69_Mustang

Yeah, probably not ideal. At least without a fully built motor.

Other than these guys: http://www.araoengineering.com Anything else available? I'd imagine with 32 valves total, the intake and exhaust would benefit a ton with the right supporting mods. So, why don't we use any 4 valve heads?

How do you remove the front and rear bumper? Anyone know!

I have my carb up for sale. I'm unsure of the exact mode, since it came on the car. I believe it's a 600 CFM Holley carb. I have the list numbers pictured here. More pics: There's nothing wrong with it, I just want to upgrade to a 700 or 750 CFM carb. First step is to sell this! Asking $175.00 OBO Adam

I'm running Crager wheels... not sure of any of the specs other than they're 15" wheels.

Sick!

Let's see those pictures of your wheels! ---------------------------------------------------------------------- I'm thinking of running these, with an aggressive stance: Reminds me of the Harbinger Mustang by Agent 47.

I'm in that area. I'll see what I can find, there has to be somebody.

Have an idea. Get some 1/8" lexan, shape it to the rear quarter window, make it so its mounted nice and strong at the bottom between where the window rolls up, then take black silicone and line it around the edges to seal any water to get in. Hopefully that makes sense, without an visual aids. I'd imagine, with the glass and all the mounting hardware should drop some significant weight for a relatively inexpensive price.

I know friends who have converted to E85 for more power in other cars. Typically you just need to push more fuel; for their cars that meant higher flowing fuel pump and bigger injectors. For our cars, we don't need all that. So really, I'm thinking all we would need are some good fuel lines (fresh) and a retuned carb to deliver more fuel. Has anyone here done that?

Ended up going with the SD 7 qt aluminum T pan, ford racing rubber gasket, FORD RACING' SLANT EDGE VALVE COVER in BLACK CRINKLE, ford racing valve cover gasket, ford racing valve cover breather and black ford valve cover bolts.

Mine is leaking, a lot, and I'm looking to upgrade since I need a new pan and all. I was looking at the Scott Stake aluminum T oil pan that holds 7 qts. While I'm there is there anything else you all recommend? Along with it I'll get the 351w bolt kit and ford racing rubber gasket. Does Scott Stake offer any baffles for their pans? Should I upgrade the oil pump too? Basically, if I'm there, what is all I should upgrade? I also have little leaks on the head covers, previous owner used cork. Anyone recommend a certain gasket? Any other advice on parts as far as the oil system goes? Adam

As well as a steering box? Mine are going bad and might as well replace those parts all at the same time.

Nice. Should make an entire stereo/ac and heater delete plate :)

I have a 4 core aluminum rad with a zirgo 3600 CFM fan. I'll also be going to a 7 qt oil pan and adding an oil cooler. I might even add a pusher fan as well. We will see, just depends where I mount the oil cooler. That should all keep temps down pretty well.

I'll be going with street or tracks setup. It's proven and not priced too bad. I definitely want function out of the car.

Good question. I was reading some of street or tracks threads on vmf and they have a system where it doesn't need to be connected underneath the car. I didn't ask much about it, but that's how they run,their cars. I'm hoping that I can copy/ get the stuff from them and do it their style.

Underside of the new exhaust made by Richards Performance Muffler (RPM): Front pic with the lip:

Thanks for the info! I guess I can always use balasts to help with weight to meet a certain class, if I do that. Little update, kinda. Rolling and pulling the fenders next week. Once I do they, i want to see how much room it will giveme and I mightrun Spacers temporarily until I get new wider wheels.

Thanks, its slowly all coming together. Probably take a break after the custom exhaust and headers. Should be pretty fun to drive after that.

Dropped a total of 152 lbs so far. That's not counting the weight saved from the aluminum march u/d serpentine kit and aluminum radiator. Battery relocated No more blower/ hearer core Engine bay now

10w60 is what we HAD to use in the E46 M3. It's a very good oil. Looking like anywhere from 5w40 to 10w60 is ok to use in these engines? Any ideal weight? I have a stock internal 351w.

Where can I find a set of lexan windows for the 69 stang coupe? I had done this on my previous car, rear side and rear window. Dropped about 25 lbs from high on the car, where the weight matters for road racing. I'm wondering, since the door windows are roll up, if I could do all side and rear windows. I'd imagine it would drop close to 40 lbs, total. Being that the door windows roll up and down with glass, I'd imagine with some 3/8" lexan windows, formed to the same size, should work. Then the the other windows would be similar. I also plan on getting fiberglass hood, fenders and trunk to drop more weight, without attacking anything crazy. I would hope all that would also drop around 50 lbs or more. With this I want to convert the front end to a coilover setup. The one where they shave the strut towers and weld the rest in. I believe the kit is about 2600. Then of course match the rear with a coilover type system (1600 is what I saw that priced at). http://rcmotorsportsinc.com/ From what I've read, the car sits at about 3220 lbs stock. If I can drop to about 2900 lbs and still have a full interior, I'd be happy with that. Anywhere else we can drop weight? Remember... every 10 lbs is like "adding" 1 WHP. Any experience with lexan windows? Or anything else mentioned here?

Awesome, I'll try that out. I might just take it in, because I kinda need my car to work. Lol.

Is this what I need: http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/100022594.html