MustangGT

Midlife -- I just pulled all the bulbs (didn't pull the hood mounted turn signal ones) still no joy. I did try disconnecting the hood mounted harness and that had no affect either. Looks like I will be pulling the pad and looking in the car. For giggles I also swapped in another steering column w/ harness to troubleshoot the steering column switch -- results were the same which tells me my column switch should be good.

Before the weather started getting warmer so I could continue more troubleshooting I took the car back to body shop and gave them a chance to find/fix the problem. This ended up being a bust -- they said they couldn't find anything and once again reassured me that all they did was to splice in the new socket. I double-checked their splice before taking it back to them so I knew that wasn't the problem. Now that the weather is warmer I have decided the start the troubleshooting up again - need to get the car ready for the '18 HRPT. I have double/triple checked the under hood harness and can't find anything obvious. I am back to thinking the tech(s) at the shop might have ripped out one of the under dash harness ground connections - as I mentioned in my initial post they had to run a new antenna wire. I peaked at the different manuals I can really only see only one ground wire on the under dash harness - is that correct? I want to get an idea on what I need to be on the look out for before I pull the dashpad (what a joy that is) off to further investigate. Like 69RanvenConv said in the above post "... electrical problems can be the worst!". So I am open to suggestions. 32 days and counting before I am supposed to head out.

Right now, with the flashers on and the brake pressed all blinking stops - tail lights, front signals, and hood. The maker lights don't blink at any time. The shop "only" replaced the drivers side outside marker light and spliced-in a new socket. They used 7.234 miles of electric tape to wrap the wires 2 of them coming out of the side marker light socket (just like on the unmolested passenger side marker light). When the weather clears up I will pull car out and rip off the tape to trace the wires from the socket to wherever they end up. Given that the original socket/wire was ripped out and there were only two wires for them to attach two I can't understand how they could have messed it up. But given some of my other recent findings from their work I guess anything is possible. If, they somehow "switched" the wires coming out of the side marker light socket going into the harness wouldn't that prevent the light from functioning? My thought has been that if they crossed the wires the light wouldn't function.

The lights behave normally with regard to the switch. When pulled to the first position the lower front lights are on as well as the marker lights on the left & right and rear (along with the tail lights). When pulled out all the way the lower lights go out and all of the other lights remain on. Regardless of light switch position the flashers work as expected - lower front lights blink. The flashers work regardless of ignition switch position (as expected). The signal power wire going into the turn signal flasher unit doesn't get power unless key is turned and the turn signal is moved up/down. As I running the tests above this evening I noticed something I couldn't see in the daylight yesterday. The hood signal indicator illuminates but very dim and it doesn't blink. If I switch move the lever for a left/right the hood indicator lights up (dim) but doesn't blink. This behavior happens regardless of the position (all the way in, first position, or all the way out) of the headlight switch. Lastly, with the emergency flashers on (everything blinking - hood, lowers, rears) if the brake if pressed everything stays illuminated (no blinking). Release the brake and everything starts to blink. Although, I think this is normal since I seem to recall that happening before the 'incident'.

I looked at the diagram (3 of 4) and it doesn't appear to show a relationship (connectivity) between the turn signals and side marker lights. As I mentioned - the 4-way flashers work great. All lights dash, hood, front & rear blink when putting on the emergency flashers. I did peak at their splice job and they wrapped the daylights out of the wire so without tearing apart their tape job I cant see if they switched the wires. I also checked the wiring diagram my Haynes manual and even if the wires were switched it doesn't appear that should/would cause the behavior I am seeing since they aren't common with the turn signals. I must be missing something...

Good catch Aslanefe - I did forget to mention it is a '69. Will edit original entry so save having to read this post.

Had an incident with the car, '69 Mustang, while on Hot Rod Power Tour last year - long story short, the driver side marker light ended up getting ripped out the socket and the wires ripped apart. The long version of the story would go into the details about other body damage done to the front drivers side - but that is for another day. Took the car to a body shop and they fixed all the damage which included splicing in a new driver side marker light. Picked the car up and before I left I checked all the lights - but not the turn signals. When I got home my wife asked why I didn't use my signals. Well I was using them they just weren't working - I called the shop and told them about it but said I would look into myself since I figured maybe they disconnected the turn-signal flasher (they also had to replace the antenna and wire going to the radio). Finally today, due to warmer weather and having time I pulled the radio to check. The flasher was installed so I figured may it just died - so I grabbed another one from the local parts store. I know I should have just switched it out with the one for the emergency flashers since the flashers work great - but I didn't since the store was close by. Installed the new flasher still no turn signals. If I press the brake and then select left or right that tail light will go out but not blink (switching from left/right the accompanying light will go out and not blink). The front signals do nothing and the hood mounted ones do nothing. I checked voltage and the wire (orange with yellow stripe) going into flasher unit and I am getting power when selecting left/right. The voltage is a little lower compared to the power going to the emergency flasher power wire but not much lower. When I check the output side of the turn-signal flasher I am getting approx 3.5volts compared to the output side of the emergency flashers where the power is close to 12volts when energized. I switched the old turn-signal flasher with the emergency flasher and the flashers work - I put the one that was in the emergency flashers into the turn-signal and with same results of no working turn signals. I am running LED bulbs (from West Coast Cougars) in the rear and front -- all lights/signal were working before the HRPT incident. Any hints???

Time to get a cover for the car. To many close calls with things/people moving around in the garage. What covers are you using? I am thinking I want something on the "thicker" side to provide a little better protection from things that go bump in the garage. Ready for some recommendations....

Don't know if the horns work. I bought them and then decided not to use them. I will make you a heck of deal if you wanted to see - all of them for $23.60 (shipping included).

Kris, CJ Pony has them for $34.99 (part number M316P). How about $25 (plus shipping - will use the cheapest option available).

Still tons O' parts available.

This is will be first of several postings to pair down my collection of extra/unused parts from my build. Been sitting around for a while and I haven't needed them so before I try "Flea-Bay" I will throw them up here and give the 69'ers a go. Not going to bother and price any thing at this point. You see something you like/want - send me a message or post your offer and Zip (so I can figure out shipping - although most things should fit in a US Post office one price and it ships boxes). Here is a listing of the parts with pics (all parts on table). Listing separated by pics. Airtex 6588 Mechanical Fuel Pump - New in box Dashboard light covers, lights, and rubber spaces 3 U bolts for 68 (and earlier) - new Edlebrock 4Barrel Carb Model 1411 - 750 CFM Edlebrock Throttle return plate Part# 1491 - new Edlebrock rebuild kit Part #1477 - new Underdash brackets Engine accessory brackets Door handle cup Headrest guides -------------------------- Various horns (functionality unknown) ***SOLD*** Edlebrock Throttle Level Kit Part #1483 - new 2 clocks Shifter (parts only not complete) Shifter to tunnel seal - new 4 GT dog dish emblems - new ***SOLD*** 2 Body plugs - new Rear Quarter Drain seals/flaps - new ----------------------------- Battery stiffner tray - new Disc Brake pedal cover Scott Drake Seat Track Plates - C5ZZ-13190-K Jack bag - new Steering Column Cover (1971) Transmission Crossmember bolts/nuts - new Complete Fold down seat/trap door screw kit - new Mr. Gasket in-line fuel filter - new Tilt-Away steering Vacuum Valve - new

1969_Mach1 -- Do you remember the part number for that Rad? Also, looking at the pic it apears the outlet is on the passenger side - is that right?

Okay, so I have been searching ...looking at Griffen, US, Champion, Northern (plus a couple others I can't remember off the top of my head). I am amazed at the range in prices. I know I want inlet/outlet on passenger side (like stock) plus I need the internal tranny cooler since I don't want to install an external one. Ideally, I would want it to mount with the stock "clamp" at the top and brackets on the bottom plus use the stock fan shroud -- for the appearance of being stock. Anyone running a setup like I describe?

Thanks for all the comments Sounds like aluminum rad is gonna be my best bet. I have an oil cooler sitting on the shelf but I don't think it will do enough to help me while traveling long distances at Hwy speeds. I am going to try a different rad first before I switch to electric fans - I like the look of the belt driven fan. Now I gotta try and catch one on sale.

I have the 'spring' in the bottom hose to stop collapse (at least that is what is supposed to do). I have watched the hoses as I raised RPMs but haven't notice it collapsing. The 'spring' runs almost the entire lenght of the hose.

It is a 24" inch radiator -- bought new just before power tour last year. I am running a belt driven fan flex fan (stock from original). The car will have Classic Auto Air. I have everything installed but the compressor. Motor is bored .030 over -- cam is little "better" than stock. I don't recall timing specs off the top of my head -- but it wasn't roo radical. Like I said going short distances around town I never notice crazy temps. It has gotten hot during the last two (and only two) Hot Rod Power Tour runs I have done. Running Hwy speeds turning aroud 2500-3000 RPM (depending on speed) for an hour or two keeps the temps up. I can only expect it will be hot again next unless I 'fix' it.

Car made it home after another Hot Rod Power tour trip. This year it was hot ... running 65MPH for a couple of hours in the high temps of the south made the temp climb on the motor. In general I was running about 200-205 while doing highway speeds during the heat of the day. If I had to stop and wait in traffic the temp really started to climb. I would slip it into N and the raise RPM to 1100 or so and run heater full blast to try and keep temp in check. I tried replacing the Thermostat and Water pump while on the road -- the HD water pump helped a little but it still got hot. So, I am asking what temps are other running 351W seeing when going Highway speeds for an extended time. I am thinking of swapping to a 3 or 4 core radiator and/or adding an oil cooler. So let the temp reportings start....

Wow -- tough luck and great luck at the same time. The one thing about the tour is that is puts the car through the wringer -- 7 Days 7 Cities will find the weak points. On the tour last year I ran a little hot -- nothing to bad but it was in the back of my mind this year. On the way to Madison she got warm again, and then warmer otw to Champaign and St. Louis. While in St. Louis (also home) I decided to pull the thermostat to see if it was stuck -- it wasn't but I it did open very slowly so I switched it out. The trip to Memphis was any better so decided to try the water pump (I was running the originial stock pump [rebuilt] to get better flow. Put in a HD water pump -- flow improved but car still got hot going into the remaining events in Birmingham, Gulfport, and Baton Rouge. Kept in it check by running heater full blast -- not fun during the summer in the South. Coming home temps were a little betters thanks to the ton of rain from Baton Rouge heading. Gonna look at replacing the radiator with a 4 core or adding an oil cooler. The clock is ticking down to the next Power Tour. I think I might have seen MN69Grande going into the venue in Madison/Champaign (they start to blend). You were going in VIP entrance at the same time I was leaving -- there was a single guard at the gate and the entrance was toward the rear of the venue.

Less than 48hrs before I head out for Madison ... Looking forward to it.

I did the tour last year -- left the house with about 150 miles on a complete rebuild of car (every nut, bolt, screw was taken off) and pulled into the driveway at the house with about 3075 on it. Was a blast. Like has been said -- cooling, cooling, cooling -- some of the lines to get into the venues played hell with the temps. Had to run the heater in the car a few times. I plan to doing the long haul again. Got the rooms reserved and registered with HotRod. The tour route usually takes you on back roads through lots of small towns. In most of the towns people come out and watch the cars roll by -- in a a few of them we drank them dry of premimum fuel. If I had a nickle for every photo taken of my car I think I could buy a Shelby :-). Car even made it into HotRod magazine and on the website.

Humm -- since it appears I am striking out on a parts diagram breakdown. Can people post pics of the bolts they using for the bracket that goes between the bumper and the valance just above the running light. I currently have a hex head bolt that is cadmium (spelling) color. This what the FleaBay seller was correct. I mean since it was on the Internet - it had to be right... So on with the pics...(with an explanation on why you went with that particular bolt setup).

I have the set of Jim Osborn manuals but can't see to find (hoping I have just overlooked it) a diagram of the front bumper parts breakdown. I am specifically looking for information on the correct bolts to use for the bumper to valance bracket. I ordered "the correct set" from FleaBay but today I got a look at another car and the bolts on it are the ones I need (they look 1,000 times better than the setup I have).

The VHX is good at night as well. You can set the brightness of both the day and night. The way the system knows it is night is by the headlight switch. They do sell a separate dimmer switch but I didn't think the $$ was worth it.

I have the Dakota Digital VHX. They are great!!! Main reason I got them was I wanted a TAC and didn't like the look of an external one mounted somewhere in the car. VHX price compared to stock TAC setup price -- no comparison. The guages look good and were not that hard to hook up. They mount up easily.