sportsroof69

I have a solution for the FMX....lol :D

If it is just in the passenger side, it could also be the heater core.

Carb sold

Valve springs: Intake: Heads:

Weiand Stealth intake: $135 Holley Street Avenger 670 CFM, vacuum secondary, electric choke carb: $215 Comp beehive springs w/retainers, 9000 miles http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-26986-16/..... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-795-16/ :$150 351W heads, probably need a valve job. They've been machined for screw in rocker studs, and the pedestals were machined for guideplates. They look like they've had a home port job on them, so I'm not sure if that's good or bad..lol. I have guideplates for them. I have a set of springs for them, but know nothing about them. With springs $75, without springs $50.

With having a Z bar, and the Hooker 6208 headers, there is no way moveable mounts would do me any good at all. It has to sit right where it's at. I'm going to run these.

I assume you went 35 splines on your pinion input?

And removing that spring is a PITA!

One of the largest mistakes in porting SBF heads, is removing the "hump" in the floor on the exhaust side. You can hurt your performance there. It's better to open the roof to give a more direct flow into the chamber.

This is so true. So many people seem to be intimidated by a custom camshaft, but I think for your build it's a must. You goal is reachable, but it's going to take everything being exactly right, and a custom cam will take advantage of everything you have, and give more driveability. I can recommend a couple of places for a good cam. Remember when you're porting your own heads, power comes from opening the roof. If you take too muck off the floor of those heads, you're going to hurt the power capabilities.

What are you using for engine mounts?

LOL...I fly a Learjet for a living. My personal maintenance costs are nothing :shifty:

Just another grand to tack onto this project LOL. If I say that one more time, I think I'm going to cry. I spent about $6000 today.

It's a custom cam from Bullet, and I don't have the specs on it yet. They said lower 600s lift, and mid 240s duration @ .050. They're saying 575-600 bhp. I'm using TW 185s with a fox lake stage 2 port. So did you have the driveshaft made? I'm not familiar with the Daytona pinion support. I'll have to look into it. Where did you get your yokes from?

So the new engine build is underway. 408W, in the 600 bhp range, according to the cam builder, with a 4 speed. The car will see slicks at the track. I'm putting the big input shaft in my toploader, and putting 31 spline axles, and a detroit locker in the rear. What about the driveshaft, yokes, and U joints? What's the best option for those to hold up?

I will see if i can find the code. I think it was 2000 Viper GTS Pearl Blue.

I'm ashamed to say, it's a Mopar color :( It's Viper Blue.

No mini tub. Those are 15X8 wheels, with 4.5 backspacing. The Magnum 500s have 275/60/15s BFGs on the back, and the Prostars have a 275/50/15 with Mickey Thompsons ET street drag radials on them. I need a shorter tire on my track wheels to get it out of the hole with less bog, because I'm running 3.50 gears.

After I posted that, I realized it would be impossible for that style cleaner to have a drop base. I will probably run a spacer as well, for the same reason. I roll roll the 500s on the street. The Prostars are for when I hit the track.

Thanks guys. And here are some pictures, as requested. and the way it normally looks LOL

Man, I appreciate that. I've been wondering about that for a while. If you're running a spacer, then there would be plenty of room, if I didn't run one. At least I know it's doable. That doesn't even have a drop base?

FWIW I personally watched a BONE STOCK, right down to the air filter and mufflers, put down 387/357 at the tires, in Tulsa OK, at 93* OAT, and 51% humidity. Pretty impressive.

I've looked at those, and considered it. My only hold up on doing that, is the fit is so tight with these headers, if there is any difference, it won't work. I actually had to try two different bars to find one that worked.

Hey man. Good to see you. I've seen several familiar faces over here. That was exactly the style of cleaner I was looking into, so it's good to see that it worked. If I recall correctly, you have a Victor Jr? I really should upgrade the clutch linkage, but it may just be something I have to do later. By the time the engine is ready to go in, I plan on upgrading the rear end with 31 spline axles and diff, and upgrading the input shaft on my toploader to the big input, so I'm not sure I'll have the money left to upgrade the linkage. I've been having issues with that engine for a while. The engine was put together when I bought the car. I've replaced the valvetrain, and heads since I bought it, but I don't know much about the bottom end. It's always had low cranking pressures across the board, and has never made anywhere close to the power that it should. I think it broke a ring at the track last week, but I haven't been able to check it out yet. It's building so much crankcase pressure, it blew the dipstick out so hard, it broke when it hit the hood. It's blowing massive amounts of oil out of the dipstick hole, and missing, and stumbling real bad. I was trying to get a 408 built anyways. This will just expedite the process :) I've been running a Centerforce DF for several months now, and I'm not having the classic bending Z bar problem. Mine has actually worn the hole out where the adjustment block goes in. You can actually see where the hole has been moved back. I'm running a bushing, and it all seemed tight when I first put it together, but it's really worn out now, and causes me to miss shifts at high RPMs. When I get it torn apart, I will weld the hole up, and re drill it, and see if I can figure something out. The headers took a little work to get them to fit, but they are in, so that's a plus lol. They were actually a major pain, and I'm not looking forward to it again.

Hey guys, My name is Craig. I live in Oklahoma, and I'm a pilot for a Native American Indian tribe here. I was referred by superduty69 because he had been answering some questions on my new build. I have a modded 351W, 4 speed car that gave up on me last week at the track. I'm going back with a fordstrokers.com 408, custom cam, TW 185s, Victor Jr intake, and a Prosystems carb. The questions I had for superduty69 involved getting the Vic Jr to fit, and what he did with his clutch linkage. Right now, it looks like I will cut the hood, and hide a smaller air cleaner under the scoop. As for the Z bar, I think I'm going to try and keep it. I already have Hooker 6208 headers that I got to work with it. The concerns involve making it hold up to a good clutch. Any input or experience on these topics are appreciated.