ksquared

Thanks Linden. That's a relief. This project is becoming a project if ya know what I mean!

Ansen is long out of business. I think the block plate is needed to hold the starter in alignment with the ring gear but I'm not sure.

My 69 was originally a 290hp 351W but soon to be a 428 (not soon enough). My original radiator is a 20" wide unit. My "belief" is that the 428 will need a larger 24" wide radiator. Does this mean I need a whole different support panel? If so, is it a bolt in item or is welding needed? Perhaps another option is to use a higher efficiency aluminum 20" unit & retain my existing support panel?

Also called a separator plate. I'm guessing yes. I'm using an Ansen scatter shield.

Right now I'm looking at .006 to .007 clearance which is a lot for the street. I'm going to have the skirt area heavily coated by PolyDyn. Should take up a thou or two.

There is a number inside the piston which is 211-98. The pistons are 4.155 inches. That's all the info I have other than they were bought back in the early 80's or late 70's.

Anybody remember what the piston to bore clearance is supposed to be with the old TRW forged pistons? These pistons are from the early 80's. I don't have any paperwork with them.

It's a 3M product. Something like contact paper. I assume it is vinyl. It looks very good. I was going to have him do my new door skins but his stuff looks very close to them in color & texture so I decided not to do them. As for price, it's probably best you ask him.

Well, a local guy I found did a great job restoring my wood grain bezels. Click the link to see a before/after picture. http://www.nostalgickitscentral.com/mustang/bezel/before_after1.jpg He also did the right side. I don't have a before on it but here is the after: http://www.nostalgickitscentral.com/mustang/bezel/after2.jpg The right side picture was taken with a flash so the color looks different. They are actually identical in color.:thumbup1: If interested, the shop that did the work is: http://www.timsgarageaz.com I'm a happy customer:smile:

An aftermarket option is a kit from Spal. I put a set in my 1975 Bronco and they work great. I also installed their remote door locks. My Bronco keeps getting more & more civilized. I think they would work in the Mustang. http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.aspx?p=CategoryBody&c=PWWI

Perhaps you don't have the correct flare on the pipe ends going into the valve? If not, it'll leak like crazy. There are a number of different flare types. Don't know what your valve needs but some examples are here: http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/common%20flares6.pdf

Yes, I think that's the website. For some reason, I don't remember those price$! Yipe$!!:scared:

I give up. Thought I had a source bookmarked. Probably do but I can't find it. Instead of going with a shaker, I kind of like the intake in the linked picture. Problem is I don't know what it is nor do I know what the car is (I know it's a Ford). Last year, I found a website that sold repro shakers & maybe this one. My scoop is the standard Mach I non-functional one with the turn signal lights. I like the scoop but I also like cold air intake. http://www.nostalgickitscentral.com/mustang/images/both.jpg

Just to be complete on this subject: the Jegs item 555-80683 is a pushrod length checker tool with ball/ball ends. A 3/8 cup tip is available under part number 555-80673. The overall length range is 9 to 10.170 inches which should work for the FE. Summit or others may have something similar, I don't know. BTW the wording on the Jegs website for the above items is misleading as it describes a master kit item 555-80670 which is neat but quite a bit more expen$ive. Of course there is the DIY approach...

Looks like the Spectre part has the air cleaners in the wheel wells? Wouldn't that be a rather dirty environment for them - especially in rainy weather?

I just learned from another list that Jegs has item 555-80683 for $11.99 that looks like it should do the trick.

Thanks for the link. Never heard of them.:thumbup1:

So far, I haven't been able to find a push rod length checking tool for my 428 FE. Looking for one with a ball on one end and a cup on the other. I think the range should be around 9.25 to 10.25 inches long. No luck with Summint or Jegs. My local speed shop found nothing. Anyone have a source for such a tool?

By chance, I found a guy locally (Tempe, AZ) who has restored the wood grain bezel. I saw his work. It looked good. I'll post a picture when done. Might be a week or two.

Hmm - it looks like the 70 bezel is different than the 69 one. The 70 has a curved relief for the steering column while my 69 has none.

You mean item 261030146385 for $399.99? Yipes!!:scared:

Here is a picture of what I have. It looks like the wood finish is some kind of veneer applied over the metal frame. http://www.nostalgickitscentral.com/mustang/bezel/view1a.jpg

Any ideas? The wood grain is looking shabby. The restoration shop I'm working with does not have a line on restoring it. They have suggested a plain black bezel which is available from Scott Drake. Problem is all the rest of my interior is wood grain. The original looks almost like contact paper or plastic. Anyone been there/done that?

Did a little checking today and learned that a 2 row radiator is fairly common for this car. Maybe my 3 row is up for the job. Gonna check with a local radiator expert.

I'm not sure exactly how the gauges work on a Mustang. I don't have any schematics handy right now. I am familiar with some other types of cars (i.e. Lotus). The gauges I know about are designed to work from a regulated 10 volts. If the regulator fails full on, the temp gauge can indicate 20-30 degrees high. The gauge will actually vary depending on the alternator output. On my Lotus, the instrument regulator is under the dash. Anybody know where I can find a 69 schematic?