Drum Brakes - basic help needed

[foothilltom 33]

Hey Gents, I'm trying to better understand how to inspect/adjust my brakes and I have a few dumb questions. (I'm looking at this as a learning experience and am happy to pay professionals to make my car stop if I don't feel like I can do this safely myself).

 

This coupe has front disk, rear drums. I've replaced the master cylinder when the pedal wouldn't move at all. I did NOT replace the power booster though now I'm wondering if I should have.

 

I've driven this thing maybe 30 miles since I've taken over, and it *does* stop, but the feel is not good and I figured I'd take a look.

 

Removing the drum today, I see quite a bit of rust on the lining (it's not clean at all) which tells me the pads haven't been engaging for some time. I lightly sanded the lining and it's in great shape (no excessive wear) and was able to restore the dull, smooth sheen of the lining.

 

The strange thing -- hence my question -- I don't see any movement at all in the brake pad mechanism when I press the pedal. Nothing. The pedal is really stiff w/out the car running (it's currently not in running state) and I'm wondering if the engine has to be running to see the pads move.

 

Should I be able to see the pads moving by just pressing the pedal with the car off? I've loosened the bleeder screw and see that brake fluid comes out readily when i press the pedal (no bubbles).

 

This car sat for 20+ years in storage, so would the brake cylinder go bad with time? Could the cylinder explain the total lack of movement?

 

If I depress the parking brake, I see the system move easily.

 

In short, I'm hoping for some basic tips here about what I *should* be able to see with the car off and what I might consider replacing first.

 

I have my Mustang shop manual and have read it front and back, but it doesn't really discuss this.

 

Thanks in advance as always.

Tom

[Grabber70Mach 107]

First you would be able to see the brakes move when applying the E-brake as this is a mechanical function and does not use the hydraulics of the brake fluid. In short I think your wheel cylinders are probably frozen and will need to be rebuilt or replaced.

[Fordrevhead 29]

yeah if it's been sitting that long just go ahead and buy rebuilt wheel cylinders for the rear drums. I would also (at minimum) replace ALL the fluid in the lines with a good thorough bleeding... if not replacing all the lines even. I have seen them totally plugged with rust and they wont bleed. You dont want to push this junk into the new cylinders regardless.

[69RestoRod 10]

For the cost I'd slap in some new wheel cylinders as well. Use the correct line wrench on the brake lines or you're sure to strip them,. Scuff up the shoes with the some sand paper also. The cylinder pushes out on the top of the shoes when you press the brake pedal and the E brake presses out on the bottom when you push the E brake pedal. It's very basic but those springs make them hell to work on.

 

Check out Rockauto.com the cheapest ones are $5 and the high dollar ones are only $17. You've mentioned that parts store is a bit out of the way. Use and abuse the cheap rates available on the internet and have parts delivered to you're door while you're working. Heck I've had parts sent to work to make sure they can be signed for, with the Boss' ok. Me and several buddies have had good luck with Rockauto.

[foothilltom 33]

Thanks, gents. After reading all this, it makes sense now. The little pistons that come out of the sides of the cylinders aren't moving at all. I see how this now makes the shoes move. They will definitely need replacing. I should have mentioned this before, but I did bleed the brakes a month or two back when i replaced the master cylinder and the fluid in there is new. The old fluid came out clear (but with tons of bubbles) so I'm hoping the lines can stay, but I might take that on too.

 

I continue to learn every time I post here. Thanks all!

Tom