foothilltom

Hey guys, my apologies in advance for posting a totally non-technical question here. I value the input of the folks here and would be grateful to hear your opinions on an issue I'm having with a long-time member of this forum. (I've already told the other party that I'd be willing to be bound by the collective wisdom of this group in our little disagreement). In a nutshell, I bought a used 69 console from a member here back in September. I paid around $300 including UPS insurance. The seller shipped the item in a timely fashion and was very helpful and cheerful through the whole process. Unfortunately, the console arrived totally destroyed. The plastic portion was shattered beyond all repair. The seller double-boxed the item (making an honest attempt to keep it safe in transit) but there was room for the console to shift around in the box. I'm no shipping expert, but this thing was obviously pretty fragile and required lots of support to keep it immobile. I'm also fairly sure our pals at UPS treated it with their usual disdain. I informed the seller (sent pictures and all) and he was as bummed as I was. As the shipper, he made a claim to UPS based on the insured full value. (UPS would not talk to me about the claim even though I paid for the insurance). UPS picked up the broken console from me and, weeks later, denied the claim. The seller appealed and was denied again. It's been about 2 months now. I have asked the seller to refund my $300 over time (half now, half after the holidays since money is tight). The seller's position is to "share" the cost with me as UPS is to blame for the damage in his opinion and won't accept responsibility. The seller is a nice guy and I really hate this situation. I obviously don't feel like I should have to pay $150 for nothing, but I'm willing to accept the wisdom of this forum since you probably all have experiences like mine. Thanks for your input. Again, apologies for airing this here, but the transaction began here so I figure it's appropriate to settle it here. Tom

Ah, ok. I had the same issue with my aluminum radiator I bought from Summit. It is too "thick" for the original top support (which is chrome and cool looking) so I just bolted it in on the sides and called it a day. Is it considered unstable to not have a top support (I don't think the smaller V-8s had a top support) or is it more a matter of aesthetics? Now I'm curious. If you find a support that works, please update this thread! Tom

How wide did you go? I'm assuming it's too wide to bolt in to radiator support frame on the sides?

Thanks, gents. After reading all this, it makes sense now. The little pistons that come out of the sides of the cylinders aren't moving at all. I see how this now makes the shoes move. They will definitely need replacing. I should have mentioned this before, but I did bleed the brakes a month or two back when i replaced the master cylinder and the fluid in there is new. The old fluid came out clear (but with tons of bubbles) so I'm hoping the lines can stay, but I might take that on too. I continue to learn every time I post here. Thanks all! Tom

Hey Gents, I'm trying to better understand how to inspect/adjust my brakes and I have a few dumb questions. (I'm looking at this as a learning experience and am happy to pay professionals to make my car stop if I don't feel like I can do this safely myself). This coupe has front disk, rear drums. I've replaced the master cylinder when the pedal wouldn't move at all. I did NOT replace the power booster though now I'm wondering if I should have. I've driven this thing maybe 30 miles since I've taken over, and it *does* stop, but the feel is not good and I figured I'd take a look. Removing the drum today, I see quite a bit of rust on the lining (it's not clean at all) which tells me the pads haven't been engaging for some time. I lightly sanded the lining and it's in great shape (no excessive wear) and was able to restore the dull, smooth sheen of the lining. The strange thing -- hence my question -- I don't see any movement at all in the brake pad mechanism when I press the pedal. Nothing. The pedal is really stiff w/out the car running (it's currently not in running state) and I'm wondering if the engine has to be running to see the pads move. Should I be able to see the pads moving by just pressing the pedal with the car off? I've loosened the bleeder screw and see that brake fluid comes out readily when i press the pedal (no bubbles). This car sat for 20+ years in storage, so would the brake cylinder go bad with time? Could the cylinder explain the total lack of movement? If I depress the parking brake, I see the system move easily. In short, I'm hoping for some basic tips here about what I *should* be able to see with the car off and what I might consider replacing first. I have my Mustang shop manual and have read it front and back, but it doesn't really discuss this. Thanks in advance as always. Tom

Thanks, Bryan. She's an M code, so it's the quad rolled tips for me!

I don't have an answer about "quality", but I can vouch for the relative crappiness of the trim I ordered from Virginia Mustang. At the end of the day, it works, but the fit wasn't super great nor is it very sturdy. Once it's on, it looks fine. Howze that for fence-sitting?

A hot/warm wire is not normal and should be investigated, if you axe me. It either means there is a high-resistance short or the wire is undersized for the current being drawn. I'd verify that this pink jobber is wired properly by consulting your wiring diagram. Given your various mysteries, I'd not ignore this kind of stuff. Sorry to hear about your wife! Man, a disc removed! Jeez.

Hi Ramon, sorry to be on the slow bus here, but are you saying that your headlights, interior lights, and dash lights are now working well when you activate your new headlamp switch (following the fuse replacement)? And you can dim the lights successfully as well? And furthermore, are you saying your new gremlins appear when introducing the turn signals? If so, I would encourage you to consider replacing your turn signal switch...the magical $99 part. Not only does it sound like your cam is broken (unable to stay locked in the right position), but it sounds like you may have a high-resistance short in that baby as well. This switch has 9 wires going through it that control far more than the turn signals. I replaced the switch in my boy's coupe to solve several electrical maladies. In my latest GT coupe project, my left rear (only) brake and signal light doesn't work and I've diagnosed it down to this switch (waiting to save some dough for parts). Interestingly, the PO attempted to partially solve this problem by jumping an extra wire from the left hood signal back to the trunk -- creating a little wiring mystery for me 23 years later. I think lots of our cars have mystery-wiring that was introduced by previous owners who probably didn't understand what would have been solved with a new TS switch. But I digress. If you go this route, be extremely careful when replacing the 9 wires that run down the column to the connector below the dash. Get one wrong and you'll have mysteries a plenty. I know first hand. I'll be doing another one here in a few weeks. Electrical problems are a bastard, but dang is it satisfying when you solve them! Good luck. Tom

I have a good feeling about your replacement fuse sorting out some of your issues. I don't know if I said this in this thread, but during my boy's resto-mod, we cured some problems by just replacing all the fuses (cleaning out the contacts in the fuse panel along the way). Just a thought. Best of luck. Tom

And HOLY CRAP are these expensive! :) Maybe this will have to wait...

That's them! Nice! Thanks a lot. Only need one, but i'm sure the others are tired and grimy. Thanks again. Tom

Hey guys, does anybody know the *name* of that black rubber/plastic cover-apron-gizmo that bolts to the inside the front fenders and covers the headlamp area? I'm missing one on my GT coupe restomod project and can't seem to locate it on any of the big Mustang sites...most likely because I don't know what the hell it's called. If anybody can identify it or post a link where one can buy it, that'd be super. Thanks! Tom

I can totally relate to your experience with mystery wiring. These 40 year old cars are like little time-capsules with a rich history of good and awful repairs along the way. That little ignition booster system you removed was probably some kid's weekend project back in 1973. Fun stuff. Except wiring problems...those suck. tom

Man, there are a lot of abbreviations in this game! DA? Is that some kind of sander? Not trying to be thick-headed, just want to keep up with the conversation to learn. Tom

2-part primers are just like a 2-part paint system: the 2nd part is a catalyst that makes the end product hard and tough. You mix the stuff just prior to application in the correct ratios. Obviously, rattle-cans don't qualify as 2-part as the mixture would harden in a matter of hours in the can.

I think the fellas covered it pretty well, but just to emphasize: If you're going to go through a long, wet winter before painting your car, you want to make sure your primer is corrosion/moisture resistant. Epoxy primers (2-part as 69again mentioned) are the way to go. If you go with something cheap, your panels will rust as it sits in your garage awaiting warm weather as those primers afford no protection against rust. I can see why you want to take advantage of your blaster, but you should rethink keeping your car in primer for too long awaiting paint. My $.02, Tom

I'll crack open my wiring diagram tomorrow and see if I have something intelligent to say. In the meantime, you're 100% sure you replaced all 9 wires correctly?

Agreed, and I don't think this eBay guy is suggesting that the originals were NOT rolled...he's just saying these replacements are not rolled. BTW, I think he's asking about $130 too much. Tom

Good question...I was wondering the same thing. There is a 69 GT coupe on eBay that has the correct "transverse" muffler arrangement so I'm guessing this is as close to stock as it might get: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Mustang-GT-1969-FORD-MUSTANG-GT-SUPER-RARE-1-OF-1-NO-MACH-BOSS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3ca6d99fbfQQitemZ260497317823QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks The pictures aren't super great for the exhaust, but it looks like they're nearly flush with the valance...poking out about an inch at most it seems.

Geez, belay the 2nd half of my request. I found a site that seems to carry the repro quad tips: http://www.trophymustang.com/196769-original-style-dual-exhaust-tips-p-3004.html?osCsid=836c2540627a7103fc62f1f66a38fb72 These tips from the Mach 1 I can get for cheaper, so if anybody knows if they are the same, I'm still happy to know. Tom

Howdy gents, am looking to restore this little GT coupe as close to stock as reasonable and I've got a line on some rolled quad tips from a 69 Mach 1 and am wondering if they are the same as what came on the GT's originally. If anybody knows or -- better yet -- knows where I could buy said tips, I would be most grateful. Thanks! Tom

Hey guys, am wondering what the "half life" of headers are and whether I should replace the headers on my GT coupe restomod project. The headers are at least 23 years old as the car was stored at that point. They have quite a bit of surface rust that has seeped through what appears to be light-blue paint. I can't tell if the headers are high quality or not. They are NOT ceramic or anodized...just blue painted metal. I think they are considered "long pipes" based on the shorties I put on my boy's coupe. I'm not looking for ways to spend money, but I am going to be getting 2.5" exhaust installed soon (new mufflers and chrome tips) and want to be sure it makes sense to bolt these on to the existing headers. I guess in short, how would one know when headers are tired and ready for the happy hunting ground? Thanks, Tom

Not knowing there *was* a special tool, I used a precision screw-driver (about the width of a paper clip!) and was able to coax each wire out as Resto describes. Fair warning: be very careful to match up the colors carefully! I had reversed two and all hell broke loose. Good luck! Any reason why you didn't just buy the cam? Tom

Yeah, I think you're on to something there. I always thought it was odd that the parking lamps went out in the headlight position. I probably won't make the time to investigate it, but if you do, please post the wiring magic! Tom