amount at the end of your exosting scale and mark it with white out etc...

. from post 15. if your damper does not read high enough, just measure from 0 - 10 degrees and measure that amount at the end of your exosting scale and mark it with white out etc...

. One main reason it is better to drill the front plates instead of simply opening the secondaries to increase idle is because there is no idle circuit in the secondaries. It has been std practice to modify some carbs this way for st least 50 years that I know of. The following is an excerpt from Drag Race Magazine 2013. "When all idle mixture and throttle plate position adjustments are exhausted, we must move on to modification. …drill holes in the primary throttle plates. Holley recommends starting with a 3/32-inch bit drilling carefully into the mid-point between the center and the outer edge of the plate on the front half." http://www.dragracermag.com/solve-idle-dilemmas-without-misusing-throttle-plates/ .

. One main reason it is better to drill the front plates instead of simply opening the secondaries to increase idle is because there is no idle circuit in the secondaries. It has been std practice to modify some carbs this way for st least 50 years that I know of. The following is an excerpt from Drag Race Magazine 2013. "When all idle mixture and throttle plate position adjustments are exhausted, we must move on to modification. …drill holes in the primary throttle plates. Holley recommends starting with a 3/32-inch bit drilling carefully into the mid-point between the center and the outer edge of the plate on the front half." http://www.dragracermag.com/solve-idle-dilemmas-without-misusing-throttle-plates/ .

if you are running heat range 5 you can try the next colder plug. if your water temp is over 200, it will likely contribute to dieseling. .

if you are running heat range 5 you can try the next colder plug. if your water temp is over 200, it will likely contribute to dieseling. .

50 cc pumps won't make any difference for your dieseling problem. ethanol reduces detonation. if your dieseling is due to your cheap 87 octane gas the 93 will reduce it more than the. 91 will.

50 cc pumps won't make any difference for your dieseling problem. ethanol reduces detonation. if your dieseling is due to your cheap 87 octane gas the 93 will reduce it more than the. 91 will.

no test = no results if your rpm increases noticeably and the engine does not run rougher it is not dieseling. if increasing the timing reduces dieseling then simply reduce the mechanical advance in the distributor by the same amount you advance the timing then install 1 slightly stiffer spring on the advance to slow the curve down a bit . . very easy, very simple.

no test = no results if your rpm increases noticeably and the engine does not run rougher it is not dieseling. if increasing the timing reduces dieseling then simply reduce the mechanical advance in the distributor by the same amount you advance the timing then install 1 slightly stiffer spring on the advance to slow the curve down a bit . . very easy, very simple.

put your finger over the vacuum port on the passenger side of the carb . . if there is noticeable vacuum then your butterflies are too far open as mentioned. if this is the case, you can drill holes in the front plates or open the rear plates slightly and try that but because you will still be getting the same air flow i doubt it will change anything . if your rpm increase with more initial timing then advance the distributor and then you can close the plates more. . this will make it idle smoother and run cooler at idle and may reduce or eliminate the dieseling if lowering the gas level has no affect. .