prayers1

Great ideals all around! Thanks. I think new springs would be in order since they are originals. I'd like to try that before bending down on the hood. What color were the factory springs?

I made a wrong post

One time I tried closing the hood with an aftermarket Shaker Assembly, that might of did it. Also when closing the hood I can feel it starting to bend at the shaker hole, that might be a weak area. Good ideal on the stiffeners but it wouldn't look good when showing the car. Here's how it looks when I press down on both sides after it's closed. It still has a small gap on each side of the shaker hole. I had an after thought, could the spring settle more in the pocket when I press down on each side. Therefore needing new springs instead of bending the hood?

The hood is new and I think maybe the original hood springs are getting stiff causing the hood to bend when pressing down to close. If I lean on each side after it is fully closed I can get it to set almost level. I'd like to fix it using a piece of 2x4 on the front edge and pressing down on the center but not sure if I would fix it of mess it up. Any suggestions?

I haven't tried it yet, but thank you for providing a solution. Greatly Appreciated!

I use to have a 1975 Ford F250 4x4 with a 390 and cast exhaust manifols that are prone to pitting and leaking. I bought a set of Ceramic gaskets from RemFlex, It crushes as it is torqued on and sealed all of my leaks. Check out their website and see if they have a set for you.

Ray, How did you like the single pattern cam 560-.560 235-235@.50 LS108, vs. split?

I have the Flowmaster 40's, I have a problem with drone noise. Eventually I will change them, but right now I don't know what to get, haven't explored that area yet.

I'm using Photobucket and getting all types of spam from them. I personally would like to drag and drop or copy and paste from my computer. Any suggestions? Thanks Guys!

I too have the Sanderson's shorty's headers. Unlike Ray, I've had mine on for over a year and would like to change to long tubes. I gave them my specs and was advised that they would be good for the low end torque. Well in my opinion they are not! On the right side my header tube is a papers width away from the shock tower, my car doesn't have a smooth idle due to the cam am they rub ever so lightly. Do note that my motor is off center and if the adjustment is made, maybe they wouldn't rub. I have the 351C 4V, 63cc Closed Chamber iron heads, Cam 220/231 @ 50, 541/559. AOD trans, 2600 stall and 4:10 gears. Also since they are shorties, putting an O2 sensor is hit or miss. I know Ray has the Fi Tech EFI set up, so maybe he can tell you more on that. To get a proper reading I believe the sensor has to be a few inches from the collector (on long tubes). So in relationship to shorties, you'd have to figure somewhere downstream to install it. I'd personally like to get a set of FPA Headers. This is my personal experience, others may differ. Please let us know what you get and how they fit, plus pictures are best.

Looking for other options for a change of hood besides the Boss, Shelby or Anvil designs. I like the GT version below, but can't find one in a 1969-70. Any ideals and post some pictures.

Bob, Very good insight, I truly appreciate the time, info & knowledge you passed on. Problem is one can get complacent and bored with the finished project. It doesn't help looking at the latest Hot Rod Magazine or visiting Car Shows that show 69/70 Mustangs with 17" wheels, it makes one wonder how can I get my car there. Especially the ones with Forge Wheels, yes they are way too expensive for me, but they make the car look great! Building another car is out of the question, it took a long 5 year haul to do mine and I don't have another 20K to dish out. I agree with you about keeping the theme, that's why I thought of getting a more subtle, muscle car wheel in 17 or 18", because I do prefer the vintage look over the Pro Touring. I mention Pro Touring because that's where most cars have the 17-18" wheels I still would like to give it a shot and change the wheels, which is a lot less than building another. Just wanting your opinion, what do you think about the AR500's in 17" or the Billet Specialties Hydro with black centers?? Bob, Thank you again for your thoughts! This page is open to all opinions as well, Thanks!

Wow Bob, never really thought about it in that way. So you guys think I'm stuck in the Vintage look and keep it that way and forget about the Pro Touring look??? I like that mean Muscle car look, I thought my car has more of a docile look or it might be that I'm just getting too use to what I have. I had 275/60/15's on back and the tire was too big in diameter, the picture shows 295/50/15's, I like that front to rear tire height. The only problem with the 295's is that they line up with the outter wheel lip (12" tread). The next possible size is 255/60/15's with a (10.2" tread). The 275's had a (11" tread). So, I'd be loosing 2" in width the 255's and I like that fat tire look. I was shooting for a bigger wheel size (17" or 18") and as wide as I can get the front and rear to tuck in. Thanks Guys for your comments, I feel it's always best to get other opinions of their perspective regarding the stance and wheel look. Sometimes owners tend to be color blind. Please provide more feed back so I know which way is best. I'd hate to waste money on something I don't need and use it more useful on something else. Thank you!

There are 3 openings on that pig tail, what do you think the limit of use is on the 3?

Mike, on those Ramblers what color center do you think would look best on mine, black or gun metal gray? Also, do you know of the right wheel size for those? Thank you!

I'd like to change over to a bigger wheel either 17 or 18". As we all know what looks good on other cars don't on ours. For some reason it's very hard to decide a complementary style for our cars. I really like the look of the Magnum 500's in 15", but I want bigger more Pro Touring look. I've eyed the AR500's, but I'm not that convinced. Right now I'm more partial to the Billet Specailties, the Razor with the black spoke center. Here's how my car looks right now and here are a few pictures of the Billet Speciaties as well as the AR500's. Give me your opinion on which looks best on my ride. Thank you all! Billet Specialties Razor wheel

Thank you!

I'd like to see more pictures with larger wheels. I'm wanting to change to 17 or 18" wheel, I'm leaning towards a Pro Touring looking but I can't seem to find anything out there better looking than my 15" Magnum 500's. I'm not that crazy about the AR500's, they give the car more of a Hot Wheels looks, but it might be one that I'd have to pick if I want to keep close to a Magnum look. I like the Billet Specialties. Here's the Razor Here's the Hydro Which one would you choose for my car?

ardenq- Can you be more specific how you got 315/35/17 to fit in the rear. Such as wheel brand, back space and pictures. Thanks!

Great info guys, this helps out a lot! I'm sure this post will help others in the future as well. Thanks again!!!

Thanks Guys for the quick responses! Panels are white on back and do stay flush to the bottom, but there is a little gap. The gap doesn't bother me, but was wondering if Ford used screws. On my old set it had screws, but one hole was drilled too big, so I drilled one next to it and the drill bit caught the fabric and made a run in the carpet ;( I'm hesitant on drilling screws in the carpet and Brian's pictures looks like the holes are in the lower fabric lip. Brian, Thanks for the pics, that always makes it easier. Are the screws in the lower lip of the panel material or just above it?

I just finished installing my new Deluxe door panels from Mustang Market. The old set had screws through the door panel carpet. The new panels have a little gap about an 1/8" to a 1/4" gap on the very bottom. Did Ford put screws in the original design or are the ones I have a prior owners attempt to keep the bottom panel sealed.

Mustang Markets price was the lowest, the panels were delivered in 2 days and the quality is fantastic. I just finished installing them and I must say it gives the interior that new car look. Now I'm thinking of redoing the seat covers and a new dash pad from Mustang Market.

Good point Danno and thank you for the reply. I tend to agree as well with not cutting good wires. I was sitting thinking, boy that looks stupid having the regulator wires just hanging out unplugged in plain site. I'll see if I can incorporate the wires in to the bundle next to it. Thanks!

For over a year I converter to the on-wire alternator and been letting the 3 wires that plug into the voltage regulator hang. What can I do to clean things up, I show the car and it looks silly just hanging there. Could I cut the 3 wire connector off, tape the ends and hide it within the bulk wire next to it. Would cutting those wires off cause an electrical problem.