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69GT

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Ya thats the main part of the car I was concerned about. Everything else they make replacement parts for but this, they have to fabricate everything. At least when hes done it will be nice clean metal. Also for some reason the passenger side of the car is the most badly rusted?

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Ya thats the main part of the car I was concerned about. Everything else they make replacement parts for but this, they have to fabricate everything. At least when hes done it will be nice clean metal. Also for some reason the passenger side of the car is the most badly rusted?

 

 

my cougar is the same way. driver side has one little spot at the front bottom door corner but the pasenger side has both corners of the door, the bottom front of the door shell and the rear 1/4 right behind the wheelwell. none of it is bad, except maybe the door shell corner which combined with the rust in the corners may require me finding another complete door. i also noticed on my car that the paint is a little more faded on that side as well like maybe the car was kept in a carport and the passenger side was facing the outside, could be the case with your car as well

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Went by today and got some more pictures. He cut out the old trunk pieces and put in the new ones as well as the outer wheel well. Its so nice looking at nice clean metal. Compared to the previous pictures it looks so much nicer. I was also told by the guy who does the estimates/accounting that there is a non official race between my car and two others on how quickly and easily progress is being made. My car is winning ahead of a Porsche and an El Camino. :001_smile:

 

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When welding in replacement metal such as this, how do you ensure that everything lines up straight, so that when you are done, the trunk sits flat and straight, and the one side of your bumper isn't leaning to one side.

 

The reason I ask is because I have floors to replace in my convertible, and have been told to have my doors done first, so that when you put in the bracing etc, before the floors go in, everything lines up and the car doesn't sag in the middle.

 

Would this not be a simialr issue when replacing trunk dropoffs and fenders etc....?

 

Bill from Canada, eh!

Newbie welder

Edited by unfrozen1969

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When welding in replacement meyal such as this, how do you ensure hat everything lines up straight, so that when you are done, the trunk sits flat and straight, and the one side of your bumper isn't leaning to one side.

 

The reason I ask is because I have floors to replace in my convertible, and have been told to have my doors done first, so that when you put in the bracing etc, before the floors go in, everything lines up and the car doesn't sag in the middle.

 

Would this not be a simialr issue when replacing trunk dropoffs and fenders etc....?

 

Bill from Canada, eh!

Newbie welder

 

 

it's not as critical to brace things up on a coupe since the roof will help hold things in position. also they are doing his car one side at a time and the body looks well supported.

 

on the vert you will first need to align the doors and make sure everything is as close to perfect as you can get it and then add bracing to the body before you remove the doors so the car doesn't "taco" when you start cutting pieces off of it

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The restoration guy I was speaking with suggested that I replace the floor with one single piece as it is much easier, and would add a great deal more stability, rather than two separate pieces.

 

I am going to have my doors reskinned first, so that they are perfect when the car is being aligned for the floors.

 

 

Bill

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The restoration guy I was speaking with suggested that I replace the floor with one single piece as it is much easier, and would add a great deal more stability, rather than two separate pieces.

 

I am going to have my doors reskinned first, so that they are perfect when the car is being aligned for the floors.

 

 

Bill

 

 

Hi Bill,

when you reskin the door shell make sure the door frame is not twisted when attaching the skin.

I reskinned one of my doors and i found the door was a bit twisted when I went to fit it, I had to physically force twist the door back to original, it worked out ok but next time I will know about this.

 

Also, if you are gluing in the 69 glass make sure to use the inserts in the alum brackets that hold the glass tight otherwise if it goes in leaning to one side or the other it will give you huge problems on reassembly, I know these things!!!!! I was going to glue them in my self but the guy who installed my windshield wanted to do it saying he had much experience doing this...well he ended up grinding and cutting off the alum bracket and he had to supply another one...lesson learned.

 

Better tell the fella who is going to do the work.

 

When you get her done drive down to Oakville and well go for a cruise!!

 

Hope this helps

John

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Ya, as far as putting on replacement parts such as whats going on here I know the general concepts of what to do but not the actual procedure for doing it. Thats why id rather have a pro do this sort of work. :helpsmilie:

 

Went by and snapped some more photos. He has the quarter almost completely welded up. He also patched up the corner of the window that was looking pretty nasty. Trunk pieces also got some primer on them. Its getting to the point where they told me they're going to want me to sit down with the painter soon and go over what I want to have done. :clap: I already have the color, color code, that nice fancy template for the mach 1 hood stripe layout you guys supplied me with. Now I just need to find dimensions for the GT stripes. I may have them on a dvd shop manual I have for the car. Just have to search around for it.

 

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Went by the shop earlier today to check up on progress. I guess the shop got a flood of insurance work so they had my body guy working on that to try and get it all out of the shop. He told me he felt bad he hadn't touched the car in a couple days and said he would work on it over the weekend. I told him I wasn't one of those people that expected progress to be made quickly and other things require attention etc. and most of all didn't want him to spend his weekend laboring away on my car! But either way now there isn't any insurance work in the shop so that leaves my car for people to work on. :tongue_smilie:

 

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man i wish the shop that did my car had worked as fast as these guys doing your's. i was originally told 6-8 weeks and that turned into 9 months because they got flooded with insurance work after a big hail storm we had here and i told them they could use my car as a filler car between insurnace jobs but i still didn't expect it to take as long as it did

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Ya I think they like me a lot there. I come in on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday to take pictures and just say hi and check up on things so the guys that work there know me pretty well now. They also like that I make payments and don't let the balance of unpaid work go very high. (unlike some of the other cars they have there I guess)

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How do you pay for the work being done. The guy I was speaking with says that he will work on it here and there and let me know when I owe him money. he thought that to replace the floors and get the whole car completed welded and straight would be around 10K. It sounds a little steep to me, and I can now see why guys do there own work.

 

Bill from Ottawa

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They keep track of how many hours they have into the car and plug it into their computer and then they keep track of the payments I make on it. We also figured out before work started about how much it would be.

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Stopped by and my body guy had someone else doing the 'labor intensive' work on it.:tongue_smilie: The curve in the window pillar looks much better now. I think they were also going to spray some new undercoating in the wheel wells.

 

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Stopped by the shop today. He got the two holes patched up on the taillight panel which you can see in previous pictures. It looks like there were never any holes there to begin with the metal work is so good. When I came in he was working on the passenger fender which needed a patch on the top part where it makes a 90 degree bend close to the antenna. That got patched up rather nicely. Also, we were looking at the driver side fender and it looks like at some point that had been replaced. He pointed out how there were numbers on the bottom of the fender and there wasnt any undercoating from the factory which the passenger side has before he scraped it off. Just something I didnt know before but now I do. Also, the driver side door has been primered but he left it in the paint booth so it could take advantage of the heat cycles from other parts/ cars being painted.

 

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I have one more picture of the taillight patch from the inside. Work is pretty much done on the fender and has been put on the car but not yet bolted down. Just a little more sanding on the quarter panel and that will be done as well. Taillight panel got some nice primer to protect it from rusting. This car is more and more resembling a mustang everyday!

 

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looks good. one thing i noticed though, is that they have still the scoop bolted to the hood, make sure they take it off and paint it seperately when they paint the hood, otherwise your turn indicators and hood scoop grill are going to have overspray all over them, just FYI.

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They haven't quite gotten to the hood yet. The white primer is actually my doing back when I was still trying my hand at it. When I did it I took all the hardware off the scoop and took it off the hood. The primer on the hood is pretty cheap and Id rather they put what they have on it.

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Wow I thought I had posted some of the progress but I guess I haven't. Driver door is compete as well as all the body work on the passenger quarter panel. The car has been primered on the passenger side except for the passenger door. Passenger fender has been shot, so the body work is getting that much closer!

 

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looking good bro, looking good. i gotta agree on the strikers though. mine were also left on when the car was painted i was just lucky that the doors didn't need to be realigned after the paint was done.

 

did you ever decide what you were going to do on the hood? blacked out or the 70 mach 1 style stripe?

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