RZ_70coupe

It is on the top of the want list. I've always wanted a car that you can not see to make a right turn :tongue_smilie:

I've not even had it out of the garage and I keep having to clean the dust off it. I give it 10 minutes out on the street.

I've not even had it out of the garage and I keep having to clean the dust off it. I give it 10 minutes out on the street.

Dang, now what do I do with all my new stickers :whistling: Ya, I'm showing my age group. I also had a Chevy Monza that I installed the Hurst Lightning rods in :shifty:

Dang, now what do I do with all my new stickers :whistling: Ya, I'm showing my age group. I also had a Chevy Monza that I installed the Hurst Lightning rods in :shifty:

I installed SSBC's conversion from Drum to disc on my 69. I used their adjustable valve. My 70 already had disc in front. Both valves have 6 connections. Two to the Master cylinder, Two for front and Two for rear. If it will help I can get you pics of both.

I installed SSBC's conversion from Drum to disc on my 69. I used their adjustable valve. My 70 already had disc in front. Both valves have 6 connections. Two to the Master cylinder, Two for front and Two for rear. If it will help I can get you pics of both.

Been working on getting my 70 on the road and now wondering HOW do you see the timming mark on the harmonic ballencer :scared: Anyone got some pics or ANYTHING that will help here :helpsmilie:

Been working on getting my 70 on the road and now wondering HOW do you see the timming mark on the harmonic ballencer :scared: Anyone got some pics or ANYTHING that will help here :helpsmilie:

Ya, was bigger than I imagined. But for the benifits I'll live with it. And for only $70 it was worth it It is painted using High Temp header silver. Under the scoop is an Edelbock 600, Dualplane high rise air gap intake, HIpo heads which have been ported and polished, oversized valves, performance double springs and roller rockers. The bock is 40 over with a slightly stronger than stock cam. Still have stock exhaust manifolds leading to 3" duals with glasspacks. All pushing through a toploader 3spd. It will not be the fastest but it will get me there grinning :yes: :yes:

Ya, was bigger than I imagined. But for the benifits I'll live with it. And for only $70 it was worth it It is painted using High Temp header silver. Under the scoop is an Edelbock 600, Dualplane high rise air gap intake, HIpo heads which have been ported and polished, oversized valves, performance double springs and roller rockers. The bock is 40 over with a slightly stronger than stock cam. Still have stock exhaust manifolds leading to 3" duals with glasspacks. All pushing through a toploader 3spd. It will not be the fastest but it will get me there grinning :yes: :yes:

Well the engine is comming together so I had to change my Avatar. What ya think? Ya' I know. Have to cut the hood and it is no way looking stock. But it takes me back to my 20s and when gas was less than $1 :biggrin: Here is another shot

Well the engine is comming together so I had to change my Avatar. What ya think? Ya' I know. Have to cut the hood and it is no way looking stock. But it takes me back to my 20s and when gas was less than $1 :biggrin: Here is another shot

Hey Sparky, See we are on at least two of the same boards :cool: I go by Rob Z on Stangfix :)

Hey Sparky, See we are on at least two of the same boards :cool: I go by Rob Z on Stangfix :)

STOP the PRESS' Looks like I located the problem. Just remember KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid - Well the Stupid part comes into play here :scared: When I went to the Holley 4brl, it had an elect choke. I grabed 12v from the feed to my pertronix. Sometime between then and now, not exactly sure where in the process, I moved the elect choke feed to the coil. THought was it was feed from a resistor wire and the lower voltage wold allow the choke to remain on a little longer this winter. Well I did not think about the coil and choke being in searies with the wire. THis would increase the load resulting in less voltage to the coil, which could cause weaker and/or missing spark. I just removed the choke and am reading 10.4v on the coil. Also noticed the coil is a 12v coil so I changed the feed to a solid 12v ignition feed. The car purrs. I went on a test drive and try as I might could not get it to fart out the exhaust. One of those small changes that NEVER entered into my mind that I had done or that it would make any difference. THe fact that several issues appeared at the same time, Oil Leak, bad timming gears and all along it was something I did :scared: I want to THANK EVERYONE for their aid and ideas in isolating this problem. Y'all are the best.

STOP the PRESS' Looks like I located the problem. Just remember KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid - Well the Stupid part comes into play here :scared: When I went to the Holley 4brl, it had an elect choke. I grabed 12v from the feed to my pertronix. Sometime between then and now, not exactly sure where in the process, I moved the elect choke feed to the coil. THought was it was feed from a resistor wire and the lower voltage wold allow the choke to remain on a little longer this winter. Well I did not think about the coil and choke being in searies with the wire. THis would increase the load resulting in less voltage to the coil, which could cause weaker and/or missing spark. I just removed the choke and am reading 10.4v on the coil. Also noticed the coil is a 12v coil so I changed the feed to a solid 12v ignition feed. The car purrs. I went on a test drive and try as I might could not get it to fart out the exhaust. One of those small changes that NEVER entered into my mind that I had done or that it would make any difference. THe fact that several issues appeared at the same time, Oil Leak, bad timming gears and all along it was something I did :scared: I want to THANK EVERYONE for their aid and ideas in isolating this problem. Y'all are the best.

Well another day another backfire :( Sprayed Carb cleaner and Starter fluid anywhere I could reach that might have a vacume leak. Found the PCV connection into the carb was loose. Tightened and no change to running. Replaced Pertronix back to points and condensor. No change in running. Found the fuel line was sucking air at the out of the fuel pump. Replaced fuel line. No change to running. Did compression check. one at 145 all otheres at 150-155psi. So to me there could only be one of two things. PLEAST tell me ther is something else. 1. Mis adjusted valves. THis seems a bit of a strech, but never know. I had adjusted them befor the engine was put back in. Placing to TDC on compression, thghten rocker till no play on pushrod then1/4 turn. 2. Timming chain not on correctly. At most it could be out one tooth on the cam gear. I'm not sure how much of an issue this would be, but I'll put it out there. Any more thoughts???

Well another day another backfire :( Sprayed Carb cleaner and Starter fluid anywhere I could reach that might have a vacume leak. Found the PCV connection into the carb was loose. Tightened and no change to running. Replaced Pertronix back to points and condensor. No change in running. Found the fuel line was sucking air at the out of the fuel pump. Replaced fuel line. No change to running. Did compression check. one at 145 all otheres at 150-155psi. So to me there could only be one of two things. PLEAST tell me ther is something else. 1. Mis adjusted valves. THis seems a bit of a strech, but never know. I had adjusted them befor the engine was put back in. Placing to TDC on compression, thghten rocker till no play on pushrod then1/4 turn. 2. Timming chain not on correctly. At most it could be out one tooth on the cam gear. I'm not sure how much of an issue this would be, but I'll put it out there. Any more thoughts???

My 69 with Holley 600 and Summit dual plane runs better with a 4 hole 1" spacer.

Thanks to everyone for you help. Here is the rundown so far Sprayed carb with cleaner - Nothing Sprayed carb with quick start for better indication - Nothing Checked PCV - Good Checked for cross fire using inductive tach - Nothing Checked for loose dist connections - All OK Dismantled dist to check for sticking mechanical advance - OK Used tach to check for mis-fire, ran to 2k RPM watched for change - Found 5 plugs were mis-fireing. RPM droping with throtel constent. Pulled plugs - No visable issue, but found 3 set to .045 :( - Replaced each plug Now runs much better. Only backfired twice when hard throttel at 65MPH. Still something there. I'm using Autolite 45 plugs. Are these OK or are ther better? Thanks, I'm getting closer

Hey Print Dad, Thanks for the reply. Guess I should have said the backfireing is from the exhaust and not through the carb. Sorry. I'm going to get some carb cleaner tomorrow and with the car running spray around the carb. If there is a leak I should see the idel pick up. I've not put a vacume gauge on the engine, but I do see the advance increase with the vacume line connected to the dist. Total advance -Mechanical and Vacume - is about 50deg. Not sure what it should be with stock dist.

Did not look 100% but the quick check looked OK. New 8mm wires. using wire looms and routed same route as prior to backfireing.

FRH, Great pics and info. Been wondering how to resolve my kickdown after switching to 4brl..Thanks

The car is a 69 with 302. Engine is internaly stock. Headers, C4, 4brl. original dist converted to Ignitor pointless. About 2 months ago was having flooding issues with original 2brl. Changed to Holley 4brl (600, vac second, elec choke) and a dual plane intake. The car ran GREAT except for developing an oil leak. This was eventualy traced to a blown rear seal. During the oil leak investigation I repulled the intake in the event the gaskets were leaking there. While I had the distrib out I cleaned it with break cleaner, being careful to only clean the outside(hopefuly). The next day going into work the thing began backfireing and could just keep 50mph. No power and backfireing like crazy. I checked the dist when I got it home and it looked fine. The vacume and mechanical advance were working. I pulled the engine to replace the rear main and discovered the timing gear on the cam was SHOT. Guessed it had jumped. Reassembled the engine and it started and idled great. Took it around the block, very easy to insure all was well. Then tried a litle harder accelleration from a stop and BACKFIRE. So I checked the dist, timing, wires, etc. Can not see anything out of place. The dist is original, but converted to igniter pointless. New cap and rotor, new wires, new plugs. Idles great. Prior to the backfireing it ran very strong and getting 17+mpg. I'm stuck. It sounds like an ignition issue. I made sure the timming marks on new timming chain set were correct. Top one at 6 and bottom at 12. Help:helpsmilie::helpsmilie::helpsmilie: