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Big Block Power Steering Headers

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I have searched the forum and have not found an answer to my question: What headers fit a 69 big block, auto with power steering? I know FPA and others say they will fit, but I am looking for real world experience. Ihave heard of problems with the drop down bracket for the power steering. What have you guys experienced? I have a 390 with the Edelbrock heads so I would need 428 headers.

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I have searched that forum and I used that forum extensively when I "warmed-up" the 390 in my car, unfortunately I didn't get it warm enough, and without stroking it I think headers are my only option for more power, however I don't want to lose my power steering. Most of what I've read everywhere tells me that big blocks, mustangs, power steering, and headers is a combination for trouble. Just hoping someone can give me some real world feedback.

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I have it. This is what I have, 69 Mach 1, factory R-Code car, added factory power steering, had to use an adapter plate to mate the AOD to the engine and FPA Tri-y's. Car is not on the road yet, but this is what I see. I had to do a drop bracket to clear the power steering. The tubes on the right side have very very little clearance against the idler arm bracket. I guess I could have sent them back to have this remedied as there is plenty of room for FPA to move these two passenger side tubes in toward the engine but got tired of fighting the install. Very tight fit with about 3/32" clearance between the headers and the shock towers. I have lots of clearance around the transmission, go figure because everyone says the opposite.

 

So that's it in a nut shell. If I could do it over again I think I would not have added the factory P/S and went with Doug's cross over headers. Unfortunately the Doug's crossovers won't work with P/S. Or I might have had a set of cast iron exhaust manifolds extrude honed and stayed with those. Hope that helps.

 

I think a set of long tube headers would be even worse. Ideally, a set of mid-length shorty type headers would be the best for these applications. But no one seems interested in making those and I have no clue why.

 

Bruce

Edited by LindenBruce

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I’ve got the 6114 - Hooker Headers Super Comp with the drop bracket and I seem to have more than 3/32 clearance. I think it’s the differences in the cars. The problem with the drop bracket is it will eventually rip the weld nuts out of the frame because of the angle change on the power steering causing added force on the bracket. What I did to remedy this is make the L-shaped bracket a U-shaped bracket with a spacer for the bolt that goes through the frame. Been running this for a few years with no problems! Oops.. you said auto didn't you... I have a 4-speed.

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I custom made my PS bracket and is is in a "U" shape as well then cross bolted through the frame and well as the two factory bolts up from underneath. Let me try and dug up a pic. And I agree 100% a lot of fitment issues are car to car.

 

02lightnin, your car looks like the last of the 69's based on your born on date huh? What plant did yours? Mines San Jose March 6th 1969. Bruce

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I custom made my PS bracket and is is in a "U" shape as well then cross bolted through the frame and well as the two factory bolts up from underneath. Let me try and dug up a pic. And I agree 100% a lot of fitment issues are car to car.

 

02lightnin, your car looks like the last of the 69's based on your born on date huh? What plant did yours? Mines San Jose March 6th 1969. Bruce

 

I'm not sure when they stopped production on the 69's, but mine is a dearborn car. Sounds like you did the same as me with the bracket. On the cross bolt I put a spacer between the bracket and the frame.

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Thanks for the feedback everyone. I may wait a little before I tackle the headers. Just got the warmed up 390 back in the car and I'm not ready to go back into the engine compartment. Time to drive her while the weather is still nice here in NC.

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I have FPA on my FE. I have an AOD trans. which is a big transmission and do not have clearance problems

 

How did you mate the trans to the engine? My headers fit good around the transmission. It's just at the top of the header with the shock towers and the idler arm where it's gets very tight. Bruce

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How did you mate the trans to the engine? My headers fit good around the transmission. It's just at the top of the header with the shock towers and the idler arm where it's gets very tight. Bruce

 

Is your engine already installed? The way to do it is bolt the headers on while the engine is pulled. Lift the engine high enough to tilt 45 degrees nose high. Lower into engine bay slowly leveling the engine as it goes in. It is tight, but it goes in that way.

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The way to do it is bolt the headers on while the engine is pulled. Lift the engine high enough to tilt 45 degrees nose high. Lower into engine bay slowly leveling the engine as it goes in. It is tight, but it goes in that way.

+1 and I have the trans bolted on also with the rear tires on ramps.

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I have it. This is what I have, 69 Mach 1, factory R-Code car, added factory power steering, had to use an adapter plate to mate the AOD to the engine and FPA Tri-y's. Car is not on the road yet, but this is what I see. I had to do a drop bracket to clear the power steering. The tubes on the right side have very very little clearance against the idler arm bracket. I guess I could have sent them back to have this remedied as there is plenty of room for FPA to move these two passenger side tubes in toward the engine but got tired of fighting the install. Very tight fit with about 3/32" clearance between the headers and the shock towers. I have lots of clearance around the transmission, go figure because everyone says the opposite.

 

So that's it in a nut shell. If I could do it over again I think I would not have added the factory P/S and went with Doug's cross over headers. Unfortunately the Doug's crossovers won't work with P/S. Or I might have had a set of cast iron exhaust manifolds extrude honed and stayed with those. Hope that helps.

 

I think a set of long tube headers would be even worse. Ideally, a set of mid-length shorty type headers would be the best for these applications. But no one seems interested in making those and I have no clue why.

 

Bruce

 

Whose AOD and adapter did you use?

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I used an AOD out of a 91 Lincoln Town car and rebuilt it myself. There is only one adaptor plate on the market, it's a Bendtsen. The other way is to use a custom bell housing, hack off the factory bell housing, and bolt the new bell housing onto the front pump. I was just curious which way you went. I think if I do it again, I will go with the bell housing mod. The adapter plate is 1 1/4" thick, which puts it real close to the firewall. I had to spot face the two top transmission bell housing bolts to get enough clearance between the bolt heads and the firewall. I have pics if you would like. Bruce

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