Can I Re-Position R&P setup?

[Monzy 10]

So I have a Steeriods R&P setup in with a 428fe and Hooker supercomp headers. I had to give the headers a decent indent and move the rack over 3/4 - 1" to the driver side and forward 3/8" on the driver side to make this fit around the steering column and factory mechanical clutch linkages. What a job. So the question is will I be able to get correct alignment by doing this?

Edited September 11, 2012 by Monzy

[69gmachine 15]

Not without some other mods. You need to move the passenger side forward the same amount you moved the driver side, and the centerlink will need to be moved over to the passenger side the 3/4 to 1" that you moved the rack housing to keep it centered in the car.

Edited September 11, 2012 by 69gmachine
spelling

[danno 128]

The moving it to the side is not a problem, that can be fixed by changing the length of the inner tie rods (maybe). You might have enough adjustment in them to make it work, but you also might need to make the make the drivers side tie rod shorter and the passengers side longer. I know with Randall's Rack ( which I have) it could be done. You might also be able to fi this by changing the mounting holes of the center linkage. Moving the driver's side forward 3/8 inch should not make any difference.

 

I would find an alignment shop to ask about it. 90% of the places that do alignments will either not do it, or will tell you they can do it when they really cannot. I found a shop in Minneapolis that was very willing to work with me on making sure it was done right. They work with a lot of hot rods and customs, and the wait to get an alignment is several days. Find the right shop, with an older guy who really understands alignment (without the use of a computer) and you should be good to go!

[RPM 1,190]

I believe you will have problems if the rt & lt tie rods are different lengths and the inner pivot points are not in the correct location.

[Monzy 10]

Well I was hoping for something positive as people have been saying these cars were build up to 3/4" out of spec so whats a little here and there going to do when there is more then that in tie rod adjustment. Guess I'll have to eyeball it and get to the alignment shop.

[69gmachine 15]

The moving it to the side is not a problem, that can be fixed by changing the length of the inner tie rods (maybe).

 

Just because there is enough adjustability to compensate for the difference in offset, doesn't mean it is "fixed". The bumpsteer geometry will be wildly different between the two sides, and the short side will probably be dangerous (and possibly both sides will be). Don't do it without taking some bump steer measurements or you could kill someone or yourself. When you have to go to court for manslaghter, will you tell them some guy on the internet said it would be fine?

 

If you don't know how to take bump steer measurements, then you don't know enough to re-engineer your steering.

 

If the rack is out of square with the car, the ackerman, turn rate and turn radius will be different between the two sides. That isn't necessarily bad. Ackerman only comes into play with a high turn rate, which means you will be going slow so you could probably get by with it. If the turn radius to the left is greater than the turn radius to the right, you still might be OK as we drive on the RH side so our LH turns generally have a larger turn radius. However, the J-car rack has a relatively short throw to start with, so losing turn radius on either side will be noticeable. Again, take measurements before taking it out on the road. I don't like to do things half assed; I would make the effort to square the rack in the car.

 

If you take a modified aftermarket, assymetrical steering set up like that to any reputable shop, they should turn you away so they aren't liable.

 

For a while I was modifying my suspension frequently so I ended up learning to align it myself. It's time consuming, but with some simple tools you can do it at home.

[Monzy 10]

Well I'm going to get under there and check to see where square is just to see if the original location was 100% square with the front frame. If its not then I have to move the passenger side forward the 3/8" or whatever it measures. That can be done as moving the passenger side would give a little more room for the hooker headers that miss by a hair. I eye balled the front end today and took it for a couple mile run and seemed nice and tight maybe a little to responsive but I am used to a more slop stock steering. The car did have a slight pull to the left so I can fix that one. I used a level and eyeball and will be looking into doing this alignment at home.

 

As for the bump steer I always thought that was more an issue when lowering the suspension beyond its working limits. I didn't feel any today but only went 2-3 miles

Edited September 13, 2012 by Monzy

[69gmachine 15]

Bump steer results because the arc that the steering linkage goes through is different than the arc that the LCA goes through. When you move the centerlink significantly to one side or the other, the short side will go through a much smaller arc, steering the wheel out as the suspension compresses. That sudden unintentional steering input can cause your car to jump into the next lane or to the shoulder of the road.

[danno 128]

I am not sure if this is an effective way to measure bump steer issuses, but you turn the wheel all the way in one direction and somehow mark the angle the wheel is with respect to the car. Then put some weight on your front bumper on one side ( to lower that side) and see if the angle of the tire with respect to the car changes. Then as an additional test, put a jack under that corner of the car and take weight off that wheel. Again, watch for the angle of the wheel to change as weight is removed from the wheel.

[Monzy 10]

Well I've been out on the road long enough to have noticed any bump steer and haven't felt any pull of the steering wheel when the suspension is travelling threw corners or bumps and the tie rods from Steeriods already have bump steer adjusters on the rod ends so they can be adjusted to be parallel to the lower control arm. I think I lost some turning radius from left to right though. Either way you wouldn't want to try and pull straight in between two parked cars in a tight lot with little turn radius as you'd be backing up at least once. I think I'll do my final welding on the bracket and keep the rack where it is. I haven't got under there yet to check for square but I will. I have to find a pulley for my power steering pump then I'll be able to see what this rack feels like with power. Manual is really nice while moving. Better then my manual factory rack but the factory was a touch easier to turn when stopped.

[RPM 1,190]

The method to check bump steer I was taught is easiest done w/the coil spring removed. At ride height check the toe, loer the susp and check toe, raise susp fully and check toe. I don't remember the acceptable tolerances, but a google search will work.

[Monzy 10]

Yes that would definitely make things easier to move around to see bump steer.