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69basketcase

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About 69basketcase

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 05/05/1981

Converted

  • Location
    SC
  • Occupation
    Engineer
  1. Our project has taken a bit of a turn from the original idea and we are now going to build a "pro-touringISH" car. Motor has been purchased and will be revealed later in the build :001_cool:. Does anybody have any experience with TCI's IFS kit or their 3 link rear? I've read mixed reviews on different forums. I worry about the fitment of the rear because I am really not happy with the quality of our rear frame rails.
  2. I'm fairly new to this so definitely listen to folks with more experience but I can tell you that using Dynacorn parts are well worth the extra $ (maybe not buying a whole shell...). We have literally replaced every piece of sheetmetal on this car except for the roof and firewall. Dynacorn parts required very little mods, if any, to fit. "other" name brand pieces did not fit at all.
  3. where are you located in S.C. ? I am in Anderson

    1. Mach1 Driver

      Mach1 Driver

      Mach1 Driver

      I You've done an amazing amount of quality work to bring one of the lost ones back. I enjoy all the pictures.

  4. where are you located in S.C. ? I am in Anderson

  5. where are you located in S.C. ? I am in Anderson

  6. Just thought I would provide an update to our project. Using the drawing provided by MustangChuck, we fabricated a jig for the car to sit on. It uses machined pins to locate the front frame rails/torque boxes and the rear frame rails/torque boxes. The car was then clamped to the jig at the pinch welds. The rear section of the jig is removable and locates using pins. We did this so the rear frame rails and trunk floor could be installed. Why in the world Dynacorn makes frame rails and torque boxes for the 69 fastback, but does not sell them individually to the public is beyond me... We were forced to use Mr. Mustang frame rails and torque boxes and their quality is lacking (to put it politely). All that said, the entire car has been disassembled, sandblasted, and sprayed in epoxy primer. We have replaced the battery apron, radiator support, rear driver side apron, driver side outer cowl panel, toe boards, one piece floor pan, one piece trunk pan, doors, quarter panels, trunk corners, outer wheel houses, and deck lid. I guess it would be easier to say that we have reused the roof, firewall, and B pillars (even though they probably should be replaced...).
  7. What is the general consensus on the Dynacorn 1 piece pan? About the same as all the others?
  8. Certainly appreciate it! Attached a few pics of the project so far.
  9. Good morning folks, Proud new owner of quite possibly the most rotten 69 Mach 1 in the south. I bought this car as a project to do with my father (who has leukemia), as the 69 has always been one of his favorite cars. I have always been a Jeep guy and have built a couple rock crawlers as well as restored a few classic CJ's, but this will be a first for me. Fortunately, the previous owner spent years collecting most of the parts. I have all new Dynacorn sheetmetal for 90% of the car as well as a lot of the hard to find original parts. Only pieces I am lacking are motor/trans, console, and rim blow steering wheel. The car was originally a Dark Jade Metallic, M-code 351W, 4-spd but the original motor and trans are long gone. I realize the purists are going to flame me, but the goal for this project is to do a 428CJ, 4 spd, clone in Acapulco Blue (as that is what the old man wants). The car will not be numbers matching regardless, so I don't see installing a 428 as blasphemy as long as I do it right. I have the car stripped, catalogued, and the front half has been sandblasted. My questions are as follows: 1. I am replacing the front battery apron, rear driverside apron, and radiator support. According to my measurements (from the inner fender/cowl bracket to the radiator support), the front end is roughly 1/8" to 1/4" out of square. What do my measurements need to be? I was going to use the 3 bolt holes on the shock tower to line up the battery apron and square the radiator support to the original side before I removed the rear driver side apron. Does this seem reasonable? 2. I have a one piece trunk trunk pan and shock crossmember to install. The passenger side rear frame rail and torque box seem to be in decent shape (just surface rust from what I can see). The driverside rear torque box seems ok, but the frame rail is tweaked from a long ago accident. My plan was to drop the entire trunk, frame rails, and torque boxes as one assembly and use them to take measurements to fab up the new trunk floor with new rails and boxes and then install the whole thing as one assembly. The new rear quarters and tail panel would then be fit to this after it has been properly fit to the original panels. The rear of the body would be braced and supported accordingly. How is the fitment of the dynacorn boxes and frame rails? Is this plan reasonable or is there a better way? I apologize for the above novel. I just wanted to ask the experts. I am not a novice by any means when it comes to fabrication, I just have never worked on a unibody Mustang before. I certainly appreciate any feedback. Thanks!!!
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