Aerocoupe

TTT.

Painless 60510 Harness - Ford 1986 - 1995 5.0L Fuel Injection Wiring Harness - Std. Length We were going to utilize this harness and an EEC-IV ECU for the injection on the 1969 but decided to go a different direction so this harness is up for sale. Harness has never been out of the box. Price is $450 and buyer pays shipping. These are running right at $515 new right now plus tax and shipping.

TTT.

I am usually in the Oklahoma City area once a month so if someone is local there I meet you and skip the shipping costs.

Sold to stangman69.

Email sent.

I have a brand new in the box Painles Wiring harness for the 5.0L Ford 86-93 that comes with an A9L EEC. The A9L is 100% stock and still has the tamper tape on the service port where a programmer or chip would be installed. I put this on my 93 5.0L Coupe and the car fired and ran fine. I was going to covert my 83 T-Bird over to fuel injection but have since changed my mind and just had the carb reworked from a street/drag setup to a road race setup and am very pleased with the results. It is $600 for the pair plus shipping to any of the lower 48 states via USPS or UPS and I am not willing to separate.

This flywheel has never been installed and by the markings on it the manufacture date was 10/2004. It was bought with a 331 stroker package and was not utilized with the drive train combination. It is still in the box it came in and has all the paperwork. Price is $300 shipped ground to the lower 48 states.

I bought this distributor thinking I would modify it to work with a Vic Jr intake and then thougth better of it. I checked a few sites and they are running right at $265 new and the bronze gear is running right at $45. The bronze gear is installed and the original iron gear will go with it in the box loose. $200 shipped ground to the lower 48. http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Distributors/Ford/Street/Strip/8584_-_Ford_V8_351W_Billet_Distributor.aspx I cannot find the spring and bushing kit for it but they are around $15 and the part number is 8464. It has the original springs (heavy silver) and advance stop bushing (Blue 21 degree) still installed. Which ones you will need for your build can be figured out in the manual on MSD's website. Darren

Backspacing and offset will vary from car to car due to a number of things that are no longer stock on the car that would have altered the track width of the front and rear of the car. If you already have wheels on the car then you can easily measure the backspacing and rim width and plug those numbers into this site and get you the offset you currently have. From there you can play with rim widths and offsets to see what will most likely fit your car. http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp This is another calculator but it only does one wheel at a time: http://www.mrw-wheels.com/wheel%20tech/offset%20chart.html One thing to note is that the 94-04 Mustangs favor one set of offsets while the 05-12 Mustangs favor another set of offsets. Here is a good site with lots of OE wheel selection from these years. 1974 - 2004 http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/SubCat.asp?CatKey=74-01&SubCategory=Wheels&category=Wheels+%26+Brakes&KeyWords=LST15&grid=N 2005 - 2012 http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/SubCat.asp?CatKey=LLMUSTANG&SubCategory=Wheels&category=Wheels+%26+Brakes&KeyWords=LST15&grid=N They are reasonably priced as far as I can tell. I literally just bought 17"x8" 30mm offset and 17"x9" 45mm offset chrome Bullitts for my 93 Coupe a couple of days ago and the service was great and the shipping was free. Darren

TTT. Darren

Bump.

PM'd you. Darren

TTT. Darren

I bought this flywheel with a 331 stroker package and did not realize that it would not work with the Fox Mustang clutches (10.4"). I found several sites selling them in the $310 range including eBay. This flywheel has never been installed and by the markings on it the manufacture date was 10/2004. Here is the link to it on Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTF-700220/ I can ship it anywhere in the lower 48 for $225 of by some miracle someone is local to Houston it's $200 and I can meet you. I take PayPal or cash. Thanks, Darren

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Working on a 69 with a 351W stroked to a 408 with only the MSD and Taurus fan to contend with electrically. The car does not have A/C and no serious sound system. It has a brand new 60A alternator of the stock configuration and I think that the stock wire from the charging post on the back of the alternator is too small diameter wise. I believe the wire that is attached to the charging post on the back of the alternator goes into the harness and is spliced into a couple of wires of which one puts power to the fuse block and I assume another goes back to the post on the battery side of the starter solenoid. Can I simply remove the wire off the back of the alternator and cut it back to that splice? From there I want to install an 8 ga. wire from the charnging post on the back of the alternator to the post on the battery side of the starter solenoid. Everything is okay right now but I think this will help the fan and MSD and keep the battery charged. Any thoughts are welcomed. We talked over installing a 3G alternator but at this point there is no need for anything more than the 60A stocker. Darren

I would not say that a hydroboost (HB) system dictates how many pistons there are in a caliper in a given setup. Typically people switch over to HB systems if there is not enough vacuum to use a traditional vacuum booster which means there is not enough pressure being applied to the brakes. The addition of more pistons to a caliper can simply be to more evenly distribute the clamping force over a caliper body that has a tendency to flex with fewer pistons thus creating uneven pressures across the face of the brake pad. A person can use six pistons that are smaller than four pistons and will create the same clamping force but it would be more evenly distributed across the same caliper body. To put this in perspective look at the area of a cirle which is calculated by multiplying pi times the radius squared. This would mean a 40mm piston has an area of 1,256.64mm where a 20mm piston has an area of 314.16mm. This tells you that a person would have to run four 20mm pistons to equal the same area as one 40mm piston (1256.64 / 314.16 = 4). So with the same master cylinder and brake pedal setup you would exert the same pressure on a brake pad with one 40mm piston as you would four 20mm pistons. Granted a four piston setup would most likely give you better pressure distribution over the brake pad so you would get better braking. How much better is a relative question due to how the caliper body is built as I have seen some pretty bad four piston designs that are all bling and don't perform as good as well designed two piston setup. What generally dictates piston size is the availability of brake fluid volume. This is driven by the master cylinder (MC) bore size and this is where a lot of people get lost in how to design a good brake system and I was definitely in this crowd as the performace level of my vehicles started stepping up. Force is equal to area times pressure so its safe to say that if a person exerts the same amount of force on a piston that is 1-1/8" in diameter versus a 1" diameter piston (typical MC bore sizes) the 1" will generate more pressure. This shows that an increase in MC pressure can be achieved by simply installing a new MC with a smaller bore. The critical thing here is to ensure that the new MC will have enough volume to properly actuate the brake calipers because we know larger bore MC's move more volume. Again, balancing the system is paramount. A couple of other things that will kill a brake system is not paying attention to the pressures the rear brakes are seeing (read adjustable proportioning valve here), what brake pad compounds are being used, and your tires. The brakes are only as good as the frictional adhesion between the tires and the pavement. Dry rotted tires will make a really nice braking system perform like crap. Really good tires will make a moderately good braking system perform to its best ability as if it cannot overcome the tire's ability to stick to the pavement which is lockup. Once a tire locks up the tire compound overheats and you loose braking capacity. I have a 93 Mustang that came with the anemic four lug 11" disc brakes up front and the 9" rear drum brakes. It would barely haul the car to a panic stop with the 4 cylinder in it let along when the 5.0 was swapped in. I bit the bullet and installed a full Cobra braking system off a wrecked 1995 Cobra including the ABS and with the Hawk HP+ pads and good tires. It will snap your neck if I stick the brakes hard enough and it is a vacuum boosted system. Brakes are about balance not just brute force and bigger can sometimes not mean a bit better. Hopefully I am not coming off like I know it all becasue I definitely do not. This is just from 20+ years of messing with this and knowing a few people who have been there and done that like we all have. I learned something on this project that I never really thought about on these older Mustangs. I knew that the older Mustangs had different length brake pedals between the manual and boosted applications. I saw them on the shop floor when we pulled the pedal assmeblies apart years ago. What I did not put together is that the brake pedal ratio definitely plays into brake selection as well as what the pedal feel will be like with different boosters due to the difference in leverage which is equal to pressure. Anyhow, back to some Ranger baseball. Darren

I would not say that a hydroboost (HB) system dictates how many pistons there are in a caliper in a given setup. Typically people switch over to HB systems if there is not enough vacuum to use a traditional vacuum booster which means there is not enough pressure being applied to the brakes. The addition of more pistons to a caliper can simply be to more evenly distribute the clamping force over a caliper body that has a tendency to flex with fewer pistons thus creating uneven pressures across the face of the brake pad. A person can use six pistons that are smaller than four pistons and will create the same clamping force but it would be more evenly distributed across the same caliper body. To put this in perspective look at the area of a cirle which is calculated by multiplying pi times the radius squared. This would mean a 40mm piston has an area of 1,256.64mm where a 20mm piston has an area of 314.16mm. This tells you that a person would have to run four 20mm pistons to equal the same area as one 40mm piston (1256.64 / 314.16 = 4). So with the same master cylinder and brake pedal setup you would exert the same pressure on a brake pad with one 40mm piston as you would four 20mm pistons. Granted a four piston setup would most likely give you better pressure distribution over the brake pad so you would get better braking. How much better is a relative question due to how the caliper body is built as I have seen some pretty bad four piston designs that are all bling and don't perform as good as well designed two piston setup. What generally dictates piston size is the availability of brake fluid volume. This is driven by the master cylinder (MC) bore size and this is where a lot of people get lost in how to design a good brake system and I was definitely in this crowd as the performace level of my vehicles started stepping up. Force is equal to area times pressure so its safe to say that if a person exerts the same amount of force on a piston that is 1-1/8" in diameter versus a 1" diameter piston (typical MC bore sizes) the 1" will generate more pressure. This shows that an increase in MC pressure can be achieved by simply installing a new MC with a smaller bore. The critical thing here is to ensure that the new MC will have enough volume to properly actuate the brake calipers because we know larger bore MC's move more volume. Again, balancing the system is paramount. A couple of other things that will kill a brake system is not paying attention to the pressures the rear brakes are seeing (read adjustable proportioning valve here), what brake pad compounds are being used, and your tires. The brakes are only as good as the frictional adhesion between the tires and the pavement. Dry rotted tires will make a really nice braking system perform like crap. Really good tires will make a moderately good braking system perform to its best ability as if it cannot overcome the tire's ability to stick to the pavement which is lockup. Once a tire locks up the tire compound overheats and you loose braking capacity. I have a 93 Mustang that came with the anemic four lug 11" disc brakes up front and the 9" rear drum brakes. It would barely haul the car to a panic stop with the 4 cylinder in it let along when the 5.0 was swapped in. I bit the bullet and installed a full Cobra braking system off a wrecked 1995 Cobra including the ABS and with the Hawk HP+ pads and good tires. It will snap your neck if I stick the brakes hard enough and it is a vacuum boosted system. Brakes are about balance not just brute force and bigger can sometimes not mean a bit better. Hopefully I am not coming off like I know it all becasue I definitely do not. This is just from 20+ years of messing with this and knowing a few people who have been there and done that like we all have. I learned something on this project that I never really thought about on these older Mustangs. I knew that the older Mustangs had different length brake pedals between the manual and boosted applications. I saw them on the shop floor when we pulled the pedal assmeblies apart years ago. What I did not put together is that the brake pedal ratio definitely plays into brake selection as well as what the pedal feel will be like with different boosters due to the difference in leverage which is equal to pressure. Anyhow, back to some Ranger baseball. Darren

We are currently looking at 18's in the front (275/40/18) and 19's (305/30/19) in the rear so the rotor diameter is not much of a concern. Surprisingly enough he is leaning towards the Foose Nitrous wheels, he is older but helping me build three cars has exposed him to a variety of parts and vendors. I can understand some not liking the larger diameter wheels on a car but I have seen them with 18's and 19's and they look great to me. 20's are where my eyes are telling me that a wheel is too big. StopTech is very serious about building balanced braking systems. From what I can tell they are leaning towards to different piston diameters on the front calipers. Once the calipers are made then the only tuning I have is with brake pad materials and a manual brake proportioning valve. Granted I could just tell them that I want a dual 43mm piston caliper and that just might be what happens but the engineer wanted the opportunity to look over what data I could provide and see if something else would work better. There is not cost difference between a caliper with two piston sizes versus one with the same piston size so I figured let the guy look it over. In the end I am betting that I will be an educated guess as to what we go with but I figured I would ask anyhow. John George at http://www.chicanewe.com has a call into Bruce Griggs as they have built a few of these cars to see if he can get us any closer to some weights. I appreciate all of the feed back guys! Darren

We are currently looking at 18's in the front (275/40/18) and 19's (305/30/19) in the rear so the rotor diameter is not much of a concern. Surprisingly enough he is leaning towards the Foose Nitrous wheels, he is older but helping me build three cars has exposed him to a variety of parts and vendors. I can understand some not liking the larger diameter wheels on a car but I have seen them with 18's and 19's and they look great to me. 20's are where my eyes are telling me that a wheel is too big. StopTech is very serious about building balanced braking systems. From what I can tell they are leaning towards to different piston diameters on the front calipers. Once the calipers are made then the only tuning I have is with brake pad materials and a manual brake proportioning valve. Granted I could just tell them that I want a dual 43mm piston caliper and that just might be what happens but the engineer wanted the opportunity to look over what data I could provide and see if something else would work better. There is not cost difference between a caliper with two piston sizes versus one with the same piston size so I figured let the guy look it over. In the end I am betting that I will be an educated guess as to what we go with but I figured I would ask anyhow. John George at http://www.chicanewe.com has a call into Bruce Griggs as they have built a few of these cars to see if he can get us any closer to some weights. I appreciate all of the feed back guys! Darren

The problem is the car is stripped and I cannot weigh let alone corner weigh the car until we have it all back together which I cannot do without having the front brakes on the car. The Griggs setup uses the SN95 spindles (more specifically the 96+ spindle design) which means I have to have the rotor mounted but I won't know if I am using the 13" or 14" rotor until StopTech can review the data they need from me to lay out the braking system. Basically I am chasing my tail here so I am hoping to see if someone else just happened to do this. I know the cars will not be identical and so do the guys at StopTech but close is better than guessing. Darren

The problem is the car is stripped and I cannot weigh let alone corner weigh the car until we have it all back together which I cannot do without having the front brakes on the car. The Griggs setup uses the SN95 spindles (more specifically the 96+ spindle design) which means I have to have the rotor mounted but I won't know if I am using the 13" or 14" rotor until StopTech can review the data they need from me to lay out the braking system. Basically I am chasing my tail here so I am hoping to see if someone else just happened to do this. I know the cars will not be identical and so do the guys at StopTech but close is better than guessing. Darren

My father and I stripped his 69 FB to the shell and are starting on a rather large undertaking of building his dream car. Its a resto mod with the emphasis on making the car handle the twisties with good power and brakes that complement the power. Originally I believe the car to be a run of the mill 302W, C4, 8", factory AC car of which none was original except the rear end when we got it. It took a couple of years of hashing over what my dad wanted the car to do and how it would look to come up with a 351W injected stroker, Magnum T-56, 9" with 2005 Mustang GT brakes, Vintage Air, and it will have a full Griggs suspension. To date we have the majority of the motor parts (basically the long block), new Painless body harness and injection harness (Fox Mustang), the T-56, the rear end, and the Griggs set up. The shell is ready to go the the media blasters and then be sent to the body shop which will take several months as it is a one man operation. I have run through all of the braking (Jack Hidley at Maximum Motorsports was a huge help) and am down to the front brakes which we are going to get from StopTech. I am working with one of the application engineers there and one of the things they need to know is what the car weighs and the corner weights. This is somewhat difficult to figure out as the car we are going to end up with is not what we started out and we did not weigh it anyhow. Has anyone here weighed a car similiar to this (351W based motor, AC, manual trans, etc) and if you did what was the weight of the car? Not many people corner weigh cars so if I get that information it would be fantastic. Anyhow, I appreciate the help and if you can think of another site where I might find this information please let me know. Thanks, Darren

My father and I stripped his 69 FB to the shell and are starting on a rather large undertaking of building his dream car. Its a resto mod with the emphasis on making the car handle the twisties with good power and brakes that complement the power. Originally I believe the car to be a run of the mill 302W, C4, 8", factory AC car of which none was original except the rear end when we got it. It took a couple of years of hashing over what my dad wanted the car to do and how it would look to come up with a 351W injected stroker, Magnum T-56, 9" with 2005 Mustang GT brakes, Vintage Air, and it will have a full Griggs suspension. To date we have the majority of the motor parts (basically the long block), new Painless body harness and injection harness (Fox Mustang), the T-56, the rear end, and the Griggs set up. The shell is ready to go the the media blasters and then be sent to the body shop which will take several months as it is a one man operation. I have run through all of the braking (Jack Hidley at Maximum Motorsports was a huge help) and am down to the front brakes which we are going to get from StopTech. I am working with one of the application engineers there and one of the things they need to know is what the car weighs and the corner weights. This is somewhat difficult to figure out as the car we are going to end up with is not what we started out and we did not weigh it anyhow. Has anyone here weighed a car similiar to this (351W based motor, AC, manual trans, etc) and if you did what was the weight of the car? Not many people corner weigh cars so if I get that information it would be fantastic. Anyhow, I appreciate the help and if you can think of another site where I might find this information please let me know. Thanks, Darren