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flight96

Clevor Engine...(Mock Boss)

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Thanks Chappy....

I also heard some not so good things about Heartland. And yes....ALWAYS do your homeworks when dealing with ANYONE online !!! I doubt I would buy a complete engine from someone that far away. Im too paranoid. Id rather have someone local build it. That way I can talk to the guys doing the build face to face. Plus there is something to be said about dealing with local business. Especially in this economy.

 

And Thank You COZ

I will check them out. Its just driving me crazy that I have all the parts but the pistons, and everywhere I look for information I get a different answer....The quest continues...I will definately look that site up !!

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Well I may have found the wiley and elusive pistons !!! Diamond Racing says they have them !! They aint cheap but they are the correct pistons. And unlike the KB pistons they are forged, not hypers, and come complete with rings, pins...ect....

 

KB has a forged cleveland piston part number KB875 with a 1.241 compression height and an 11.7cc dish. If you use a 4" stroke crank and 6.25" rods you will have .013 clearance using a 9.503 deck block. This will make a stout 408 Clevor.

 

6.25+1.241+2=9.491

 

You will need to have at least a 70cc head to keep the compression reasonable (around 10 to 1).

 

Another alternative is KB879 with a 1.266 ch and a 20 cc dish. Use an early 9.48 deck block and a 6.2" rod. Now you have a little bit of room to play with for cylinder head volume. You will probably need to clean the block up with a .010 cut, but chances are it will need to be cleaned up anyway, and that's not much to take off.

 

6.2+1.266+2=9.466

 

http://kb-silvolite.com/downloads/NEW_COMBO_PREMIUM_&_FHR_FORGED_CATALOG_2008.pdf

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One more combination would be a 393 using a KB148 hyper piston with the stock 1.67 ch and a 13cc dish. If you use an early 9.48 deck block and rods from a 250 I6 @ 5.88, you will have a nice high compression but streetable combination.

 

5.88+1.67+1.925=9.475

 

No, I'm not a sales rep for KB; but they just came out with a new Forged catalog with a lot of cool Ford applications and my wheels started spinning.

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so with a stock crank and rod, what do you think would be my best option. Using an early block,9.48 deck height and 2V heads.

 

Hmmm, the KB110 would be the only choice for stock crank and rods, but you need the taller 9.503 deck block. I'd make a stroker. It would make better use of the Cleveland heads.

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Another alternative is KB879 with a 1.266 ch and a 20 cc dish. Use an early 9.48 deck block and a 6.2" rod. Now you have a little bit of room to play with for cylinder head volume. You will probably need to clean the block up with a .010 cut, but chances are it will need to be cleaned up anyway, and that's not much to take off.

 

6.2+1.266+2=9.466

 

 

Im leaning toward this combo. The 2V heads I have are open chamber so the CR should be manageable.

Plus, Im sure the pistons will be easier to find. What about the crank ? What mods will it need?

 

I am also looking at tthese... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280303319043&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123

Edited by flight96

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With open chamber heads you'll get around 9:1 cr since there is already a 20cc dish. You need an aftermarket 4" stroker crank. A cast crank is fine for a low compression build. When the budget allows step up to Aussie or Edelbrock heads.

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Some progress on the engine !!!

The Machine shop has done all the mods to the heads and the block. They are quit impressed with how good the block is. All their waiting for now is the pistons. All the other parts are here. It will be great to see this finally done. I have been hunting parts for this build for a looooong time !!!

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So I have the engine painted and I am picking up the valve covers today (See Pics...). I want to get the covers on so there is no chance of moisture getting on the springs.

My questions are...

* I painted the complete block to keep it sealed, do I need to remove the paint where the gaskets are gonna go ?? (ie water pump, headers oil filter...)

* The machine shop has some 'oil' (For lack of a better word) on the valve springs. Should I put some more oil on them before I put on the valve covers ? Just to keep them lubed ???

* I have a new Powerbond Balancer, can you paint the balancer? I want to paint it black with white timing markings .

 

The engine won't be going back in for 4 to 6 weeks so I want to keep it protected.

 

Thanks for your responses !!!

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So I have the engine painted and I am picking up the valve covers today (See Pics...). I want to get the covers on so there is no chance of moisture getting on the springs.

My questions are...

* I painted the complete block to keep it sealed, do I need to remove the paint where the gaskets are gonna go ?? (ie water pump, headers oil filter...)

* The machine shop has some 'oil' (For lack of a better word) on the valve springs. Should I put some more oil on them before I put on the valve covers ? Just to keep them lubed ???

* I have a new Powerbond Balancer, can you paint the balancer? I want to paint it black with white timing markings .

 

The engine won't be going back in for 4 to 6 weeks so I want to keep it protected.

 

Thanks for your responses !!!

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flight96 ... looking good!! im interested to see what response comes back on the moisture question.. my motor is sitting in a bag until it goes into the 69... the builder put a good amount of assembly lube when building and we plan on priming the motor and turning it over by hand before it cranks the first time.

congrats on all of your progress!!:rockon:

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flight96 ... looking good!! im interested to see what response comes back on the moisture question.. my motor is sitting in a bag until it goes into the 69... the builder put a good amount of assembly lube when building and we plan on priming the motor and turning it over by hand before it cranks the first time.

congrats on all of your progress!!:rockon:

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