Front End Alignment Questions

[Black Jade 43]

I have a 69 Fastback, Just installed 04 Mach 1 Wheels with 245/45/17 tires 1" spacers all around. 302 auto, stock springs and shocks, all new suspension components except. I have some play in the steering but I know its in the steering control valve which I am having one rebuilt by stanger as soon as I can send it.

Should I have it realigned with these wheels/tires?

Should I have it realigned with the 14x7 magnums with 235/60/14?

Are there any better specs other than factory settings?

NPD says to do the Shelby drop with their negative wedge camber kit.

 

Any body have any experience with this set up?

 

Thanks, ED

[Black Jade 43]

I have a 69 Fastback, Just installed 04 Mach 1 Wheels with 245/45/17 tires 1" spacers all around. 302 auto, stock springs and shocks, all new suspension components except. I have some play in the steering but I know its in the steering control valve which I am having one rebuilt by stanger as soon as I can send it.

Should I have it realigned with these wheels/tires?

Should I have it realigned with the 14x7 magnums with 235/60/14?

Are there any better specs other than factory settings?

NPD says to do the Shelby drop with their negative wedge camber kit.

 

Any body have any experience with this set up?

 

Thanks, ED

[R4K 10]

I don't believe you need the negative wedge kit unless you're going to lower the UCAs more than one inch. With just a 1" drop, you don't need that reinforcement plate that comes with the negative wedge kit. I went ahead and bought a lowering template jig by TCP, though, because I didn't trust myself to align and drill without f'ing things up, lol.

[R4K 10]

I don't believe you need the negative wedge kit unless you're going to lower the UCAs more than one inch. With just a 1" drop, you don't need that reinforcement plate that comes with the negative wedge kit. I went ahead and bought a lowering template jig by TCP, though, because I didn't trust myself to align and drill without f'ing things up, lol.

[bnickel 10,004]

you need to have the car aligned with whatever wheels and tires you plan on using. if you have purchased the negative wedge kit and plan on installing it you need to follow the manufacturers directions. if you haven't got it already it's totally up to you. you can do the 1" shelby drop OR you can do the neg.wedge drop which 1.75" the difference on the street will negliigible but if you track the car at all you WILL notice an improvement with the neg. wedge kit. if you haven't seen them before i'd highly recommend a set of Opentracker roller bearing spring perches. www.opentrackerracingproducts.com

 

opentracker also has some better alignment specs on his site too.

[bnickel 10,004]

you need to have the car aligned with whatever wheels and tires you plan on using. if you have purchased the negative wedge kit and plan on installing it you need to follow the manufacturers directions. if you haven't got it already it's totally up to you. you can do the 1" shelby drop OR you can do the neg.wedge drop which 1.75" the difference on the street will negliigible but if you track the car at all you WILL notice an improvement with the neg. wedge kit. if you haven't seen them before i'd highly recommend a set of Opentracker roller bearing spring perches. www.opentrackerracingproducts.com

 

opentracker also has some better alignment specs on his site too.

[Pakrat 1,043]

I think the shelby drop would be reccomended by just about anyone but when you go to the alignment shop don't let them set things to a stock 69' mustang setting (FYI 1/4* positive caster, 3/4* positive camber and 3/16" toe in) if they even know what that is anymore. All my research so far has shown that an optimal setting with the drop would be 2* positive caster, 0* to 1* negative camber and 1/8" toe in. It may be just slightly harder to steer but way more stable.

[Pakrat 1,043]

I think the shelby drop would be reccomended by just about anyone but when you go to the alignment shop don't let them set things to a stock 69' mustang setting (FYI 1/4* positive caster, 3/4* positive camber and 3/16" toe in) if they even know what that is anymore. All my research so far has shown that an optimal setting with the drop would be 2* positive caster, 0* to 1* negative camber and 1/8" toe in. It may be just slightly harder to steer but way more stable.

[Cupid 10]

All my research so far has shown that an optimal setting with the drop would be 2* positive caster, 0* to 1* negative camber and 1/8" toe in. It may be just slightly harder to steer but way more stable.

 

I agree with Pak. I just did this to my 70 Coupe and let me tell ya......it's like night and day.:punk: The car drives likes it's on rails. I don't even have a monte carlo bar or export brace and it still drives fantastic! I do, however, have a larger front sway bar.(1-1/8"). You don't need one that big. A 1" one should do just fine. Oh, no neg wedge kit either.

 

Do yourself a favor and ask your alignment guy for the printout of your alignment specs when he's done.

 

Your steering box may have some play like mine as well. I have to get the ctrl valve and steering gbox refurbished or make them disappear for a rack and pinion. Haven't decided yet, but my alignment guy gave me the official "you need to get this done" speech....:yawn: so look out for that!

[Cupid 10]

All my research so far has shown that an optimal setting with the drop would be 2* positive caster, 0* to 1* negative camber and 1/8" toe in. It may be just slightly harder to steer but way more stable.

 

I agree with Pak. I just did this to my 70 Coupe and let me tell ya......it's like night and day.:punk: The car drives likes it's on rails. I don't even have a monte carlo bar or export brace and it still drives fantastic! I do, however, have a larger front sway bar.(1-1/8"). You don't need one that big. A 1" one should do just fine. Oh, no neg wedge kit either.

 

Do yourself a favor and ask your alignment guy for the printout of your alignment specs when he's done.

 

Your steering box may have some play like mine as well. I have to get the ctrl valve and steering gbox refurbished or make them disappear for a rack and pinion. Haven't decided yet, but my alignment guy gave me the official "you need to get this done" speech....:yawn: so look out for that!

[bnickel 10,004]

if you need to get the box, the control valve or the power cylinder rebuilt here is a good place to have it done.

 

http://stangerssite.com/

 

i've heard nothing but good things about them, never once have i heard anything negative on any of the forums.

[bnickel 10,004]

if you need to get the box, the control valve or the power cylinder rebuilt here is a good place to have it done.

 

http://stangerssite.com/

 

i've heard nothing but good things about them, never once have i heard anything negative on any of the forums.