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69mustang351W

Rebuilding an autolite 2100 carburetor

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I have a problem with my mustang; when I f.ex are gonna pass a car in 50 mph, when I have to give extra throttle, the engine doesnt really work. I have to be very smooth with the gas pedal to get it work.

So I just ordered a repairing kit and a new fuel filter for my autolite 2100 carburetor, because rebuilding the carburetor may help.Some of the new parts are not 100% identical compared with the old parts. The new fuel inlet needle seat has an extra hole, you can see what I mean by the images I have added. The piston in the new power valve is about 1 mm wider in diameter, the spring needs less pressure than the old one to come down and the 2 holes on each side is either not identical. Its also images of these parts. On all the 4 images, the new parts is on the left side. The total length and width is identical to these parts, so it will fit. Is it ok to use these parts?

 

The new diaphragm to the accelerator pump is identical to the old one.

 

Could new ignition plugs also help to get better acceleration?

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Hello. Does your car have an automatic transmission? If so, when you are passing a car at 50, are you pushing the accelerator pedal to the floor? The reason I ask is Mustangs with automatic transmissions should have a "kick down" lever which is a rod that runs from the carburetor on the drivers side down to the transmission on the drivers side. The purpose of the "kick down" lever is to force the transmission to down shift or to "kick down" to a lower gear when the accelerator pedal is pressed to the floor. This helps immensely with passing cars when you need extra acceleration. Before rebuilding the carb, check to see if this rod is in place AND adjusted properly. If you have an automatic transmission, you may find this is all you need to make your car pass other cars better at higher speeds. I would be happy to help with any questions.

Jeff

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I want to use my autolite carburetor, the engine worked good most of the summer 2009, but the in last weeks, something happened, I dont know what. My mustang has automatic transmission, and off course, the kick down rod is there. I also replaced the fuel filter on the carburetor, the car may also has an in-line fuel filter. Im gonna check it.

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no offense intended but in an effort to try to help... your description of the acceleration problem is a little cryptic. Poor ignition or vacuum advance, etc. will create a need for less fuel... gassing it will cause stumbling, sputtering (flooding)... easing the pedal (while still running rich) may seem to work. Just thought I would mention this, as I am not convinced on this end it is carburetion.

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I have already rebuilt the carburetor. The engine worked a bit better, but not much.Yes, Im also gonna check the plugs, have bought new plugs to replace the old plugs.Maybe it is something wrong there.I guess the vacum advance is ok, but Ill gonna check that also.

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Are you connected to the correct hole on the throttle linkage bracket that is on the driver's side of the car? I think it's supposed to be 3rd from the bottom??? Maybe that is affecting how things are working.

 

I wish like heck I could remember what caused the exact same thing with my car about 10 years ago. Mine is a 302 2bbl with auto as well. It couldn't have been much because I don't remember doing any major repairs.

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Well, the plugs is now replaced and the engine is running much better, but not 100% as I want. The old plugs was black; I guess wrong air/fuel mixture for the idle is wrong or maybe is it simply that I have been driving many short cruisings in the town. Longer rides is also necessary to get the engine "cleaned". Now I plan to adjust the fuel level in the bowl with the float (wet) and adjusting the idle air/fuel-mixture screws, and maybe then it will run even better. Im gonna check the throttle linkage also.

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After reading this again I was going to suggest exactly what you just wrote. Your air/fuel mixture is off if the plugs were all black, did you notice any smoke as well under acceleration? The float adjustment will probably solve your problems with the car becoming sluggish under acceleration. The car is probably getting "flooded" when you mash the pedal.

 

I'd also spray some WD-40 or similar on your vacuum lines to see if you can discover a vacuum leak, so to elimanate a leak as an issue. I'm sure you know, but just in case, with the car running spray the lines and connectors. If the rpms increase then you have found the source of a vacuum leak.

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I adjusted the float and the idle mixture screws, and the engine runs good. Ive stored the car for the winter now, and its good to know that the engine works. I may do a small adjustment for the timing and a check of the vacuum lines when the spring begins.

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