Phils69

As you can tell that is the original paint. I'm gonna go back with original white Mach 1 scheme i guess although i love red on these cars. I started on the mechanical side of the resto and have finished that with the latest barrage of additions. The Randall's rack steering and front disc brakes I'd say have been the best additions for creature comfort. I'm about 75% done with the interior. Still have the door panels to do and need to refurb the steering wheel or get a new one. I am hoping to have the paint and body done by next summer but have to see how the $ goes. I'm a machinist and CNC programmer by trade so I feel comfortable with anything mechanical but I'm working 70 hours a week right now and will have to sub out the paint and body.

Here is a pic with her new shoes on.

Sports roof 69, dam fine launch off the line in your video. That thing hooks.

I just did a test run last weekend on my new setup. 408/AFR205's, link bar lifters, FTI roller cam, custom convertor and new 750dp carb. I am very pleased with the performance. Be ready to spend some $ if you go with top of the line heads. You could do like I did 5 years ago and build a good bottom end and pick up some decent alum heads then upgrade in the future. A stroker with stock heads would be too constrictive to make good power. Make sure the rest of your drivetrain is ready for it also.

Im waiting on my center caps so I'll try and post some pics this weekend. My suspension is stock style with opentracker stuff up front and 5 leaf in the rear. I'm partial to the magnums for rims as the black inlay matches my black interior and hood. The wide sidewall tires fill the wheel well nicely on the size I got.

Just did a quick road trip. They still break loose easy but not as much as the 14's did. Good ride feel also.

FYYi Got em in and put on. Looks and fits great. No rubbing issues anywhere. The rears have plenty of clearance and the stance is just what I wanted.

Got it. Turns out their relay was bad. Thanks for the help

Here is some more info I have installed and wired the pump in the links below but it's not working. I'm getting 12v positive to the motor but no negative. I have installed an extra relay to supply the 12v needed from the battery. My connections are as below. Please take a look and see if anything is not hooked up corrects. Thanks Added relay. This relay looks like it is functioning as should. Only supplies the 12v key on power out of pin 87 when the key is on. Pin 30: straight from battery positive with an inline fuse Pin 85: to chassis ground Pin 86: 12v key on power only Pin 87: to relay pin b in kit. Kit relay Pin B: has the 12v supply power from pin 87 on the added relay. The 12v positive has a connection between these two pins to go to motor positive. I have the required 12 volts to the motor. Pin C: to chassis ground Pin D: goes to neg side of motor. I have NO Negative going to the motor which is the issue. Pin A: has one wire connecting here from the vacumm switch. When I check this wire it is grounded. Is this correct? I'm thinking it should be grounded when the pump needs to come on. I can unplug this and it makes no difference. The pump does function as I have supplied a temporary ground to it with all the other connections made but runs continuously as it does not have the switch to turn on and off the ground. I'm assuming the kit relay works as my other one with the terminals matching as follows: Think it's wired correctly. Bad relay? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-5500/ http://www.compcams.com/Instructions/Files/COMP4-110.pdf

Well I'm having issues. Got everything hooked up and it's not turning the pump on. I got a good ground going into the relay and 12volts going to the vacumm motor. What it is missing is the ground signal going from the relay to the pump which I am assuming because the vacumm switch is not making the signal to turn the negative terminal to pump on in the relay. Is there a way I can check the switch? It's not showing any voltage going to the vacumm switch from the relay. Should it or does the 12 volt only come on when the switch makes?

I'm planning on pulling the power from the pump from the battery side of the starter solenoid. I'll pull the key on 12v to trigger the relay to turn the power on from either the violet wire on the starter solenoid or the electric choke. Thefts the plan anyway we will have to see how it goes.

Sounds like a plan. Hopefully Auto Zone or Advance has a relay and I'll get this thing running by Sunday. Or stopping I guess I should say. Thanks

If I had known the manual was online I would have started with that. The links are below. Let me know if they dont work. pump: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-5500/ manual link: http://www.compcams.com/Instructions/Files/COMP4-110.pdf

The relay with the kit has 4 connections on it. One to the pressure switch, one that requires the 12v key on power that energizes the switch and also pigtails to go to the positive terminal on motor, one to ground and one to neg terminal on motor. I'm thinking it would be best to add a relay to supply the 12v key on using the violet wire you spoke of and pulling power from the battery side of the starter relay. Think that shoud work?

They relay I have only has the fuse power key on wire pigtailed to the motor wire. The relay is used for toggling on and off the pump when a vacumm pressure switch tells it to.

Let me get this straight. I could pull the fuse wire from the battery side of the starter relay. Pull the key on power from the violet wire from the relay. I would have to add another relay to do this. Can I pick one up from a major parts store?

Thanks guys. I'll tackle it this weekend and see how it goes.

I'm taking the plunge. Just ordered them from Summit. $1185 to the door mounted and balanced. Can't beat the price. I'll post how they fit when I put them on.

I am installing a vacumm pump for my brake booster due to a big roller cam pulling only 5.5" vacumm at idle. The kit I got comes with a relay and fuse and it needs a 8 to 10 amp key switch power circuit. What would be the best way to tie into a existing circuit? Or should I run a new power wire off the fuse block but then how would I tie it into the key on curcuit? Any ideas appreciated.

I have a 235/60/14 on it now and it has 3.5" from the top of the tire to the bottom of the fender lip. The 275/60/15 shows an increase of 1.5" per side so I'm hoping it will fit. This is no weight on the car though. Those 5 leafs has it sitting pretty high. If I have to roll them it would be no biggie as I have not had the body/paint work done yet. I'm hoping the .785" width difference per side won't be a interference problem.

Thanks for the response guys. The fronts would be .4" wider per side than I am running now. I'll try to get a measurement to see if the a arms will clear. I'm really hoping the rears will clear without rolling the fenders. I have 5 leaf springs so it does sit pretty high. Probaly gonna go ahead and pull the trigger and order them from Summit this weekend.

Id like some final thoughts before I order these. Any feedback appreciated Magnum 500's Front 15x7 5x4.5 4.25 backspacing Rear 15x8. 5x4.5 4.5. Backspacing BFG's Front 235/60 Rear 275/60

Let me know if you got the pm. I sent it but for some reason my sent box is empty. Also have some roller upper a arms I just pulled off.

I just finished redoing the top end on my 408. If somebody in your class wants to build a stout 351 I could give them a killer deal. Alum heads, comp cam & lifters and Barry grant carb. Get a roller 351 and slap these on there with the right compression pistons and you'll make 350hp to play with. I'm in Greensboro and would love to pass this stuff on to a fellow stanger.

Give us some more info on the 302 you have. If its an older one the e7 would be a upgrade for sure with the gt40s being a little better. They say the gt40p's would be better still but would require a different exhaust flange so I would stay away from those.