yllwfstbck

I disagree.my Cleveland is a stock. 30 with only the oil restickters.mine makes low to mid 600 to the wheel depending onwhat pill is in it.its been togathet for 8 or more years and never a problem

Everyone will say Windsor but I would say go Cleveland. I'm kinda parshel to them.

it doesnt feel real fast but you can tell it is buy the mph your going in a short distence.it doesnt help i drive my car all the time.driving a 9 sec car to a stock mustang may be why it dont feel fast.im happy with it.its been fun so far

sorry its been awhile since ive been on.been out of town with work.ive got a programer on the way.we will see what they put out.its going to the dyno for a base before i start toying wiyh it.i read around 370 at the wheel.we will see.ill keep the updates coming.heres a few pics.

My new toy got delivered today.its to dark when I got home but ill get pics.its a 2011 5.0. Its kona blue.I guess it runs alright.it was a hand full playing around while it was raining.I can't wait to go toy around,see what it runs and see what it will put down to the wheels on the dyno.if it runs from what I've seen I'll be happy.

im just looking for a ruff estiment.mine are already cut out.i had to cut out the lower core support and the strut rod mounts.i didnt even think of taking a measurement till last night after they were cut out.im not replacing it with the factory piece so its still going to be off.i just want a base point to start from.

im just looking for a ruff estiment.mine are already cut out.i had to cut out the lower core support and the strut rod mounts.i didnt even think of taking a measurement till last night after they were cut out.im not replacing it with the factory piece so its still going to be off.i just want a base point to start from.

i need from the outside fram to the center of the strut brace.the front mounting point and the back also.heres what i mean.see attachment.thanks for any help

i need from the outside fram to the center of the strut brace.the front mounting point and the back also.heres what i mean.see attachment.thanks for any help

i agree with what was said.by the time you do all that,its no much more to by a set of rods.if you used a stock rod,i wouldnt waste the money making it a floating rod.yes it helps out but why would you buy a high priced piston for floating pins and put it on a stock rod.either spend the money on a good set of rods and pistons or put ARP bolts in, remove stress risers, shot peen the rods,and put a cheap set of pressed speed pro piston in it.when i used stock rodes in the past i was always worried about it coming apart.with the rodes and pistons i have now i dont worrie about a thing anymore.spend the money once not twice.by the time you do it twice you could of bought good stuff a still save money.hell if i new it would hook i wouldnt be afraid to put a 400 pill in the nitrous.

i agree with what was said.by the time you do all that,its no much more to by a set of rods.if you used a stock rod,i wouldnt waste the money making it a floating rod.yes it helps out but why would you buy a high priced piston for floating pins and put it on a stock rod.either spend the money on a good set of rods and pistons or put ARP bolts in, remove stress risers, shot peen the rods,and put a cheap set of pressed speed pro piston in it.when i used stock rodes in the past i was always worried about it coming apart.with the rodes and pistons i have now i dont worrie about a thing anymore.spend the money once not twice.by the time you do it twice you could of bought good stuff a still save money.hell if i new it would hook i wouldnt be afraid to put a 400 pill in the nitrous.

What he said.there's a Guy here in OK spinning his to 10600 on a stock block.its been togather for years.he's running 9.50 or so.the main thing is the cylinder thickness.I. had 5 blocks to choose from and 2 had thicker walls then the others.the cylinders will crack first probably. That's what happened on my last motor and it was a turd motor.11.90 1200s in the 1/4.my next one will get cemented to the bottom of the water pump holes.I suggest. It.from the ones around here done; they had no cooling problems.just a thought you mit think about

What he said.there's a Guy here in OK spinning his to 10600 on a stock block.its been togather for years.he's running 9.50 or so.the main thing is the cylinder thickness.I. had 5 blocks to choose from and 2 had thicker walls then the others.the cylinders will crack first probably. That's what happened on my last motor and it was a turd motor.11.90 1200s in the 1/4.my next one will get cemented to the bottom of the water pump holes.I suggest. It.from the ones around here done; they had no cooling problems.just a thought you mit think about

Mines put out 638 to the wheels so far.that's 800 or so to the fly.its been togather for. Going on 9 years.its a. 30 stock crank with eagle h beams and Ross pistons.it went. 6.38 with the stock untouched 4v heads besides stainless valves 7/16 studs and Crane gold rockers.I kept cracking the heads so I upgrated to chi3v heads.I hadn't dynoed it yet and the two times I've taken it to the track I've found out I have. A tracktion problem.if 700 is true I'm pushing the limits.hopefully. this will help ya

Mines put out 638 to the wheels so far.that's 800 or so to the fly.its been togather for. Going on 9 years.its a. 30 stock crank with eagle h beams and Ross pistons.it went. 6.38 with the stock untouched 4v heads besides stainless valves 7/16 studs and Crane gold rockers.I kept cracking the heads so I upgrated to chi3v heads.I hadn't dynoed it yet and the two times I've taken it to the track I've found out I have. A tracktion problem.if 700 is true I'm pushing the limits.hopefully. this will help ya