Electronic ignition wiring

[nhall80 10]

Sorry if this is a repeated thread (I searched but didn't find anything). I have a new electronic distributor and module for my 69' (351w) and am wondering how to wire it up.

 

The distributor and module are for a 78' Granada and have plugs for the Granada's wiring harness. I'll have to cut those off and connect wires myself. The three main distributor wires are well marked and I know where they go, but I have a couple questions: There is a green (ground?) wire coming from the module. Should this be grounded onto the firewall or is it needed at all? The power (red) wire I assume should pull power from my ignition switch. Since I already have a wire from my ignition switch to the positive side of my coil, can I just run the module's red wire directly to the positive side of the coil as well? Also, there is a white wire next to the red wire on the module. What is that for? (guy at the part's house said it was probably some kind of cut-off for the Granada and that I wouldn't need it...thoughts?)

 

Sorry for the long post. I know it should be simple, but wiring isn't my strong point...don't wanna fry anything and would really like my car to start after I put this together.

[1969vert 55]

here is a picture for the blue connector 1978 granada

[69gmachine 15]

Also, there is a white wire next to the red wire on the module. What is that for? (guy at the part's house said it was probably some kind of cut-off for the Granada and that I wouldn't need it...thoughts?)

 

The white wire is for the "retard on start" feature, which dials the timing back about 12 to 15 degrees. In the Mustang Steve diagram its source is the start (S) terminal on the solenoid. Alternatively, you can use the (I) terminal on the solenoid as it will also only have voltage when the start circuit is energized but it makes for a cleaner installation IMO.

 

You will need a constant 12V supply to the coil anyway for the Duraspark ignition. Originally this circuit provided 12V just during engine crank as it would lead to premature points failure if there were a constant 12V supply.

 

I cut the brown wire about 18" down in the headlight harness and ran it to the white wire on the Duraspark box which I hid behind the battery apron. This gives the appearance that the factory wiring hasn't been altered. Then at the other end, I ran a 12V supply into the brown wire just before it heads out the firewall.

[nhall80 10]

The white wire is for the "retard on start" feature, which dials the timing back about 12 to 15 degrees. In the Mustang Steve diagram its source is the start (S) terminal on the solenoid. Alternatively, you can use the (I) terminal on the solenoid as it will also only have voltage when the start circuit is energized but it makes for a cleaner installation IMO.

 

You will need a constant 12V supply to the coil anyway for the Duraspark ignition. Originally this circuit provided 12V just during engine crank as it would lead to premature points failure if there were a constant 12V supply.

 

I cut the brown wire about 18" down in the headlight harness and ran it to the white wire on the Duraspark box which I hid behind the battery apron. This gives the appearance that the factory wiring hasn't been altered. Then at the other end, I ran a 12V supply into the brown wire just before it heads out the firewall.

 

You lost me with the "brown wire in the headlight harness". I have everything wired up but am still not sure about where to run the white wire other than to the solenoid (S). I mounted my module on the opposite side of the engine bay and wonder where I might connect the white wire without having to run it all the way across to the solenoid. Can you explain what you did again?

[69gmachine 15]

If it's easier for you to pick up power from the S terminal, then go ahead and do that.

 

When the key is turned to START, current travels through the ignition wire (red w/ blue stripe) that goes to the S terminal of the solenoid. When the solenoid is energized, the plunger inside makes contact with the lug that goes to the starter and the I terminal on the solenoid. So it doesn't really matter if you decide to attach the white wire to the S terminal or the I terminal. Either way, it will only have power while the key is in the START position.

 

I just felt it was a cleaner installation to use the I terminal because I had already used the other end of the brown wire as a means to supply a constant 12V to the coil, so the end that attached to the I terminal just dead ended in the under dash harness and served no purpose.

 

If you traced the brown wire (262 IIRC in the '69 wiring diagram) from the I terminal it goes through the headlight harness into the firewall at the main bulkhead connector, then through the under dash harness and back out the firewall where the engine guage feed harness connects. At this connection, you will see that the brown wire merges with the ignition lead (pink resistor wire).

 

On the mating side of this connector there is a single ignition lead to the coil (red w/green stripe). When the key is in run, the only source of power to the coil is through the pink resistor wire, but when the key is in start, there is a parallel path of 12V from the solenoid.

 

Since the brown wire mates directly to the ignition lead, it is an ideal path to provide 12V to an electronic ignition. Of course it will require that you cut it somewhere in the harness and pick up switched power from somewhere. The easiest place to splice into it is in the under dash harness near the key.

 

It would probably be helpful if you had a wiring diagram.

[nhall80 10]

Thanks for clarifying. I have a wiring diagram and will take a look, but that is helpful.