Rear window frame rust repair questions...

[Chappy 18]

Got a couple of spots of rust around the rear window opening that need to be fixed before things go back together (that will be a while!). I was wondering what people though was probably the easiest/best way to do them.

 

First is at the bottom passenger side corner, it's a tough spot to get into and cut/weld/grind, so I'm not sure the best way of doing this one (might just need to get a smaller tool for the job (dremel maybe?)

 

 

The second one is on the passenger side right at the lead seam at the quarter to roof joint... this one has me a little more baffled on how to fix. If I weld in a patch I'm going to melt the lead...

 

 

Any input would be appreciated!

 

Thanks

[03GT69 10]

You may have to take your chances on melting the lead in order to patch that hole by the seam. You can try to reduce the melting by putting a wet rag over the lead. Eastwood makes a body solder kit that would help out in repairing any of the lead that becomes melted.

 

Maybe a dremel cutoff wheel could get all the old metal out of that corner section. Good luck!

[Pakrat 1,043]

I seem to recall an episode of Musclecar not too long ago that was making repairs just like this and I think they used brass or bronze rod to mend the small holes because it melts at half the heat setting or something like that anyway, maybe you can look it up or someone else may recall it better than I.

[bnickel 10,004]

it's called silicon bronze and that's exactly what i would use for the small holes. on the bigger hole just cut it out and make a patch to match it and tack it in a little a time, do 2 or 3 tacks at a time and let it cool for a few minutes then do 2 or 3 more and so on until you have that area repaired and you won't melt the lead much if at all

[Chappy 18]

Thanks for the info. I'm assuming you would then just fill the area between the patch and lead with the silicon bronze as well?

[bnickel 10,004]

no you'll have to weld the patch on with a mig or tig or whatever, the silicon bronze probably isn't a good choice to attach the patch

[Chappy 18]

I guess I'm confused, I'm assuming I can't mig weld the patch to the lead, is that correct? If I can't, I'll need to put some sort of filler between the patch and the lead. That's where I'm confused.

 

If I can weld to the lead itself, it's not a big deal I guess.

[Pakrat 1,043]

it's called silicon bronze and that's exactly what i would use for the small holes. on the bigger hole just cut it out and make a patch to match it and tack it in a little a time, do 2 or 3 tacks at a time and let it cool for a few minutes then do 2 or 3 more and so on until you have that area repaired and you won't melt the lead much if at all

 

That's what I was thinking of, I knew B would probably know exactly what it was. I wonder if I can use that stuff to patch the pinholes in my memory these days???:huh:

[bnickel 10,004]

I guess I'm confused, I'm assuming I can't mig weld the patch to the lead, is that correct? If I can't, I'll need to put some sort of filler between the patch and the lead. That's where I'm confused.

 

If I can weld to the lead itself, it's not a big deal I guess.

 

no you can't weld to the lead, you'll have to remove the lead from just around the hole then mig weld the patch in. there's really no other way to do it, unless you have enough room to room to epoxy a backer piece in so you can epoxy the patch, but it doesn't look like you do. you could fiberglass it as well but that's a cheezy way to do it in that area.

 

i would just remove the lead from directly around the hole and mig weld in a patch

[unfrozen1969 11]

Could you try Oxy/Acetylne with a brass rod, try a small patch, the brass is very flexible and soft.

 

Bill

[Fordrevhead 29]

Get lead filters for your mask, move some fresh air, and melt the lead off slowly with a small tip torch (careful not to overheat the metal and warp).

 

Cut a nice rectangular area out, make a new piece out of the proper gauge metal (perhaps bent at a 90 degree angle for the first area). Trace the cutout onto the new piece, then trim. Start big... trim until it just fits... then bevel the edges of the old and new metal at the seam. Butt weld with tig is best, mig will do. Dont run a bead. Small tacks with mig, alternate from edge to edge, dont overheat.

 

Good luck