Need some Vac Hose assistance

[MikeStang 247]

Ok as you all may know im putting the factory AC back on a friends car.....I have the ford svc manual, but i dont see anything in it about the following items.

#1 The two hoses that come out of the vac canister under the pass fender....I know where the one that goes into the pass compartment hooks to, but where does the other go....Im assumnig it hooks into the vac tee on the rear of the motor.

#2 Which nipple on the vac canister goes to the motor and which goes into the car....i have 2 vac hoses hanging out of the fire wall, and not sure which goes where....i think one of the hoses coming from the firewall goes to the Tee at the motor, and one to the vac canister, which in turn has one going to the motor...

So whats what?

Mike

[LindenBruce 27]

The purple striped hose goes to the small nipple on your vacuum canister. The other hose goes to the heater control valve located in the heater hose. The large nipple on the vacuum canister goes to a ported intake vacuum source at the back of the intake manifold. Bruce

[MikeStang 247]

You da man Bruce

Thanks

[MikeStang 247]

Don't think I have ported vac on the back of my manifold, think it's all full vac....what now?

[LindenBruce 27]

Okay, my mistake. You need a constant vacuum source from the intake. I used the wrong terminology. Full vacuum is what you need. Sorry. Bruce

[MikeStang 247]

Thanks Bruce.....

I have a few more questions maybe u can help with.

I got the parts to put this car together from the owner. There are a few things I'm unsure of.

1. The condenser he had is a tube style condenser, not a plate style. It makes the dryer sit high and had to tweak the dryer hard line to fit it through the hole in the core support. But I think ican make it work....aren't the tub styles more efficient and better?

2. The compressor he had is new but it had the wrong clutch pulley on it so I swapped it out to the correct one.....the compressor is a reman 4 seasons unit, and I think it will do R12 or 134a.

I know compressors usually don't come with oil, so I opened the screw on the side...its actually on the side, but when its installed its on the top....stuck a zip tie in all the way to the bottom, and it showed oil 1" up the tie.....seems like a good bit since its new compressor....should I dump and start over or just add more to correct level.

I'm wondering how well the system will work if I convert it to 134and still use the evaporator core thats in the car.

Mike

[LindenBruce 27]

Our vintage cars came with tube and fin condensers. That's all they used back then. If the parts are correct for your car you should not have to make any mods.

 

Four Seasons is a good brand. I have used their stuff on more than one occasion.

 

So, the oil is one inch below the hole or one inch up from the bottom as you measured it? If it's the former you should be fine. I would add some oil just to be sure. There should be a tag on the compressor telling you how much oil should be used. I would also flush out the evaporator and lines with some compressed air to make sure they are clear. If you add oil make sure and you use PAG or R134 compatible oil.

 

The system will work with R134. The hard parts don't care which gas you use. It's the o-rings used to seal the connections and the hoses that give a darn. R134 is a smaller molecule and thus it leaks out through those parts. If you have the original hoses and flex lines still on the car, I would change them out. Use new R134 compatible o-rings at all connections. Vac down the system for at least an hour. Then charge and run the system. You will have higher pressures using R134 but don't worry the system can take it. Also, you will need about 75% of the R134 freon as compared to R12. Bruce

[danno 128]

Mike,

I am not sure about the plate style condenser. I thought they are all tube styles inside. Is this the factory compressor for 1969? Then the oil level check should be in the book. If it is anything else, you better contact the manufacturer to verify teh correct oil and level of it. Some of the R12 oils will not work with R134. You also need to determine now if you are going to use R12 or R134. The o rings on the seals between every hose opening needs to be changed if you use R134. The gas molecules of R134 are smaller and can penetrate through the o-ring material of a R12 o-ring.

[MikeStang 247]

Well im pretty sure that the condensor for our cars is of a flat plate style design, mine was origional and the repops i see are origional, but the one the customer gave me is tube design, i would think this would be a more efficient design since it will mean more surface area and better flow since the coils are not stacked on top of eachother with very little space in between.

On the Compressor oil, when i checked it, it had a 1" of oil in it measured from the bottom up, not from the top down...so basically it has one inch of oil in the bottom lol.

The hoses i just ordered are 134A compliant, i just dont know what kinda oil this reman compressor has in it....think i should dump it out and put fresh oil in....all of the components are new except the evap core, which i will flush out with some of the compressed flush and then blow it out with air. So i know i will need to add additional oil to the compressor to compensate for the dryer, and evap coil.

What kinda oil should i put in the compressor i know yall said AG oil, but isnt there different weights of pag for 134, or is that just R12 that has different weights.....i was never very clear on the oil type when using old style compressors and 134 freon.

Mike