signorc

I'm looking to find new seals for the m/c. See pic. power disk front / drum rear. any idea where just to get the seals or do i have to buy the rebuild kit?

ok, that's what i did. tomorrow i'll tweak the timing......if it doesn't rain. thanks

To Barnett: I replaced the springs. As you can see in the pic the 13L has the ticker spring and the 18L has the thinner one. Is this the correct placement that you suggested? To Mach1 Driver: The fuse on #6 reads "SFE 14". Would this be different than a 14a?

thank you for the detailed explanation. i wouldn't be able to give you the results because I don't have a tach and did not record the results. What I will do is change the spring and redo the test again. why does the 1969 Ford Mustang manual say that it should have 16inHg? you and i both agree that it should have 18 but it doesn't. maybe i'll get there after redoing the test. also, any suggestion about the fuse and cigarette lighter? also (again), were you (are you) a teacher? I was and gave it up. you explain quite well and are very precise (which i like). best, paul

this is weird....all is good with the electrical till i push the cigarette lighter in. Then the courtesy light & clock stop. no fuse blows. but when I move the #6 fuse it all resets and the lights and clock work again........till I push in the cigarette lighter again To answer your questions Barnett: I have a stock camshaft but have NEVER been over 14inHg....so 16.5 is great. When the lockdown here in Italy ends, I'll bring it for a drive and see what results I get by having changed the thick spring. The results of the 9 step timing you sent me: 1. removed vacuum to dist 2. set to 8degrees 3. advanced 2 degrees and then adj the curb idle till it got back to 8 4. did #3 again 5. adjusted curb idle and the timing stayed on 8 degrees (.....here I got excited I gotta tell you!) 6. increased curb idle to 2000 and advanced timing 4 degrees 7. repeated #6 8. timing was finalized by putting curb idle to 550rpm while in "Drive" and timing was set at 8 degrees

Got it! One of the fuses wasn't making proper contact. Time to swap the tube fuse box to a blade fuse box

Good morning Mustang lovers from sunny "lock down" Italy! if you wanna google it, I live in a small town called Vicopisano near the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Today is a glorious day cause after 20 years of owning my 69 convt Mustang and not driving it frequently which is the way I wanted (cause it would stall and not start when hot), YOU have seemed to have helped me solve the issue!!!! Barnett, your list of 9 things to do to set the timing seems to have been the magic trick!!! THANK YOU!!!! Once I changed the original Ford thick distributor spring to an MSD medium one the engine ran at idle without jumps or fluctuations. I then followed your 9 steps and the car's temp stays at 180 and never stalls (even after 90 min of idling in the driveway) and now the timing properly set :) I went back and adjusted the entire carb (choke, cam, fast idle, choke cap, curb idle screw & 2 idle mix screws). fast idle at 1600, curb idle at 550 rpm while in D !!!! I used to barely get to 14 inHg with the vacuum test not I'm at a steady 16.5 :) My only issue now is that the second hand on my clock ticks only when the doors are closed. If I open either door the clock stops. Also, the courtesy lights no longer turn on when I open either door and the cigarette lighter doesn't work :( Hopefully everyone in the chat is safe and staying at home in order to avoid this virus to continue to spread

Thanks for the follow up. The vacuum advance works fine. Just to be clear, when i advanced the distributor by literally a hair, the timing jumped from 8 to 20....and stayed there.

I couldn't get it steady at 8degrees. So i took the distributor apart and there's a thin spring which looks good and a tick spring which is a bit loose (see video). Don't know if it should be loose. I'll be checking for vacuum tomorrow with a mini propane tank. in the picture i have these 2 sets of springs from an msd distributor that i removed last year (left & center) and don't know if i can or should use those. The right pair of springs are from another autolite distributor and look pretty rough 20200322_182229.mp4

The vacuum advance line on the distributor was removed and plugged. The mecchanical advance works ok cause as I rev the engine the timing increases. It's the original autilite distributor and carb

Good morning from sunny and springlike temperatures lock down Italy. I tried setting the timing by turning the dist cap to 8degrees btdc but the issue is that the timing is not steady with the timing light. When i get it to around 8degrees and advance the distributor by literally a hair it jumps to 20degrees at an obvious higher rpm. What to do what to do on a Sunday lock down afternoon?

i'll give it a shot tomorrow. thanks for the help

when you say "reset the idle speed" (#4 & #6 on your list) and "reset the engine speed" (#9 on your list) are you mean to adjust the idle screw on the side of the carb? in #8 how would you like me to increase the rpm to 2000?

i have an autolite 2100 rebuilt 2 bbl carb. today (at a comfortable 70 degrees) i left it running in the driveway for over an hour and it never stalled and it never got over 185 degrees (which I thought was great!) I'm curious to know what it'll do in traffic in the summer at 90 degree weather. fuel pump is working ok :) I have 2 questions..... 1. do i adjust the distributor timing (without the advance vacuum line hooked up) to max rpm and vacuum and then adjust the carb idle screw to get to about 600-800 rpm? 2. the vacuum advance vacuum line is now hooked up to the rear intake manifold vacuum (same place as the brake power booster vacuum and tranny vacuum). I removed the vacuum line, plug it & set the timing......when i'm done adjusting the timing by turning the distributor, I hooked up the vacuum advance hose it went from 8 degrees btdc to 25 degrees btdc. way too high. what do i do?

The engine turns normal when i try to restart it. So let me understand....if the engine starts perfectly fine all the time when it's cold, i'm assuming the timing is ok......but i could have an issue restarting it once the engine is hot? Would the engine not start even when it's cold if the fuel level in the carb is incorrect? The engine doesn't overheat. It just gets on the hot side.

It sounded like a valve tapping. I immediatly shut the engine off and traced my steps and figured it out. It's all good now. Went for a drive and sounded and felt right. Tomorrow i'll get the engine hot and and i hope after i shit it off it starts up. I'll follow up tomorrow

I was hopeing that having changed the valve seals, head gaskets & intake manifold gaskets and cleaning out all that gunk while the int man was removed it would help with my most serious issue. When i go for a drive and the engine is at temperature.....if I should shut the engine off to get gas, or go to the supermarket or any other reason, the engine will turn but it won't start. It's not vapor lock and at this point it cant be the badly sealed gaskets. Also, if I keep it on in Park. After 45 min it would shut off and won't start. I have to wait till the engine cools off to start it up again. Tomorrow I'll turn it on and leave it in the sriveway and we'll see what happens.

I removed the 2 oil filter extention tubes that run through a separate cooling radiator....and ehen reinstalling them I swapped em. No oil was going anywhere so there was the thumping.

Foget about the last statement. I figured it out

Got it all going and it was smooth as ice. Got it up to temp, adjsted the distributor, timing & idle screws. Had it cool down. Strated it up again and now I have a ticking. Do i have to readjust the valves?

Thanks for the suggestion. I already have adjusted the valves the way you suggested. One question..... when I push on the pushrod side of the rocker, some can be pushed down and some are hard as a rock? Shpuldn't they all be able to be pushed in a bit?

Hi everyone, Here below are 3 different ways to adjust the valve lash on a 1969 sbf 302. Any opinion on which one to use? They all suggest turning the push rod with thumb and index finger...... what i need to understand (being i've never done it with hydraulic lifters) is when do i stop tightning the nut on the rocker? 1. When there's no more vertical play? or 2. when the push rod becomes completely un-turnable? Thanks for any and all advice!

thank you!

thanks Mach1 Driver! I just replaced my head gaskets & intake manifold gaskets on the 69 Mustang. should I start the engine without any antifreeze in the vehicle till the block gets hot? I'm asking cause this is what I do when I replace my classic Mini's head gasket. all the best from lock down Italy :( at least I'm getting lots of work done on my cars being I can't leave my house

I'd like to make sure that installing the Performer 2121 with the Mr Gasket Carb Adj kit, it won't hit the hood once its closed with the air cleaner on.