foothilltom 33 Report post Posted January 6, 2010 Howdy Gents, just ordered a hood pin kit from Scott Drake. I'm confused about two things: 1. The kit doesn't appear to contain any hardware for attaching the lanyard to the front part of the frame. The advertising image shows what appears to be a sheet metal screw (maybe a bolt) and a washer to hold the lanyard next to the hood pin. Should this hardware be in the kit or do they leave that to your imagination? [ATTACH]5930[/ATTACH] 2. How does one attach the lanyard to the ring/pin? The lanyard is separate from the ring in the packaging. Do I pull the ring apart and loop it around (hoping not to destroy the ring in the process) or somehow pull the lanyard cable out of the little aluminum looking thing that snugs up the cable (without destroying that in the process)? [ATTACH]5931[/ATTACH] Thanks mucho. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tony 63C 14 Report post Posted January 6, 2010 Hi Tom, Re your two questions: 1) I suppose Scott Drake assumes that the original lanyard attaching hardware still exists. My car has two small hex nuts (of the type that holds the cowling panel down behind the hood) and washers. I suspect this is correct, but am in the process of confirming this (among other things) tonight when I go out to see a concourse restored ’69 mach 1. 2) Don’t try disassembling the lanyard. You’ll need to pull the ring out of one of its saddles in the pin. The process of getting the ring back into place is a bit tricky as it’s easy to scratch the pin surface. I ended up putting the ring in my bench vice in between two pieces of wood and it all went easily after that. Regards, Tony Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
foothilltom 33 Report post Posted January 6, 2010 Thanks very much, Tony, for the great info. I figured for $80, everything should be included and as close to original as possible. Scott Drake is going to send me the missing hex nuts/washers for the cowling attachment. I'll use your idea for separating the pin from the ring. I tried gently pulling on it last night and bailed out for fear of tweaking the metal ring. Thanks again and Happy New Year. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tony 63C 14 Report post Posted January 6, 2010 You’re most welcome Tom. Glad to be able to return the favor. Thus far I’ve been more of taker than a giver, so it feels good to contribute at least a little for a change. As far as tweaking the metal ring on disassembly and installation, it’s actually quite a robust piece. The tricky part is getting it back into the saddle without scratching up the pin. That’s where the vice helps in keep it steady as you use finger strength to carefully put it back into place. I’ll post a follow up re my finding when I check out the concourse mach tonight. Cheers, Tony Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PaleRider 12 Report post Posted January 7, 2010 Another tips is ditch the sheet metal screws for small stainless bolts - Ace carries them. Sheet Metal screws tend to work loose. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
foothilltom 33 Report post Posted January 7, 2010 Say, while we're discussing the fine points, should the lanyards themselves be all tightly coiled like a pig's tail? That's how they come in the packaging and I'm wondering if that will look strange as the lanyard will try to curl up. Do folks straighten them out first, or perhaps do they straighten out on their own over time? Wondering...the stainless bolts are a great idea....i could see these screws coming out over time. But the kit looks really cool...almost installed. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tony 63C 14 Report post Posted January 8, 2010 Hi again Tom, . . . should the lanyards themselves be all tightly coiled like a pig's tail? . . . Do folks straighten them out first, or perhaps do they straighten out on their own over time? I straightened mine out by putting the small loop end over a nail in the wall and slipping a hammer handle through the ring at the pin end to hold the hammer head. I let them hang there like that for several weeks. There is now only a slight coiling ‘memory’, and I installed the lanyard so that this coiling tendency is in the correct direction. . . . Wondering...the stainless bolts are a great idea....i could see these screws coming out over time. . . As for me, I have been stressing to keep things as close to stock as possible, so I would keep the original factory fasteners providing they are the original ones. But to each his own. Good luck the rest of the way! Regards, Tony Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
foothilltom 33 Report post Posted January 8, 2010 Thanks, Tony. I'm going to straighten out my lanyards as you describe. Right now, they coil up way too tight. I currently have just the stainless screws installed (no washers) and I like the look. Does this match what you saw on the concourse Mach? And one last question: how about the orientation of the pin hole? I saw that most folks here counseled you to go with a front-to-back orientation but most of the pictures I saw online were side-to-side. I tried to rationalize that the pitch of hood is pretty steep going front to back and that side-to-side is less steep so the pins should go that way so they appear more "level" with respect to the hood. Wondering what you saw out in the real world. Thanks in advance. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangmaniac2 10 Report post Posted January 8, 2010 I have 2 different pictures of 2 different car I saw at Bob Perkins and the pin holes are front to back. I do not know how to post them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
foothilltom 33 Report post Posted January 9, 2010 Thanks, Mustangmaniac. No need to dig up the pictures, I take your word for it. I feel a 90 degree turn of my 7/8" wrench coming! Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tony 63C 14 Report post Posted January 10, 2010 I currently have just the stainless screws installed (no washers) and I like the look. Does this match what you saw on the concourse Mach? It turns out I had misunderstood. This fellow restores Mustangs, and at present all he has is cars in various stages of restoration. The concourse restored ’69 was sold. But the cars there were an eyeful – among them 70 Boss 429, 69 GT350 convertible, 69 428CJ mach1, 70 Pro Street mach1, etc. Wow! how about the orientation of the pin hole? I saw that most folks here counseled you to go with a front-to-back orientation but most of the pictures I saw online were side-to-side. It’s the front to back alignment I seem to see most commonly on the ‘correct’ cars. But not in every case. The clincher for me was the cover photo for the Ford 1969 mach1 brochure. There’s no questioning the picture on the cover, which has the front to back alignment (see below). Regards, Tony Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kazlaszlo 10 Report post Posted January 11, 2010 Tom It is very easy to open the large ring that holds the pin. Slip the loop of the layniard. I have seen the other end attached to the hood bumpers. That is what I have done on my '69.Take bottom nut & washer off, pull the bumper assembly up,, place the layniard loop around the shaft, under the rubber bumper. Reinstall the assembly. Kaz Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
foothilltom 33 Report post Posted January 11, 2010 Hey Kaz, thanks for the tip about anchoring the lanyard to the hood bumper/stop gizmo! I'm gonna go see how that goes right now. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites