Convertible, sympathy restoration

[ducfast 10]

Lurker here. Finally think I have something to contribute.

Have a convertible that I drove into my garage last December leaking oil and a heater that didn't work.

As I peeled the onion back it led to stripping everything out except the power top, followed by a lot of rust removal, floor pan repair, cussing, swearing and a general feeling of accomplishment. Now its going back together with a strict plan to NOT make it better than 1969.

I ordered Laurel Mountain Mustangs (LMM) suspension kit for $675. Everything goes smoothly until last night, while I slept, at some point the right upper control arm separated from the spindle while the car was up on jacks in the garage.

The tire protected the new front disc brake so minus the "snap" there is no other damage.

Some photos of (#1) broken control arm on the work bench; current right (#2) and left (#3) suspension sides and; (#4) a photo from December how it used to look.

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Informed LMM of the problem and ordered a replacement UCA from CJ Pony Parts. Going to consider myself lucky / unlucky at this point, review my steps and figured I'd ask this esteemed body for its thoughts.......

 

BTW- Great site!

[RPM 1,190]

Welcome to the site duc! Come on man, are those the only pics you got??? :) How bout some of the body and the repairs you've done? Is Laurel Mountain going to make it right? The good news is that you weren't driving the car.

 

Bob

[69RavenConv 286]

It's always nice to see another vert saved. Very odd UCA failure, but at least it failed without hurting anyone or anything.

[ducfast 10]

It's always nice to see another vert saved. Very odd UCA failure, but at least it failed without hurting anyone or anything.

Could not agree more!

 

Is Laurel Mountain going to make it right?

Yes, even though I ordered the part in December. Good folks. They said its the first time they have seen this and I believe them.

 

Come on man, are those the only pics you got??? :) How bout some of the body and the repairs you've done?

 

Here are some. Finding the build sheet was cool:

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I'm learning as I and its only been 3 months since I started so not much to show. After taking care of the engine bay, underbody, floors, most of trunk etc.. I'm almost ready to turn my attention to the engine, transmission, paint (original color was indian fire) and returning the interior back to white.

[ducfast 10]

And some more:

 

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Will probably go with "bestinshow" to restore the rimblow steering wheel that came with the car. Haven't decided on who does the engine.

Its an original numbers matching car and want to keep it that way.

 

I've heard Jasper is a good choice but am undecided at this point.

 

Recommendations appreciated.

 

Craig

[jnet4jt 10]

What engine do you have? With these old blocks it really isn't that diffecult to rebuild in your garage. There is a ton of info out on the inter web that will actually give you a step by step for a rebuild. The very first engine I ever rebuilt by myself was a 350 vortec in my '98 Tahoe and it's still running strong. Just make sure to double check all of your clearances during the build up (also free on the inter web. If you do it yourself and do a stock rebuild it will save a lot of money for other stuff. I would pull the pistons and take a look at the walls to see what kind of shape it's in first. For picking a cam, easy upgrade, just call the manufactures to see what they would recommend for your build. they can tell you what you would have to change and give you price quotes.

[ducfast 10]

I have the original 302 2V, 119,000 miles.

Also have the Tom Monroe (sp?) book on how to rebuild engines. Sort of read it and made me think I might not want to try a rebuild myself.

My goal is to stop the rust, make it a presentable daily driver in its original trim (1 of 120) add some extras (wood dash, wheels, power disc brakes) all for under $6K.

Paying a $2200 rebuild fits in that budget. So far at least........

[DarkBuddha 107]

Beautiful car and nice work so far. The UCA failure is very odd indeed. Is it that the rivets holding the ball joint failed? I'm using repro arms from NPD, but the ball joints are bolted on, not riveted. I couldn't imagine mine failing that way.

 

In any case, I wish you smoother sailing with the resto again.

[ducfast 10]

Yes, the rivets broke.

Think I'll look into the npd option.

Thanks!

[RPM 1,190]

Nice car to start with ducfast. So did you ever contact Laurel Mountain?

 

Bob

[69RavenConv 286]

I have the original 302 2V, 119,000 miles.

Also have the Tom Monroe (sp?) book on how to rebuild engines. Sort of read it and made me think I might not want to try a rebuild myself.

My goal is to stop the rust, make it a presentable daily driver in its original trim (1 of 120) add some extras (wood dash, wheels, power disc brakes) all for under $6K.

Paying a $2200 rebuild fits in that budget. So far at least........

 

My car is also a numbers matching car, so I understand your trepidation about screwing up the original motor. I rebuilt mine in my garage with the help of a truly ace mechanic and Ford fanatic friend of mine and it wasn't bad, even with the retro-roller cam conversion. The 302 is not a difficult motor, you should be able to find a local Ford expert in your area that will do it for a reasonable price.

[ducfast 10]

Ok, so the car is all set to receive its rebuilt engine and transmission. That will happen by the end of June. For now I'm going to ask for help on an electrical issue.

 

In the attached picture is a lone female plug sitting at the end of a green wire with a red stripe. All the wiring pieces fit neatly except this one and I can't recall where or if this one female end has a male end to plug into.

 

Does it terminate anywhere? I get the impression it either goes to the coil or it goes nowhere

 

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I drew a red arrow to the plug in the picture. Can someone look under their hood and tell me what they see, please.

Edited May 27, 2014 by ducfast

[ducfast 10]

Does begging help? :)

[Tgriffin91 27]

I'll try and check for you when I get home. Not sure I have that same setup though. Can't recall seeing the box there on my car.

[ducfast 10]

Thank you, sir!

[69RavenConv 286]

That plug remains un-connected. Rumor has it that it was either a factory test port or a connector for a feature that was scrapped didn't make it to the final product.

[ducfast 10]

Thank you, makes sense.

I mean I am no genius but everything was tagged and the car has gone back together well enough. I had a hard time thinking I chucked something accidentally.

 

Now I can sleep! Thanks again.

[Tgriffin91 27]

That plug remains un-connected. Rumor has it that it was either a factory test port or a connector for a feature that was scrapped didn't make it to the final product.

+1

 

Mine was not connected to anything either.

[ducfast 10]

Thanks for the check

[ducfast 10]

Got the rebuilt engine and transmission back in. All the electrics work and motor turns over (yeah!). Will try and start it later.

 

As usual the easy things are a problem. I'm trying to install the original driveshaft yoke into the rebuilt transmission (rebuilt by a reputable shop) but it only goes into the transmission about 1 inch. It seems the replacement real seal is preventing it from going any further.

 

Anyone run into this and solve it?

[ducfast 10]

I removed the rear shaft seal and now I can see better why it won't go on.

The rear transmission shaft looks mis-aligned. As the driveshaft goes in the angle mis-alignment immediately stops it.

 

I know the camera angle can be mis-leading but there is an obvious gap difference here. Some pictures:

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Unfortunately this is after the transmission and engine are back in the car.

Anyone ever hear of a mis-aligned tail shaft?

[ducfast 10]

Woke up at 5:40, contacted work to take comp time.

Started pulling engine and trans at 6:08, finished at 8:05.

Took transmission to shop and they confirmed a mis-aligned bushing.

Should have it back and installed this weekend. Ugh....