1969Fstback
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Posts posted by 1969Fstback
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Yep umbrella. One on right is the new one and fits the crown on the head perfectly, the middle is old off the intake, one on left is old off exhaust valve.
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I have the original 302 and it smokes a ton on start up and burns oil. I started changing the valve stem seals over the weekend. I pulled of the intake valve one and compared it to what I ordered. The one I pulled off the car has a inner diameter of 3/4 on the base and 5/8 inch tall and fits horribly. No doubt the wrong ones. The exhaust valve had even a different size. IT has a base ID of closer to 7/8 and was only 3/8 tall where as the ones I ordered that fit well have a 5/8 ID at base and 1/2 inch tall.
I received my cylinder leakage tester today. I am going to check all the cylinders then do a compression test on all after I get it all back together. My question is, other than on start up, how or what other issues would having valve stem seals that far off cause? Would it cause oil to be burnt while driving vs just on start up?
My gut tells me that the old motor is probably just pretty worn and I will find that out with the leak down tests and or compression tests. The plan would be to figure out this summer what I want to do motor wise then pull it beginning of next fall.
thanks
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Probably not your issue, but. I put all new suspension under mine and really started driving it this year. Every corner, bump I'd get a loud squeak from the driver side. Thought it was the suspension. My issue was I either forgot to put in the fender bolt by the door hinge or it fell out. The fender was rubber the cowl cover.
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It's 10w 40. I was thinking it was 185 but very well could be 180. My temp gauge has 160 and 190 numbered with hash mark at 175 it holds closer to the 190 hash then 175. The temp could be a little over 200 in traffic, bUT don't remember it ever reaching the 205 hash mark.
I was under the car recently. It was a little wet near rear main, but I didn't see any blow back of oil underneath and I've never seen a puddle or anything left after it sits and runs. And never any on the garage floor. But, I plan on checking again since I've been driving it a lot over past 2 months.
I agree, I am guessing when I pull plugs a few will look very black. I changed them about 2 months ago after i put a new carb on.
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I am pretty sure I used Castrol 40W. I have 185 thermostat, but on hot days in traffic it creeps up to 200. I plan on pulling plugs this week.
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The exhaust is one of those went from long tube to shorty temporary deals that turn down at the rear axle. With that said you get some exhaust in the car. When you get out your shirt smells like you have been running a chainsaw for 5 hrs.
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It does have baffle for the pcv valve in the valve cover. I pulled the pcv and the hose off. I have a T in middle of hose to carb as a connector with the leg blocked. The T is white and it was coated with oil on the inside. I had it in between the full and add line Thursday. I put arox. 150 miles on it and it was below the add line a little when I checked it this evening. So in 150 mIles it burn at least a qrt. It doesn't really seem to smoke much. But you can smell the oil in the exhaust.
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I've had the car for 6 years. Just got it to point of being able to drive it. It's burning oil at a pretty good clip. Don't know ton about motor. 302 2v now has 4 barrel. Where do I start on determining the reason?
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On 5/25/2018 at 12:29 AM, barnett468 said:I'm insanely busy right now but one simple test you can try which won't cure the problem but it might help a little is the following.
IGNITION TIMING
1. remove the vacuum advance and leave it off until further notice.
2. get the engine up to operating temp.
3. see if there is any vacuum at the ported vacuum port on the carb.
No vacuum on meter at idle.
Quote4. advance the timing 3 degrees and see if the rpm increases and if the engine still runs smooth.
Increased decent amount and ran smooth and started easily.
5. lower the timing back to where it was.
6. rev the engine to around 2000 - 2500 rpm then rotate the distributor clockwise slightly and see if the rpm increases.
Yes some.
7. lower the rpm to the previous setting and post results.
FUEL MIX SCREWS
Turn the idle up to around 1400 rpm.
Turn 1 screw out 1/2 turn and see if the rpm changes.
Turn the same screw in 1 turn and see if the rpm changes.
Turn the same screw out 1/2 turn and see if the rpm changes.
Do the same thing to the other screw then post results.
My answer for timing are in twined in your post.
Primary idle mix screws made no difference screwing in or out. Secondary turning either in increased idle.
Thanks
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3 minutes ago, barnett468 said:I'm insanely busy right now but one simple test you can try which won't cure the problem but it might help a little is the following.
IGNITION TIMING
1. remove the vacuum advance and leave it off until further notice.
2. get the engine up to operating temp.
3. see if there is any vacuum at the ported vacuum port on the carb.
4. advance the timing 3 degrees and see if the rpm increases and if the engine still runs smooth.
5. lower the timing back to where it was.
6. rev the engine to around 2000 - 2500 rpm then rotate the distributor clockwise slightly and see if the rpm increases.
7. lower the rpm to the previous setting and post results.
FUEL MIX SCREWS
Turn the idle up to around 1400 rpm.
Turn 1 screw out 1/2 turn and see if the rpm changes.
Turn the same screw in 1 turn and see if the rpm changes.
Turn the same screw out 1/2 turn and see if the rpm changes.
Do the same thing to the other screw then post results.
Will do. Thanks
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3 minutes ago, barnett468 said:It is NOT common to have to need to change the pump nozzle size on a holley . i have jetted hundreds of holley carbs in the last 45 years and NEVER once had to change a nozzle.
If you change the pump nozzle, i will leave it for others to try and help you.
I was thinking the same thing on the jets. From what I read on holley's website and other places they 570 normally came with 54 primary and 65 secondary. Mine had 64 primary and 68 secondary. I know my secondarys are 64 cause I moved the front to the back. and fronts I am pretty sure is 58's. It's still a tad rich, but not near what it was. I was pretty familiar with how to adjust the cams, but wasn't aware of the nozzle til recent research. But, having it come with the larger jets then what was specified on the site I am starting to wonder what the nozzle size actually is. I have no idea what stream size of volume a nozzle should spray, but I was surprised at how thick the stream was that came out. But like I said, nothing to compare that too.
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17 minutes ago, 1969_Mach1 said:Be certain your throttle plates are in the correct position at idle. At idle about 0.020" to 0.060" of the two transfer slots should be exposed below the primary throttle plates.
I actually did check those when I was fighting it being rich. I should probably pull the carb and verify the slot is still correct. From what I gathered the slot should look square when set properly.
My cam looks more red then pink right now. I was gonna pull the nozzle tomorrow and verify which size it is once I got some good guidance from this thread.
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I set the fuel mix screws with vacuum gauge.
Power valve is not stock but is a 6.5. It's probably year or so old.
Yes I did change the jets. It was running 64's up front and 68's in back out of the box. and was extremely rich. I am now running, if memory serves me, 60's(maybe 58's) think I still have the package, up front 64's in back.
I set ignition using light. at 10 degrees. with advance unplugged. But yeah mostly by ear. distributor is using metered vacuum. explain the process using vacuum gauge and tach and I'll reset it how every you say.
Carb has site glasses and primary and secondary are both right at bottom.
thanks
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No I did not. I will readjust it tomorrow using that technique.
thanks
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Ha that's what my wife says when It try to explain something to her. Bog probably not the best word. stumble is more appropriate.
Ok, so, idles great, put it in gear take off normal no issues runs good. At 40 or so if you are accelerating and floor it it picks up and goes fine. If you are running 40 and let off of it and let it coast for a few seconds and get into it hard it will stumble for a second then pick up and take off fine. if you are sitting park and floor it from dead idle it stumbles for a split second and takes off fine. If in park and you have the throttle down a bit around 1200 rpms and floor it it picks up fine.
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Car has original 302 2v but with 2 year old holley 570 street avenger. Not sure on specs of motor. By ear sounds like small cam. Car runs great except for kicking it down from idle. It bogs a bit. You can smell fuel when it does for split second. I adjusted the arm and it seems correct. You touch the throttle and it starts to squirt. The nozzle shoots out 2 thick streams fast. I haven't pulled the nozzle yet to get the size, but it almost seems to much too fast.
Next steps?
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Yeah luckily I saw the tab on the back if the panel and read about it a little before hand.
But thanks for the heads up.
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Much appreciated Brian. I figured out it was the skin only from your pic.
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I got tmi panels. Does the fiber board part tuck under or just the overhang skin?
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What holds top part of the sail panel near the back glass?
Thanks
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And lets be honest. Is there anyone who really does not NEED another project? I have 4. My 69 Fastback an 1 for each of my 3 kids. Five if you count the bass boat my wife inherited from her dad.
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That would be a fun project. I like the old pintos.
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The volume of guns in this country hasn't changed a lot over the past 30 years. Guns are no easier to access then they were in the 80's or 70's. I grew up with guns in the house. Had easy access to them. Never once thought about going to a school and shooting things up. Wasn't uncommon to see a rifle or shotgun in the back window of dads truck or a dozen others. What has changed is how children are raised. What we have is a mental health crisis in our youth. Blame it on violent video games, lack of parenting, single parents who are doing best they can, divorce, raising kids to be gender neutral, promoting and supporting 10 year old children to change genders, the list goes on. The existence of an AR15 isn't making these young men decide to go shoot up a school. You remove the AR15 and they will grab a double stack 9mm with ext mag and still get 18 rnds that is easier to conceal or even worse a 5 minute google search and with way less money then an AR cost and you can make homemade bombs. The arguing over guns from both sides is pointless. It will resolve nothing. And it's nothing more then a power struggle between republicans and democrats. Neither side care. If they did they would work together on the problem(mental health) and not the symptom(school shootings).
Drunk drivers kill more people then guns taking out suicides. No one is chanting lets get rid of booze. Why, too much tax dollars generated from the sale of booze. Neither side wants to be responsible for losing that much money.
I am PRO gun all the way. However, if I thought for 1 second, banning AR's would end all school shootings I would be all for it.
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Try again. I was probably at my limit. I went in and deleted a bunch.
Valve stem seal questions
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
I just went out did a leakage test on the passenger side. Granted it was cold and I know it makes a difference, however, at 80 psi input front 2 were mid 30s. Plugs black. 3rd back plug looked good and it was holding 75 out of 80. The back cylinder was 60 out of 80 and plug was not as black as front 2, but blacker then the 3rd. So, I guess that tells me all I need to know unless someone much wiser tells me heating it up would make that much difference in the front 2?