Power steering repair/replacement?

[TexasEd 194]

Has anyone rebuilt a factory power steering gear box or replaced with factory style or Borgeson?

 

I think the Borgeson requires modification to the steering column length and is between $550 and $820 depending on what you get.

 

I'd like to try rebuilding the factory box myself ; The parts for the rebuild can be as low as $70 but I don't know what I'd be getting myself into.

 

http://www.stangerssite.com/GBparts.html

[TexasEd 194]

Has anyone rebuilt a factory power steering gear box or replaced with factory style or Borgeson?

 

I think the Borgeson requires modification to the steering column length and is between $550 and $820 depending on what you get.

 

I'd like to try rebuilding the factory box myself ; The parts for the rebuild can be as low as $70 but I don't know what I'd be getting myself into.

 

http://www.stangerssite.com/GBparts.html

[Big Secz 26]

I have installed a Borgeson kit in my car recently. I have a thread on here in the Garage section. Just search "Borgeson install for beginners". I documented the entire install as well as problems that I encountered with the install.

 

For the most part it wasn't bad to install. I'm still not completely satisfied with the results. I have one last thing to try and that is to replace my existing power steering fluid with a synthetic. I talked to another mechanic that informed me that the conventional p/s fluid that I'm using has a tendency to aerate (create air bubbles). Something that the synthetics don't do. One of the things that I do like about the swap is that you have less areas for leaks. In fact I haven't had one leak since the swap.

[Big Secz 26]

I have installed a Borgeson kit in my car recently. I have a thread on here in the Garage section. Just search "Borgeson install for beginners". I documented the entire install as well as problems that I encountered with the install.

 

For the most part it wasn't bad to install. I'm still not completely satisfied with the results. I have one last thing to try and that is to replace my existing power steering fluid with a synthetic. I talked to another mechanic that informed me that the conventional p/s fluid that I'm using has a tendency to aerate (create air bubbles). Something that the synthetics don't do. One of the things that I do like about the swap is that you have less areas for leaks. In fact I haven't had one leak since the swap.

[1969 Mach1 14]

The originial power steering gear box is fairly easy to rebuild as there are not many parts inside. A few things to keep in mind are: (1) You will need a dial type inch pounds torque meter or beam type inch pounds torque wrench. You will need one of these to measure rotating torque on the steering wheel shaft (known as the worm shaft) when setting the worm bearing preload and sector shaft preload. (2) Get a copy of the Ford service manual. It has detailed instructions and specs. (3) The worm bearings ride on the worm shaft and wear the worm shaft. Unfortunately, not much can be done for that.

[1969 Mach1 14]

The originial power steering gear box is fairly easy to rebuild as there are not many parts inside. A few things to keep in mind are: (1) You will need a dial type inch pounds torque meter or beam type inch pounds torque wrench. You will need one of these to measure rotating torque on the steering wheel shaft (known as the worm shaft) when setting the worm bearing preload and sector shaft preload. (2) Get a copy of the Ford service manual. It has detailed instructions and specs. (3) The worm bearings ride on the worm shaft and wear the worm shaft. Unfortunately, not much can be done for that.

[TexasEd 194]

I might be worried about #3, the worm gears being worn since there is no tightness in the center portion of the steering. I'll take it off and see what is up with it.

 

Does anyone know the differences between the Flaming River box and the Borgeson?

[TexasEd 194]

I might be worried about #3, the worm gears being worn since there is no tightness in the center portion of the steering. I'll take it off and see what is up with it.

 

Does anyone know the differences between the Flaming River box and the Borgeson?

[1969 Mach1 14]

The lack of tightness through "center steering" you are talking about is due to lack of sector shaft preload. Very common issue from normal wear in the sector gear and worm gear. This is adjusted via the adjustment screw with the lock nut on top of the steering box. When I was younger and worked as a mechanic it was common to just tighten up that adjustment 1/4 to 1/2 turn during a front end alignment to compensate for wear. When I rebuilt mine, the worm shaft had wear from the bearings. I was able to lightly polish the bearing areas of the worm shaft on a lathe and remove most of the wear. It assembled and all preloads set with no issues and it operates just fine.

Edited August 23, 2011 by 1969 Mach1

[1969 Mach1 14]

The lack of tightness through "center steering" you are talking about is due to lack of sector shaft preload. Very common issue from normal wear in the sector gear and worm gear. This is adjusted via the adjustment screw with the lock nut on top of the steering box. When I was younger and worked as a mechanic it was common to just tighten up that adjustment 1/4 to 1/2 turn during a front end alignment to compensate for wear. When I rebuilt mine, the worm shaft had wear from the bearings. I was able to lightly polish the bearing areas of the worm shaft on a lathe and remove most of the wear. It assembled and all preloads set with no issues and it operates just fine.

Edited August 23, 2011 by 1969 Mach1

[Max Power 74]

I might be worried about #3, the worm gears being worn since there is no tightness in the center portion of the steering. I'll take it off and see what is up with it.

 

Does anyone know the differences between the Flaming River box and the Borgeson?

 

 

The factory steering box is just a manual steering box with two different ratios, one for manual steering cars (I believe 19:1) and one for power steering cars (16:1). They are designed exactly the same, just different ratios. Ford power steering for Mustangs uses a control valve, a power steering ram, all bolted to your steering linkage, externally from the steering box, with a whole lot of leaky hoses to make the connections. It's a lousy design.

 

The Borgeson kit converts your power steering to a GM style, where all the hydraulics are internal in the steering box, with only two hoses going to and from the pump. The upside? Far fewer parts, fewer hoses to leak, better smoother operation. It's a better design. The downside? The Borgeson PS box is bigger than the Mustang manual boxes, meaning it takes more space, meaning the conversion often means shortened steering shafts, modified headers and no Z-Bar clutches. You also need a GM style pump, which is the higher pressure the Borgeson needs, but does not look OEM if you are into the show thing.

 

They are different systems in design, and you have to go with one or the other. The Flaming River box is just a standard steering box just like the OE boxes. Most people that buy them mistakenly think all the slop in their steering is in the box, when it is usually in the control valve or steering linkage. Factory boxes rarely wear out. They are stout and the bearings are not under much load. Make sure your box really has a problem before messing with it. Odds are your problems are elsewhere.

[Max Power 74]

I might be worried about #3, the worm gears being worn since there is no tightness in the center portion of the steering. I'll take it off and see what is up with it.

 

Does anyone know the differences between the Flaming River box and the Borgeson?

 

 

The factory steering box is just a manual steering box with two different ratios, one for manual steering cars (I believe 19:1) and one for power steering cars (16:1). They are designed exactly the same, just different ratios. Ford power steering for Mustangs uses a control valve, a power steering ram, all bolted to your steering linkage, externally from the steering box, with a whole lot of leaky hoses to make the connections. It's a lousy design.

 

The Borgeson kit converts your power steering to a GM style, where all the hydraulics are internal in the steering box, with only two hoses going to and from the pump. The upside? Far fewer parts, fewer hoses to leak, better smoother operation. It's a better design. The downside? The Borgeson PS box is bigger than the Mustang manual boxes, meaning it takes more space, meaning the conversion often means shortened steering shafts, modified headers and no Z-Bar clutches. You also need a GM style pump, which is the higher pressure the Borgeson needs, but does not look OEM if you are into the show thing.

 

They are different systems in design, and you have to go with one or the other. The Flaming River box is just a standard steering box just like the OE boxes. Most people that buy them mistakenly think all the slop in their steering is in the box, when it is usually in the control valve or steering linkage. Factory boxes rarely wear out. They are stout and the bearings are not under much load. Make sure your box really has a problem before messing with it. Odds are your problems are elsewhere.