signorc

...sorry I didn't explain myself well. I removed the brace and then reinstalled it. I even use a crossmember being I have a convt and want as much stability as possible. I even had the lower cross bar reinforced and strengthened. I bought a rear sway bar years ago but they sent me the wrong one :(

Hi everyone from the same old lockdown Italy..... Installed the new 8" double diaphragm with the 1" bore mc and I can FINALLY lock the front wheels! I had to take the front brace off cause the booster wouldn't fit in between the brace and inner fender.....but it's all good now! Tomorrow I'll adjust the proportioning valve amd I think the last thing to do is wait for the lockdown to end so I can take it for a drive :) On a side note.... things are not looking any better here in Italy. The summer beach activities and retaurant outings don't look like are gonna happen in 2020. Stay safe and I hope you're all doing well. All the best, Paul

Hi Barnett, Thanks for the disk/drum mc difference! Very clear and thorough :) i'm gonna try my friend's booster....it comes with a 15/16" bore mc (I currently have a 1" bore)..... so comparing it to mine.......I'll be getting more boost and a smaller bore. I can only assume it should do the trick. I'm gonna have to try to adapt my current mc lines to the new one without kinking them. Thanks again for your (& everyone else's) suggestions and comments

1. Did your car have disc brakes originally? No. I bought a conversion kit with Granada spindles from Mustangs Unlimited in 2002. they shipped me a SSBC kit. 2. Are you saying the new booster in the kit you bought from them was bad so they sent you the booster you now have which is aso bad? Yes 3. Is your current booster a single or dual diaphragm? single 4. Is your current booster, longer, shorter, or the same length as your friends? mine is shorter cause it's a single diaphragm. 5. Is your current booster lager, smaller, or the same size as your friends? 6. Is the brake rod in your current booster, bigger, smaller, or the same diameter as the rod in your friends booster? no idea. the current on is a metric 6mm 6. Do you have a drum brake pedal or a disc brake pedal? i have a 69 power disk pedal.

luck has it that a friend here in Italy has a new 8" booster that he ordered from CJponyparts a while back and never installed it cause he got a Wildwood kit. here are a couple of pics and the link to what he has. any thoughts? not an original Bendix but I think it'll be better than my 9" single diaphragm, right? https://www.cjponyparts.com/master-power-brake-booster-conversion-kit-manual-transmission-1967-1970/p/BBCK3/

thanks. see them but they dont answer my mc question on how to distinguish a disk mc from a drum mc

This is what I have: 1. a 1969 power brake pedal (5" from pivot point to pedal pin) 2. am/c with a 1" bore (I don't know if it's a power disk m/c or a power drum m/c) 3. single diaphragm booster with a teardrop eye for the pedal pin ...fyi take a look at what mustangsteve says about boosters and pedals for 69s

so here's the question of the day.... how can I know which m/c I have? if it's for power disk or power drum.... for example on macsautoparts.com: 1. https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mustang/ford-mustang-master-cylinder-new-dual-chamber-for-manual-drum-brakes.html 2. https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mustang/ford-mustang-master-cylinder-new-dual-chamber-before-7-2-1972-for-power-disc-brakes.html 3. https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mustang/1964-1969-mustang-ford-style-teardrop-master-cylinder-disc-drum-1.html they look identical but how can I tell the difference?

Ok. So we've determined that the booster has a vacuum leak then. Time to search for a brake specialist during a lockdown lol

does it matter if I bleed the brakes with or without the engine on? I've always done it with the engine off

Update..... The one way valve on the booster works properly. When i compare braking the car with and without the booster...... the booster does help me stop the car a slightly better. When I start the car with my foot on the brake pedal, it does sink a bit (test for page #39 on dcm powerpoint instructional). page #40 of the instructional, i don't underatand when it says "there should be 2 or more power assisted brake applications". What do they mean by "applications"? To follow up Barnetts suggestion.....when i remove the vacuum hose from the booster after having started the car for a minute and shut it off.....there's no hissing or suckling sound at all.

Hi Barnett, no not yet. Yesterday I removed the oil pan to change the rear main seal cause it was leaking. Tomorrow I'll add the oil to the engine and start her up to verify the booster working

I sent the pic to SSBC to get their thoughts. I'll follow up as soon as I hear sm. I've tried all kids of lengths (shorter and longer than .015") on the push rod....no change in the braking

Yes. If you go back on this thread a few pics you'll see the broken piece and the the one ai made

Nothing. I just found ot broken a few days ago.

Hello, I can't compare the piston depth cause I only have 1 mc. As I removed the mc to check the clearance....the bolt I made was bent. I made a new one of 8.8 steel grade. adjusted the pushrod to .015 clearance but it still takes too long to come to a complete stop. I have a single diaphragm. this is what they sent with the kit. I have 17,5 to 18" Hg of vacuum to the booster. the 2 pivot points that you see in the second picture was done by my first rod. when I saw the rod was broken in half I crapped in my pants knowing I could have lost all braking! Tomorrow I'll compare the brake pedal feel with and without the vacuumed booster. This sucks cause it was a kit that was sold by SSBC and I took for granted they would have sent me a compatible kit :(

Could i test the booster by removing the vacuum line to it and see how the pedal travels differently?

I bought the entire brake set up from SSBC in 2003. When I set it up the original booster was bad so they replaced it. They supplied me the current set up (not to say that they couldn't have made a mistake). No, I don't hear any air leaking when the brakes are applied. What is the difference between a manual mc and a power mc? besides one having a booster and the other not

Hey everyone, I re-bled the brakes today. the calipers are on correctly with bleeder facing the rear.....and still could not lock up either front or rear by standing on the brake pedal with BOTH feet from about 60mph. Tomorrow I'll check how much vacuum I'm getting to the booster and I'll make the booster push rod a bit longer (again). ....don't know if this matters but I can't get the brake pedal to the floor. it has a short and hard travel. I could buy new flex hoses but I live in Italy and I gotta wait till my next trip to the US to see my kids......no time soon thanks to Covid 19. I believe I have the Raybestos RRD14 riveted pads on them now (see picture).

i cant get either to lock

Hello everyone, I reinstalled the 1" bore m/c and bled the brakes and took it for a drive.......and so far no leaks :) In a "panic stop" situation the car does NOT stop quickly enough. I cannot lock the front brakes no matter how hard I push on the pedal. I have a Granada conversion kit installed with 1 piston calipers in the front and drums in the rear. The proportioning valve is turned counterclockwise all the way (to give the front 100% hydraulic pressure) .... I cannot lock the front wheels for the life of me! Tomorrow I'll check that the rear have a little drag when spun by hand, I'll also make the booster push rod a smudge longer. Also, the brake pedal is spongy.....it doesn't have that solid feeling of "I'm stopping NOW!"..... I slam on the brakes and the car says "......I'll stop in a few seconds" Stay safe & thanks for any suggestions or input......... and remember please stay home..... it's still a crapshow here in Italy.

These are 2 pics I took today when I took the mc off. The inside of the boostwr was dry. The outermost rubber seal on the external piston of the mc had some grudge on it. I cleaned up all the rubber seals and outrmost part of the bore hopeing that will stop the leak

Hi aslanefe, I bench bled the mc tinight and I'll bleed the entire system tomorrow and pray that it won't leak anymore. The bore was entirely clean except by the front where the lock ring is.

Removed m/c from booster and found the booster nice and dry. So i removed the m/c and found a broken push rod (see pic). So i made a new one.....don't forget i live in Italy and we're on lockdown so you gotta make stuff :) Also saw that the rod made 2 signs where it was pushing the cylinder (see pic). I'll be putting a washer at the end so it is always centered. Any thoughts?

Thanks for your input dcm. I'd buy a new one but it's not as straight forward as I thought. I have a front disk (Granada conversion kit with 1 piston calipers) & rear drum set up. I don't know if I have a 15/16" or 1" bore. I was gonna buy a new or refurbished m/c but not all sites are clear in regards to the setup it can be used for. Any input or words of advice are appreciated