jerry69

OK thanks, I try it tomorrow and post back.... Jerry69

Since no posted a reply, I'll add this picture of the 3 items involved... Where does the black plate go and what position... Maybe someone has run into this before.... Jerry69

During replacing my radio the cover and lens for the fan and heat controls popped off. I can see how the lens fits in to the cover but the "L" black piece of metal I'm lost.... Does anyone know where and how this piece fits in? Thanks Jerry69

Automatic or manual transmission? If automatic "neutral bypass" switch could be a your problem....

There are 2 "single wires" going from the firewall that female plugs... 1. Green wire (no stripe) from firewall to the AC Compressor 2. White with red stripe from firewall to shifter single male connector... Your single female plugs come out from the firewall about 6"....

Ya you got that right.... Glad you got it all working...

According to the wiring diagram.... http://midlife66.com/wiring/wiring.html . It's a Green/Yellow wire that runs from the headlight switch to a "T" on the left side... One end of the "T" goes to the fuse box and the other end of the "T" should go directly to the back in the trunk with no breaks in the line. I don't see the wire in my trunk on my coupe so my guess there might be a connection inside the car on the left side where that "T" is ???... maybe someone who has one will know.

I went over my radio notes and the Blue/Red is Positive hot when the headlight switch is out and on. The Yellow/Black is Positive hot when the ignition or accessory switch is on. So the "original radio" the internal radio light only comes on when the headlight switch is out. Otherwise the Yellow/Black wire only works when the ignition switch is on or in accessory mode. The problem with aftermarket radios they need that 12 volts direct battery feed for memory and the second wire "Switched" for radio on and off..... Hope this helps...

Ok so you have a strong battery, so lets say ok to that. So two questions. 1. When you replaced the ignition switch did you replace the whole unit or did you replace only the part where the wires connect to and your still using the same tumblers and key switch, that could still cause a problem, replace the key and tumbler. 2. What's the condition of your battery cables? If your old battery was leaking in any way the corrosion will travel up the wire from the battery and will start turning black and corrode preventing high current from reaching your starting components. I'm thinking #1.

You might try to disconnect the 12 volt positive + to it...make sure your alarm is not set, that it is off.... Then see if you run into the same problem. I have seen an alarm system drain a battery in about 12 hours just from the alarm failing inside.... Try disconnecting the hot 12 volts and see if your battery voltage stays up...

With a volt/ohm meter check the voltage of the battery after you drive the car, and again before you start it on you drive home from work or in the morning take another voltage reading....if it's lower you could have a short.... If you do see lower voltage what is it? If the voltage is lower do you by chance have an alarm system installed?

Yes thanks Mike, I'm going to check it all out... Our car show season is done for the season so now I'll have the time to work on my 69... Thanks again for the help.. Jerry69

Jmlay I looked at that and it seems pretty interesting.... I haven't decided to if I want to keep the car or sell it.... but I'm in no hurry either way.... Jerry69

You can get free Mustang wiring diagrams at http://www.themustangshop.com/resources.cfm

Very nice article. I'm planning to just order the replacement rubber and keep it stock with American metal. I'm just tired of getting ripped off with Chinese parts that's cheap and don't last... Thanks Pakrat, I had been wondering what kind of spring compressor to use, so the article answered that to.... Thanks again to everyone who responded...Jerry69

Thanks for the help, looks like I better get started... Thanks Jerry69

Thanks Mikem, I went to Vinginia Mustang's website and found the whole unit, is it better to replace the whole unit or does someone just sell the rubber bushings? It would be interesting to find someone who has installed the roller bearing ones and see how they like them and maybe where to buy them... Jerry69

Hi everyone, I've been hearing a loud bang on the left front side and found the problem.. Can someone walk me through on replacing the rubber bushing, will I have to compress the spring or what is the best way to do the job. What is this rubbering bushing called, so I can order the correct part? All the other rubber had been replaced already by the old owner. Thanks Jerry69

Thanks for all the answers, looks like I might as well buy a new rear view mirror ir look around for an NOS.... thanks again for the help jerry69

Agree with bnickel, your problem is most likely the turn signal switch... The stop light switch route through the turn signal switch before going to the brake lights... If you need a wiring diagram this website has it for the 69 mustang... http://midlife66.com/wiring/wiring.html

Does anyone know of a source for a replacement mirror for the rear view mirror on a 69 coupe. My rear view mirror became un-glued and drop on the shifter and and cracked the mirror..... I don't want to buy a new unit I just want to buy the replacement glass..... Thanks in advance Jerry69

If you need to wire the car for towing, in the trunk on the left side are 2 wiring plugs, You can splice into the wires there, .... The wire colors as follows. Green / Orange = Left turn signal and brake light Orange / Blue = Right turn signal and brake light Black = Running lights Note: If you try to splice in near the tail lights, there are black wires that are grounds.... use the wires where the plugs are.... For a ground there is a wire near the filler tube inside the trunk. .

If you need to wire the car for towing, in the trunk on the left side are 2 wiring plugs, You can splice into the wires there, .... The wire colors as follows. Green / Orange = Left turn signal and brake light Orange / Blue = Right turn signal and brake light Black = Running lights Note: If you try to splice in near the tail lights, there are black wires that are grounds.... use the wires where the plugs are.... For a ground there is a wire near the filler tube inside the trunk. .

Before going through anymore headachs I'd sure find someone with one of those lazer temp readers and take some readings before going any further, like I said could be a bad temp sending unit, if it's an electric sending unit and gauge good chance it has failed... I see it all the time.

Before going through anymore headachs I'd sure find someone with one of those lazer temp readers and take some readings before going any further, like I said could be a bad temp sending unit, if it's an electric sending unit and gauge good chance it has failed... I see it all the time.