nhall80

I reset the timing while the vacuum port on the carb was plugged this time. Same story. Was able to set the initial timing to about 10 while the range tapped out around 36 at 2800-3000 rpm. Seemed to run and rev great. But when I hooked up the vacuum line, the car would barely start. When I finally started it, it ran like trash and showed timing at nearly 45* advance. So, I left the vacuum line connected and reset the initial timing until the engine smoothed out...which ended up being 5* advance. It revs quick and runs strong. I have no idea why it is doing this but I'm very happy with how's it running now. Ill probably run it like this for a while and see how she does long term (like with engine temp). Any other thoughts about why this is happening would be great. j69302 - Glad yours worked. Ill be looking into the boss 302 distributor adjustment as well.

I realize now that I plugged the vacuum port on the distributor but not on the carb. Could that have been the issue?

Follow up question: I did as j69302 recommended and can't get the car to start once I put the vacuum line back on the distributor. I was able to set the initial timing on 10 and the advance timing is about 36. Ran great until I put the vacuum line back on. Car wouldn't start. I was only able to advance the timing 5 degrees and still crank the car. It runs well, but I think it ran just as well when the initial timing was set at TDC. Thoughts? What am I missing?

Thanks for the clear and detailed response. Very helpful. I understand now the role the distributor plays and it makes sense why you'd want a low centrifugal advance for power at low rpm. Ill consider adjusting this after some research. Ill need to add timing marks to my harmonic balancer in order to get these numbers dialed correctly. Other than that this will probably be a pretty easy procedure.

I made my own piston stop from an old spark plug and was able to find TDC and make by own mark for it on the balancer (The marks line up on the passenger side when on TDC...which I'm guessing means that it is an earlier balancer than the '73 engine). Here's my next question: what is the best timing placement and how do I find it? I set the idle timing exactly at 0. I understand that I need to advance the timing a little or check the timing while the engine is at 3500 rpm or so, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. I understand also that my distributor will have a certain amount of mechanical advance but I don't know what that will mean either. Should I advance the timing? How far? How do I determine it...at idle...at high rev? Will advancing the timing help my engine run cooler or hotter? (its crazy hot and humid in MS in the summer and I need all the help I can get)

I have a 351w with Headman headers. They are fairly old so Im not sure if the design has changed, but I had to modify my power steering mount to get around them. I made a mount to drop the mounting location on the frame by about an inch. Also, my flanges are prone to hitting the pavement. I'm not unhappy with them, but I will seriously consider another design when I buy another set. I'm also dealing with vapor lock and wonder what all you've done to fix it. I plan on getting the phelonic spacer and running a stainless fuel line. Did that not help with yours? I'm looking for less expensive fixes. What's the downside with header wrap?

Put it back together today and its running well. I'd still like to have accurate timing marks so as to adjust it properly. Right now I'm guessing based on how it's running and starting. I found TDC by removing the valve cover and checking the rockers arms when piston was up. That's how I determined between compression stroke and exhaust. When in this position the marks are nearly on the opposite side of the balancer. And the engine is a '73 351. I only assume the harmonic balancer is as well. It has the lower hose entering the passenger side with the timing tab on the drivers side. Maybe I have earlier balancer?

It was running fine, and I haven't tried cranking it with the new distributor. In fact, the timing marks were off before I pulled the distributor...I just always assumed I was on half-time. I just thought that I'd take the opportunity to put timing right while I was dropping in a new distributor. Instead, I found the timing marks not lining up while on TDC. I'll probably go ahead and drop the distributor in the same the way the old one came out and replace the harmonic balancer later. I will triple check the piston position though

Thanks for clarifying. I have a wiring diagram and will take a look, but that is helpful.

You lost me with the "brown wire in the headlight harness". I have everything wired up but am still not sure about where to run the white wire other than to the solenoid (S). I mounted my module on the opposite side of the engine bay and wonder where I might connect the white wire without having to run it all the way across to the solenoid. Can you explain what you did again?

Yes. TDC is on right piston. I assume the outer ring has moved. It isn't noticeably loose, but I may go ahead and replace it. thanks

Replacing the distributor while installing electronic ignition (351w) and found a issue. When I'm on TDC, my timing marks on the harmonic balancer don't line up. When the marks are in line, the #1 piston is down. Motor has been running fine, so I don't assume anything is seriously out of time. I thought by moving my distributor I could fix the half time issue. What thoughts do you guys have? Can I just reinstall my distributor on TDC without timing marks lining up?

Sorry if this is a repeated thread (I searched but didn't find anything). I have a new electronic distributor and module for my 69' (351w) and am wondering how to wire it up. The distributor and module are for a 78' Granada and have plugs for the Granada's wiring harness. I'll have to cut those off and connect wires myself. The three main distributor wires are well marked and I know where they go, but I have a couple questions: There is a green (ground?) wire coming from the module. Should this be grounded onto the firewall or is it needed at all? The power (red) wire I assume should pull power from my ignition switch. Since I already have a wire from my ignition switch to the positive side of my coil, can I just run the module's red wire directly to the positive side of the coil as well? Also, there is a white wire next to the red wire on the module. What is that for? (guy at the part's house said it was probably some kind of cut-off for the Granada and that I wouldn't need it...thoughts?) Sorry for the long post. I know it should be simple, but wiring isn't my strong point...don't wanna fry anything and would really like my car to start after I put this together.

Here are the before and after pics of my seat dying. Forgive the terrible "before" picture...It was all I had. I've run almost 2 tanks of gas through since the project and still no rubbing off. I also used the SEM dye on the interior vent panels. It makes a huge difference. I'm a believer. [ATTACH]14062[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]14063[/ATTACH]

The dip I use suggests 15-30 minutes or something like that. I've left carbs in the dip overnight if they were especially gummed up, but some might say that is overkill. I don't think it hurts though. Its a good idea to run some wire through ports and channels before you dip it just to make sure they are clear (I use guitar string). Use compressed air to clean them out after the dip.