Jump to content

larryc94

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    204

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by larryc94

  2. Posted · Report reply

    It takes two people, take an old screw driver and grind the end round, WD40 or similar lube (even soap).  While you insert have other person try to grab with pliers the outside to pull through.

    I actually installed 2 pads (don't ask) one from cj's and one from NPD.  Although the pads where similar the npd fasen might have been better or I became experience with those pins the second time.  I think I may have used some of the original which where best

  5. Posted · Report reply

    So it sounds like the park wire was lighting the turn filament (which is brighter) and the signal wire was lighting the park filament (which not as bright) and therefore when if the signal is flashing it won't be seen because the brighter filament is being lit by the park circuit.

    Don't know if there wired different, 69 and 70 sig/park lights are different part #'s

  6. Posted · Report reply

    9 minutes ago, Midlife said:

    In a 1970, both the front and side marker lamps use only two signal leads: running lights and turn signals.  When you say three wires from a two prong plug, this can be interpreted to mean 3 signal lines.  I believe what you are trying to describe are two leads, one of which has two wires of identical colors.

    The harness side for sig/park light in the valance has what Midlife describes as two same color  wires on the same pin and a single wire on the other

  12. Posted · Report reply

    That wiring diagram looks like it is for a 69.  The 70 is different, the side markers don't have  a ground to the body instead they are connected to the corresponding signal wire for that corner of the car.

    When the park-headlight are on the marker grounds through the signal filament.  When the signal is on the pulse interrupts the ground so  the side marker flashes . The signal and marker alternate.

    When park-headlights are off the and signal is on the side marker flashes at the same time the signal lamp does and grounds through the park filaments

     

    Larry

  15. Posted · Report reply

    You have to measure the master cylinder piston depth where the push rod sits to the flange where master bolts up then add about 0.001-0.002.

     

    I have a tool to take the measurement, one end fits in master and

     push to bottom out and other end rests against booster push rod and I look for a "crack of daylight" between push rod

     

    Larry

    IMG_0646.JPG

  17. Posted · Report reply

    3 hours ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

     

    If your idler is original to the car, it would be trash by now and you would need a new alignment person if he missed that and still did the alignment.  I don't think you need a roller idler arm for the way this car is being driven.  In my mind, that might be fine on a track car, but just another gimmick on a street driven car.

    The reason he needs a roller arm as opposed to a bushing is because of his non standard wheel package with wrong, back space and offset.  To get them to work he added 2" spacers. That  lets the wheel put a lot more stress on suspension  components (especially the idler arm)  causing it to toe out under driving 

    Chelby-Ann reacted to this

  18. Posted · Report reply

    With those 2" spacers and those wheels, the point where the load of the vehicle is transmitted is more towards the outside of the wheel.  The stock wheel is closer to the center.

    I think what it does is have more leverage by being further towards the outside.  You still haven't told us what type of idler arm you have but your setup like all front ends as you go forward it wants to toe out.  With the increase in leverage of you setup may require more toe in.  I'd start with a 1/4" and watch the tires like a hawk.

      I think your going to have to replace the tires to see.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Well in the previous links form Daze and open tracker have the new spec's.  Here what I use which pretty much the same camber -0.5*-0.7*, caster 2.0*-3.0*. Don't like to to go crazy with caster and stock lower arms by putting the lower control arm in a bind prematurely ruining the bushing and an 1/8" of toe.

    What concerns me is the offset of those wheels which seems to be 45mm and the stock wheel is about 25mm, almost an inch difference.

     

    You didn't state what idler arm you have, from the pictures it looks like a stock bushing type?

     

    Would be curious if your car was driven over a tire scuff gauge, it measures toe while moving.  Some shops have it as a selling tool to show your alignment is off.  What I like is it gives you an idea what toe is moving.  It could be fine sitting still but toe out while driving.

     

    With your wheels toe may have to set with more toe, maybe a 1/4"

     

    Larry

     

     

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Something doesn't make sense,  your before spec's don't relate to your tire wear. Those before spec's are in spec for '69 back in '69 for bias ply tires and wouldn't result in the tire wear you have. Even the  toe is not really off except the steering wheel is off center.

    The spec's for radial tires are much different as recommended as stated by prior posters in this thread.  If he aligned it to the modern radial tire alignment of -0.5* camber you wouldn't need shims.  You have virtually no caster, on a '69 or '70 shorten those strut bar's and get a min 2* of caster if not more.

     

    The guy that did your alignment did a great job if you had bias ply  tires and and we were back in 1969.  I use custom spec's or just adjust to the number's I want not paying attention to if it's red or green.  BTW that Hunter machine he used is a great machine and extremely accurate $40-50K with the rack

     

     There's something else  wrong.  I suspect your idler arm is flexing allowing toe out, or the offset of those wheels are positive and causing a problem.  Not sure what type of wheel that is.  Would be good to know the offset, width and backspace and if they require spacers 

     

    Not trying to "rain on your parade" but telling you like it is. I'm speaking from 47 yrs as a automotive professional and have done 100's of alignments 

     

    Larry

     

     

    RPM and JayEstes reacted to this
×
×
  • Create New...