Dash Pad is off and I'm stuck

[ETstang 10]

While the dash pad is off - want to clean up back there and change the lighting to LED's - but the instrument panel ass'y does not just slide/pull out easlly - what is dummy-here missing ?? :scared: Don't want to yank on it - do I have to crawl underneath to disconnect something I can't see from the top??

HELP

Thx

Dick

[mikem 13]

OK, this will sound silly but did you remove the four small bolts that secure the panel to the dash? Probably did. In that case, the only thing holding the instrument panel in place is the electrical plug-in to the instruments and the speedo cable. The electrical connection is in the area about where the oil gauge is. The speedo cable has a push in style disconnect. Don't pull on it or try to pry the tabs outward or you will break it. Push in and pull with a little wiggling. Use a flashlight and when you pull out on the instrument panel you will see what i'm talking about. At the top and bottom of the electrical connection, you will pinch the tabs toward the center of the connection to release it. On mine, the speedo cable does not have a lot of slack so it seems that there is something else holding the panel to the dash. It should pull forward enough for you to get your hand back there to release both items. If not, you might need to disconnect the cable at the trans and feed some slack through the firewall while pulling on the panel. Good luck.

[Jurisd 10]

This might be even sillier, but, assuming you are talking about a '69 dash, there are three or four screws underneath the instrument panel as well (at least, on mine). I just did this clean-up project (and a failed attempt to get some gauges working) last week.

 

One thing to be careful of - when you go to remove the wiring harness from the instrument cluster, be very careful in pulling the connector out. There are pins on the top/bottom to push in to release the connector. But once you separate it, you will see that the instrument printed circuit board copper connectors are simply "folded into" the hole for the connector. So, it is easy to mangle them all up and have to buy a whole new printed circuit panel. I got lucky the first time, but not sure I can take the instruments out too many more times before tragedy strikes...

[mikem 13]

This might be even sillier, but, assuming you are talking about a '69 dash, there are three or four screws underneath the instrument panel as well (at least, on mine). I just did this clean-up project (and a failed attempt to get some gauges working) last week.

 

One thing to be careful of - when you go to remove the wiring harness from the instrument cluster, be very careful in pulling the connector out. There are pins on the top/bottom to push in to release the connector. But once you separate it, you will see that the instrument printed circuit board copper connectors are simply "folded into" the hole for the connector. So, it is easy to mangle them all up and have to buy a whole new printed circuit panel. I got lucky the first time, but not sure I can take the instruments out too many more times before tragedy strikes...

 

The only screws in plain sight on the face side of the instrument panel, not underneath, as i referred to earlier. You are correct about the connector and squeezing top and bottom "pins" at the same time toward the middle of the harness to disconnect. I just wanted to clarify so that he does not try to find screws under or behind the panel.

[ETstang 10]

OK - good info - thanks guys - back to the project

I did take off the four screws that hold the ass'y in place.

I forgot about the speedo - but the panel does not come forward (backwards ??) without much slack - looks like a trip underneath to disconnect at the tranny

And thanks for the watch on the electrical

Dick

[ND69 13]

Have you tied removing the speedo grommet at the firewall, this worked for me, freed enough cable to allow the cluster to move forward,

Cheers

[Boogerschnot 12]

Just reach back there and pinch the little lever on the speedo cable and pull it out.

[ETstang 10]

Two great notes from Booger and ND69 - but I ended up under the car to loosen the brackets that hold the speedo cable in place - finally got some slack and we had the Ass'y out. Put the LED's in place - reconnect and a couple of spots have no light -

 

Question - I have a 12v supply - Can I bench test this whole unit with my 12v - if so, which wire on the pc board is the ground? would like to make sure all LEDs are working before putting the dash piece back in place.

 

Thanks guys - this is really going better thatn I expected - and some of these 1969 connections and arrangements are pretty damn fine for 40 years ago

:-)

DIck

[Jurisd 10]

Hmm. Not an expert, but I recall reading in my shop manuals about the IVR (instrument voltage regulator, if memory serves). The manual said that it is easy to fry that thing if you ground or power the wrong thing. If it were me, I would rather do the testing iteratively (even if I have to yank the dash two or three times) than have to buy a new IVR.

 

If you are less risk averse than I am, you might try to identify the ground lead on either the connector or the panel, and then run a voltmeter or test light to each of the pins on the connector (ignition on). Switch the headlights on/off, and see which pin(s) on the connector goes live. Chances are good that if you apply 12v to that (and ground to the circuit board) you will be able to light it up. Good luck with that...:whistling:

[cphsonic 11]

Are you running the LEDs from the stock 12V or the (so called) 5V supply in the gauge pod? The 5V wont work as its a really old school switching regulator. Do yourself a favor of converting to a modern transistor reg. Instructions here: http://www.centroidproducts.com/mustang.htm

Took all of an hour on mine.

Pinout for the dash lights attached.

[ND69 13]

I had this issue when I replaced my blown lamps, Remove the cluster disconnect the speedo but leave the loomed plug in, carefull remove the non working lamp and swap it with a working one, if the lamp works its either a bad lamp holder the little tabs are very weak, If the "good" lamp does not work the pc connection could be dirty or a poor connection, clean the tabs and carefully raise them a little caution the can break off, lucky I had spares.

Also check the non working lamp in a "working" socket could be a faulty lamp

The Updated Voltage and LED's will be on my list when i next pull my cluster, top upgrade..

 

What color did you get, Let us know end result is like..

 

Hope this is helpfull

Cheers

[bcorbin 10]

Depending on how familiar you are with a volt/ohm meter I WOULD definately consider testing this all on the bench with your 12 volt supply. Jurisd makes a good point in that if you connect something incorrectly you could fry the VR or worse yet your guages. As for which is the ground trace, using the ohm meter or visually, determine which trace (or on my 69 no tach) which two traces goes to each light. Ground is attached to one side of each of the lights. In my case as I recall there were two traces that got their ground connection with a screw/washer that made ground connection when they screwed into the metal instrument panel housing.

 

As a somewhat related (or not) side note I replaced the VR with a small switching power supply that is very efficient and puts out exactly 5 volts with an input anywhere from 7 volts to 24 volts. The supply was about $50. I set it up so that it plugs in to where the old VR plugs in using a cable I had to make. It is too large to mount where the old VR is so you have to adapt to that.

[mikem 13]

I used a 9 volt battery to test my lights before and after installation since they can be installed in reverse polarity. The after installation test was at each individual light. If the individual light doesnt light up then reverse your clips or wires. If it still doesnt light up, check the tabs on the light socket and check to make sure the bulb is seated correctly. Just for info, I'm attaching a wiring reference guide from JME Enterprises. It identifies the colored wires going into the instrument panel harness. Maybe you can figure out how to attach the power source with this?? Good luck.

[ETstang 10]

OK - doin real good with your help -coming down to the wire to put the dash back together for a show this week-end - I have replaced all the white lamps with blue LED's (Amber LED's for the Directionals) and everything is working EXCEPT the dam Hi-Beam lite. I have a new Blue LED in the socket - but even with all the little changes you can make to the connections - cleaning surfaces - spring the connections open, etc. - it ain't working..

I took JURISD suggestion "do the testing iteratively (even if I have to yank the dash two or three times" - Yep the dash has been in and out about a dozen times - but it was worth it - all good except that Hi-Beam

I do have a new Light Switch ready to go - might this be the Hi-Beam issue????

 

Thanks so much

Dick