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signorc

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Everything posted by signorc

  1. signorc
    Hello everyone, looking to see if anyone here knows where I could find or what I can create to make the 2 distributor hold downs that are in the picture. thanks for any input
  2. signorc
    Hello everyone, take a look at what the inside of the distributor looked like!!! I guess now I know why I was getting no spark or at best a very weak spark. Just ordered new set of male spark plugs to install the original autolite female distributor. cap...... but living in Italy it'll take 2 weeks for the stuff to get here :(
  3. signorc
    Hello everyone, after having adjusted the idle screws, the car still stalled after 45 minutes. I removed the msd 6AL as cantedvalve suggested, and the car would not stall :) even after 90 min of idling!! Yeah!!!! Tomorrow I'll push her a bit and see how she acts. I did test the spark on the plugs after the 90 min of idling and it was a weak yellow/orange spark. I was dissapointed not to see a nice solid blueish color spark. Any ideas are appreciated!!!
  4. signorc
    Update.... once i turn the engine off after having replaced the coil, it doesn't start up :( the msd 6al box is very hot (dont know if it foes normally).
  5. signorc
    Also, I looked at all 8 spark plugs and they were all white..... so she's running a bit lean. I turned the idle screws out 3 full turns. Would having the engine running lean have an issue with the coil?
  6. signorc
    So here's the update :) Adjusted the 2 idle screws to 3 turns out....and now idles beautifully. Checked that the MSD 6AL works properly and it does. Got the engine to stall by itself after 45 min of idling. Checked for a spark. None to be found till I changed the coil to a new one and it starts right up. So I'm assuming the issue is the coil. Why would it stop functioning properly?
  7. signorc
    Sorry Barnett468, I answered so many questions that I forgot to answer your first 2 :( The carb is a rebuilt original Autolite 2100 2bbl. It stalls in 3 scenarios: 1. idling for about 45 min 2. After having pushed the engine up hills (for about 10 min) and temp increases 3. As soon as I get off the highway after having driven it at high speeds for many hours I rarely drive it in cold weather, so all the above scenarios hold true for spring, summer & fall temps Thanks for any input :)
  8. signorc
    I'll get it to stall tomorrow and then check if all spark plugs spark :)
  9. signorc
    I have an MSD ignition installed. The fuel line from pump to carb is covered and sealed with a rubber hose so it can't be that. Once, when it stalled, I opened the carb to see if the fuel bowl was dry or boiling and it wasn't.....so it's not vapor lock. the choke works properly. the engine isn't getting ridiculously hot when it stalls....as a matter of fact the antifreeze doenst even boil into the overflow bowl. before installing a phenolic spacer (which will give me clearance issues with the hood) I'd like to understand if the stalling is due to a carb or spark issue. I guess I'll have to try with new spark plugs and adjusting the idle air-fuel screws. it's been doing this since I bought the car in 2001. yes, I live in Italy :)
  10. signorc
    Hello everyone, I can drive the 302 for hours on highways with no issue at all....but as soon as I get off the highway she'll stall. She'll also stall if I take her for a ride up a few hills and engine temp goes up quick. Once it stalls she won't start back up till engine cools off (about 30 min). I tried swapping the coil to a new one as soon as it happens but no luck. Timing was also checked and is ok. Here are the results of each cylinder done wet & dry. Also, 1 & 8 have a little oil on the spark plugs. Cydr dry wet 1 125 140 2 117 135 3 117 135 4 105 117 5 120 140 6 125 148 7 120 133 8 122 140 302 engine not rebuilt. Still original intake manifold with original Autolite 2100 carb which I rebuilt. Any ideas are very much appreciated.
  11. signorc
    Hello everyone, looking to upgrade my cast iron intake manifold from my stock 302 SB with the original 2bbl carb. Seems as though all the Edelbrock aluminum intake manifolds are for a 4bbl carb only. Am I not seeing the one I want or do they not make it? ....sorry if the question is stupid. I'm not trying to get more horses or jazz it up....just need to replace the head gaskets doe to a small leak so while I'm at it, I wanted to take a little weight off the engine. I live in Italy and don't want to order sm that I know is not exactly what would fit my engine. Thanks for all your eventual input and help:)
  12. signorc
    Give me till Monday to try to modify the rod (I have a wife and 2 small kids I gotta acknowledge every so often lol) . i just installed new Raysbestos pads. rotors had done 300 miles with the old squeaky pads which i just replaced. did not use silicone fluid (i like the old fashion stuff). the pedal does not go down after i brake. i did install new front lines. pedal travels the same once hit 2-3 times. as a matter of fact after hitting the brake 3 times, the stopping distance gets longer (due to heating I'm assuming). One thing at a time........ let me adjust the booster rod and we'll see what happens. Ciao!
  13. signorc
  14. signorc
    it was born with 4 drums. the rear is still all original drums with new cylinders, drums & pads. i converted to front disks with a conversion kit from SSBC. They gave me 1978 granada spindles with the typical 1 piston caliper from a Mustang, Cougar or Torino. I added the adj prop valve to the rear brake line. and installed the new booster & master cylinder. It's almost midnight here in Italy so I'll read your response tomorrow mornin. Goodnight :)
  15. signorc
    hahahah lol I love comments like the last one by barnett468 :) besides telling me what I already know. would you have any insight on how to resolve my "major problem"?
  16. signorc
    Thank you for your explanation aslanefe. I follow everything you say. To answer your questions: -I do have a power booster - I have no clue what bore size my master cylinder is. Purchased the conversion kit from SSBC. - I have the 60mm 1 piston caliper with disk in the front - I have drum brakes in the rear. Do they have different size options for rear brake cylinders? PS - I've NEVER been able to lock either front or rear wheels
  17. signorc
    I tried decreasing the adj prop valve which is located near the rear axle all the way and then increased it all the way and I didn't see much a difference in breaking distance. To answer aslanefe's question.... the brakes do NOT lock up. The stopping distance increases a little after a few hard stops traveling 50 mph. I guess I was expecting the stopping distance to be more like a my toyota....but then again my toyota's weight is a lot less than the mustang. Does anyone think the stock prop valve makes a big difference in the stopping distance? compared to having an adj prop valve at the back of the car? thanks again for all your input & ideas!
  18. signorc
    Thanks Barnett468. So the best way to go is by installing a new disk/drum brake dist block? is the one Mike65 suggested above good or would you suggest another?
  19. signorc
    Thanks for all your input. I did forget to say that I did install an adjust prop valve. It just seems that when I test the brakes by speeding up and breaking after 5 or 6 runs the brakes drag on a bit too much before coming to a complete stop. would adjusting the master cylinder rod help?
  20. signorc
    Hi all, Upgraded to front disks from a 1978 Granada. The car brakes fine. Thought I was going to get just a little bit more shorter stopping distance so I'm thinking the brake distribution block may not be correct. Here's a pic of how it's set up. Could I please have some feedback? The valve's number is C8ZA-2B257-M All the best & THANK YOU! Paul
  21. signorc
    the leak is definitely not from the valve cover. Thanks for the Raybestos suggestion. Never gets below freezing here so I'll be ok :)
  22. signorc
    Update! So after cleaning the oily substance from everywhere on the engine I've found out that it's leaking a small amount of oil (not antifreeze) from: around the distributor & from the back of the engine. Issue is I can't figure out if it's from the intake manifold or the RH header. I've attached a pic to get your opinion. I think it's coming from the corner where the intake and the header meet but could be wrong. Also, I need to order new brake pads (I have 1978 Granada spindles installed with a 1 piston caliper) and would like to know if anyone has a favorite brake pad and exact part number. I'll be shipping them to Italy so don't want to make a mistake ordering them. I've attached a pic of the ones on my '69 now. Thanks in advance for all your input!
  23. signorc
    So, after a closer look and cleaning.....there's oil seeping from the back of the intake manifold cause there's oil there and leaks all the way down both sides of the heads to the block and oil pan, as well as under the distributor. It's all cleaned up and now I gotta keep a good eye on it to see if it's only leaking from the intake manifold and/or somewhere else. Right now it looks like whoever put the RTV on last time didn't put enough on the front & back in between the block and manifold. FYI - I did look into the gas tank with a long reach Bic lighter which explains why I'm writing this post with my new best friend St. Peter here in heaven! lol
  24. signorc
    Thanks for all the discussion so far! I've ordered a phenolic spacer so I hope the carb won't get as hot to make it stall. The car has been tuned and I rebuilt the carb so all good there. I was debating getting an aluminum intake manifold....but don't want to go to a 4 bbl. Also, there's no gas tank vent hose on the car. Don't know if the pressure that builds up can screw up the gas flow to the carb and make it stall. The car doesn't stall cause of vapor lock (I've checked this). It stall around 210-220 but ONLY when idleing or in stop&go traffic. Spark plug #4 is dry. but #1 & #3 are slightly oily. I have to check if the leak in the back of the engine is oil from the manifold or coolant from the LH header.
  25. signorc
    Hello, It's def not the pcv cause the valve covers are not wet. it's oily below the head and now onto the bell housing. Would a thicker oil help the lubrication out on the cylinders? I'm pretty much against synthetic oils. The engine runs great with the only issue that it stalls when in stop-and-go traffic. then I have to wait for the engine to cool off a little to restart. I was thinking that maybe the low compression on #4 is due to a gasket leak, which would then explain the oil leak by there. Was thinking to replace the head gaskets. Ant thoughts on this? ciao!
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