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foothilltom

Timing Cover Oil Seal - should it be this hard?

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The boy's coupe drips oil right below the vibration damper and with lots of help from Print Dad (didn't want to bother you with this one since you seem to have your hands full with that heater core), we've diagnosed the culprit to most likely be the oil seal.

 

I've taken a million things off, including the vibration damper and thought I could pull the seal out from the front. All my chevy friends seem to think this is the way it works, but it looks like I have to remove the timing cover to get at this seal. Does it install from the inside out?

 

If so, how much of Pandora's box am I opening here? I would really like the boy's car not to leak on my driveway, but am beginning to wonder if I'm creating more headache that it's worth.

 

Comments, hints, etc. are very welcome.

 

Tom

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Tom, on older small block Fords the front seal is installed from the back side of the timing cover..the cover will need to come off. It can be tricky because the oil pan bolts to the front cover also and there is a rubber seal between the cover and pan that is a slight pain to get back in. But on the ther hand, removing the cover will give you a chance to replace all the gaskets related to the timing cover and check the timing chain. Also check the balancer for a deep groove on the snout where the seal rides. Good luck.

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Yea, its not bad at all. Just get a puller, and remove the balancer. Pick up a timing chain cover gasket kit, which will inclued the water pump gaskets and take it all apart. Make sure you get all of the water out of the engine before pulling the timing cover or you will get water in the oil. You could try to blow it out with pressurized air before removing your hoses and pump.

 

Get some permatex. You will remove the timing cover (be sure to keep in mind which bolts go where) then cut the old oil pan gasket where it hangs out under the cover. Then clean everything well and put the new piece of gasket there with a good bit of rtv in the corners and a bead top and bottom or it will leak again.

 

When you put the new oil seal into the cover you will have to tap it into place with a small hammer, just be sure the little coil spring retainer thing stays on the seal when you slide it back onto the crank. Also put lots of oil on the crank and the seal before sliding it on. When I built my motor I didnt oil the seal and it leaked everywhere. But it only took me about 40 minutes to change it out, so again, its not a bad job to do, and it will give you a chance to paint your cover and waterpump if they are ugly. In fact you could just paint the whole engine if you wanted.. afterall you will have all the hoses off.

 

Just another one of those "while you are at it" things.. Good luck

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