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dcf1947

TCP Coil over bolt in conversion

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I ordered the TCP bolt in coil over conversion kit with the springs they recommended (450#). Installed it all and it went fairly easy, the hardest part getting the welds off the upper spring bucket. Dropped the car and started measuring everything. First off, the shocks were on the bump stops. The ride height this way was within tolerances, but I didn't like the fact that it was already on the bump stops. Disassembled everything and took the bump stops out and reassembled again. Now, the ride height is out of tolerance per their instructions. Using their guide lines, to get the get back to mid range on shock travel I would need 633 lb springs. Seems abnormally high for a small block. Just wondering what spring rate some of you guys may have used to get proper ride height? I plan on talking to TCP tomorrow anyway but thought I would solicit your input.

 

Doug

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I did the TCP coil-over install about a year and a half ago. I installed the 450lb springs as well and they are fine for my car (351W). I didn’t have any issues with ride height. If memory serves there’s not a lot of ride height adjustment you can make other than dropping the UCA’s and tightening the compression ring on the coil-over shocks. The 450lb springs are plenty stiff, and handle well. At times I miss the smoother ride from the traditional setup, but not when I’m cornering. There’s really no comparison. I guess if I wanted better handling and a smooth ride I could have gone with the air-ride setup. Maybe I can recover a little of that smoothness by dropping the weight on the springs to 400lbs or something like that. Try taking a couple of pictures and posting them. Maybe something obvious will stand out in a photo.

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I can do pictures tomorrow I guess. I have a '69 Mach 1 with a BOSS 302 drivetrain which I still consider a small block, certainly no more weight than your 351. I wonder if perhaps the coils may be mismarked. The coils compress 3 in., and I think I recall the instructions showing a 2.55" max. I like the installation, but just confused with the numbers. Will call TCP in morn I guess. Both side are identical. Going to disconnect the sway bar and re-measure in morning too, and see if that makes any difference. Glad yours is working for you, so still have hope on mine.

 

Doug

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Yeah, I didn't catch the 'bolt-in' part of your statement the first time around. We're talking two different setups. I did the coil-over conversion; not the bolt-in. I kept wondering why your specs were so different than mine. Your shocks are a bit shorter than mine and a completely different setup.

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I did the Bolt In conversion here is a link.

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=12922

I also have a 302 and my springs were marked 500lbs. I have nothing but great things to say about how they work. Just realize that you CANNOT adjust your ride height by changing the lower spring perch. Tightening or loosening it only changes the spring pre-load.

 

Jim

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550 LB on 351W with iron heads, A/C and power steering.

 

My setup is

VAS 161MS-425 Bolt-In Front Coil-Over Conversion

VAS 21-09550 VARISPRINGS 9" LONG x 550 LB

UCA-07 Coil-Spring Upper Control Arm with Dropped Pivot Shaft

TCP COLVF-14 1â€-Offset Shock Tower Adapter.

 

I found the driver's side was sitting a little lower than the passenger side and I did manage to raise it almost half an inch by winding up the lower spring seat (but, further to Jimjific's comment above, ride height adjustment is limited and not the primary purpose of the adjustable spring seat).

 

Email TCP's tech support. Carl Ogren is very helpful.

 

84RTZ_02_left_zps5fa97beb.jpg

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True enought about the ride height adjusting. You can get a litlle out of playing with the spring perch. I found it works the opposite of what you think until you think about it. If you raise the perch so the spring is mote compressed it will actually raise the that corner. This is because you are pre-loading the spring. I wasnted to lower mine a little so I loosened the perch as far as I could so that spring had little to no pre-load on it. I've designed a way to allow the top mount to be adjustable so you could truly change the ride height but still haven't made the parts for it.

 

Jim

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I did talk to TCP yesterday. The guy I talked to recommended going with the 550# springs at least. So waiting on those along with spring compressor, spanner wrench, and thrust bearings. Just sorry I had to waste $104 dollars+ since they are the ones who recommended the 450's in the first place. Jim, I initially had the same issue you did with installing the assembled shock. The second time around I found that simply unloading the sway bar let the shock practically drop in place. Thanks for your input guys.

 

Doug

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True enought about the ride height adjusting. You can get a litlle out of playing with the spring perch.

 

Jim

 

Hey Jim, I'm not familiar with TCP products so forgive me if this is idiotic or you simply don't know. I've seen where a few companies sell aluminum shock extensions to effectively make the shock one or two inches longer. I looked on TCP's site but couldn't locate them.

 

 

Bob

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Bob,

 

TCP allows you to change the ride height by using different mounting plates that hold the top of the shock. I went with the flat plate since I wasn't sure how the suspension height was going to be. I ended p making my own plates that have an ear on them to mount my homemade Monte Carlo bar. The only issue with using the shock mount to adjust ride height is that you are using the suspension travel and thus are changing the geometry of the suspension during normal driving. The best way to change the ride height is with drop spindles, but they aren't adjustable.

 

Jim

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