Anyone have a good link to replacing head gaskets?

[bnickel 10,004]

those head bolts should be the correct ones, just call summits tech line to be sure. their online crap is kinda hard to figure out.

 

as for the pistons, i'd just look at a stock replacement cast piston or for a little bit more money the hypereutectic pistons, no need to go forged for a cruiser. then stock replacement rings and you'll need to find out if the crank has been or needs to be turned. if you have a machine shop hone the block, install the pistons to the rods and then build the short block with new bearings and rings you'll probably be looking at $500 or so, depending on how reasonable the machine shop is you might even be able to buy the pistons and have the work done for that. just tell them you don't want the block bored or anything. DO NOT try to save 2 used pistons to save a little money, stock cast replacements are only about 10-15 bucks each, it's really not worth $30 to try and save them, just replace them all.

[bnickel 10,004]

here ya go, speed pro hypereutectitic pistons, stock replacement, standard bore 11 bucks each

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=STL%2DH654P&N=700+4294925232+4294908331+4294839001+4294840126+4294908282+4294925082+4294891096+4294782068+4294774631+4294774840+4294891030+115&autoview=sku

[Pakrat 1,043]

OK that's not to bad, thanks as always for your patience and help B, at least I'm learning alot so it ain't all bad I guess. So as long as the rods are in good shape I can reuse those, that's good news I guess.

 

So, was I right about that little notch indicating the pistons were backwards?

[bnickel 10,004]

rods should be fine, unless he screwed those up too. i doubt there is anything wrong with them though, since the car has been running all this time. just check to make sure there is no discoloration at the wrist pin end. some people will use a torch to heat the pin end of the rod so they can install the piston and wrist pin. i don't like doing that and have seen rod break because of that, it changes the metallurgy of the rod and actually weakens it at that spot. i've always left the rods alone or heated them up in an oven and chilled the wrist pins in the freezer, makes for an almost slip fit that way.

[Spoofty 10]

Here's a whole kit for $299. I know that sounds like alot, but by the time you price up the gaskets, rings, bearings, oil pump and and so on this might be an option. I would send all your parts to a machine shop and have it all checked out for wear first. That way you will know if your gonna need over or under sized parts. Sorry about your luck that really sucks. This is the kind of thing that happened to me when doing Ponyguls's motor. All I wanted to do was freshen it up with gasket and I found a backward rod and I ended up replacing everything in the motor.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FEM%2DMHP174%2D000&N=700+4294908331+4294925232+4294919598+115&autoview=sku

[bnickel 10,004]

yeah, that kit is a good deal. as far as whether or not the engine needs an overbore, generally as long as there are no deep scratches in the cylinders and no significant ridge at the top of the bore you can get by with nothing more than a good honing, especially since Pak's engine is low mileage. personally i don't like to bore a block if it isn't absolutely necessary or there isn't an bunch of wear. the engine in my car is standard bore and i just had it honed and even reused the original pistons. of course i knew the complete history of the engine as well since my great granny bought the car new and it only had just over 76,000 miles. the worst cylinder in my engine had only .004 wear at the top of the cylinder and .003 at the bottom and it had a nice finish once it was honed. it did take a little longer for the rings to seat fully but then again the engine hasn't been anywhere but the driveway since it was built, so more than likely the ring seating took longer because of me not being able to drive the car or even put a load on it than becuase of the minimal wear.

[Pakrat 1,043]

Well, I know alot of you will disagree with this but after much thought I am seriously just thinking of putting things back togther pretty much as is for now. When I consider that if I don't find a job shortly after the first year I just may have to sell the car once completed in the spring and as is it would still run great and fetch a good price the way it is and if things work out for the better than all I need is one or two seasons out of it and I would likely just pull and store the original engine and replace it with a 347 crate since it would be modified now anyway. I just can't see throwing another $500 or so at it not to mention the extar time it will take and winter fastly approaching and given either scenario where if I had just taken the easy route to repainting it I wouldn't have even done what I have to it so far and the fact that I have had no running issues with it for 5,000 miles regardless of what a shotty a rebuild it was.

[bnickel 10,004]

well you can certainly do that if you want, i wouldn't recommend it but....

[Pakrat 1,043]

well you can certainly do that if you want, i wouldn't recommend it but....

 

I know I know, I wouldn't either but it seems I have little down sides and if things don't turn around for me it won't be my problem anymore. Shitty thing to say but it's the sad truth. Pulling the engine was no big deal at all like I thought so even though now would seem like the most opportune time it really isn't and can be done at any point down the road.

[Pakrat 1,043]

BTW, for anyone wanting to know, they do not make just a bolt with a wider neck to put 351 heads on a 302, the actual kit looks this: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FMS%2DM%2D6065%2DD289&N=700+115&autoview=sku

 

So since there is nothing wrong with my bolts I'm better of getting just the busing as Spoofty indicated if anything at all since his is set up like mine and has no issues and he drives way harder than I do so we'll see, I may just get them anyway though. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2D51400419&N=700+115&autoview=sku

[Pakrat 1,043]

Here's a couple of follow up questions I have now that my cylinder heads have been put back on and I am completing the reassembly of the rest of the parts including the intake manifold.

 

As we learned my heads are actually 351W heads and I just noticed that the coolant passages at the front and rear that mate up to the intake manifold are different, the heads have a dog eared passage to them and the intake is just an oval one. I bought the 302 intake gasket which appears to match the old one I took off, but should I be using a 351 intake gasket instead that matches the port on the heads or the one I have to the intake? Does one take presidence here or avoid a potential leak easier? Unlike most of the gaskets I noticed that the intake one does not say 302 and 351 like most of them so I am actually just assuming there is a different gasket.

 

Also, since the head gasket says 302 and 351 on it I assume this is a none issue but I have to wonder why do the kidney shaped coolant holes towards the front of the engine get covered by the gasket but the ones in the back are cut out and why do all the triangle shaped ones between the cylindes have a smaller circle hole cut out in the gasket instead of true size? I just found it odd is all.

[Pakrat 1,043]

Here's a couple of follow up questions I have now that my cylinder heads have been put back on and I am completing the reassembly of the rest of the parts including the intake manifold.

 

As we learned my heads are actually 351W heads and I just noticed that the coolant passages at the front and rear that mate up to the intake manifold are different, the heads have a dog eared passage to them and the intake is just an oval one. I bought the 302 intake gasket which appears to match the old one I took off, but should I be using a 351 intake gasket instead that matches the port on the heads or the one I have to the intake? Does one take presidence here or avoid a potential leak easier? Unlike most of the gaskets I noticed that the intake one does not say 302 and 351 like most of them so I am actually just assuming there is a different gasket.

 

Also, since the head gasket says 302 and 351 on it I assume this is a none issue but I have to wonder why do the kidney shaped coolant holes towards the front of the engine get covered by the gasket but the ones in the back are cut out and why do all the triangle shaped ones between the cylindes have a smaller circle hole cut out in the gasket instead of true size? I just found it odd is all.

[bnickel 10,004]

use the 351 intake gaskets. are you sure the head gaskets are on right? it seems to me that it's the front coolant holes that should be open not the rear, but it's been a while since i've messed with them.

[bnickel 10,004]

use the 351 intake gaskets. are you sure the head gaskets are on right? it seems to me that it's the front coolant holes that should be open not the rear, but it's been a while since i've messed with them.

[Pakrat 1,043]

use the 351 intake gaskets. are you sure the head gaskets are on right? it seems to me that it's the front coolant holes that should be open not the rear, but it's been a while since i've messed with them.

 

 

OK I'll go exchange the one I have then for the 351, thanks. I am glad I asked but you shouldn't be relying on me to suddenly notice these things B, you should have brought this to my attention when we discoverd what type of heads I had.:nono: I am very disappointed in your advice slacking lately. You're just damn lucky that what I lack in Mustang knowledge I more than make up for with common sense and a keen eye.

 

As for the heads maybe I got which holes are covered backwards I don't think so though but I am almost insulted that you would think they aren't on right. I know some folks have made that mistake, but the front clearly labeled front and with that little corner tab that sticks out on the front like they should be when they are correct as a doble check I honestly don't see how anyone with their eyes open could make this mistake ever unless they aren't able to read and put the printed side of the gasket both up or both down on each side getting one side wrong. Anyway, it's good to know the holes are supposed ot be covered but why have holes on boht sides just to block them in the moddle wityh a gasket???? It's obviously supposed ot be that way, but why?

[Pakrat 1,043]

use the 351 intake gaskets. are you sure the head gaskets are on right? it seems to me that it's the front coolant holes that should be open not the rear, but it's been a while since i've messed with them.

 

 

OK I'll go exchange the one I have then for the 351, thanks. I am glad I asked but you shouldn't be relying on me to suddenly notice these things B, you should have brought this to my attention when we discoverd what type of heads I had.:nono: I am very disappointed in your advice slacking lately. You're just damn lucky that what I lack in Mustang knowledge I more than make up for with common sense and a keen eye.

 

As for the heads maybe I got which holes are covered backwards I don't think so though but I am almost insulted that you would think they aren't on right. I know some folks have made that mistake, but the front clearly labeled front and with that little corner tab that sticks out on the front like they should be when they are correct as a doble check I honestly don't see how anyone with their eyes open could make this mistake ever unless they aren't able to read and put the printed side of the gasket both up or both down on each side getting one side wrong. Anyway, it's good to know the holes are supposed ot be covered but why have holes on boht sides just to block them in the moddle wityh a gasket???? It's obviously supposed ot be that way, but why?

[bnickel 10,004]

well gaawaaully sarge!!!! didn't mean to be a slacker!!!! one thing, though about the suing the 351 gaskets, the end seals won't work on your 302 so you'll need to use silicone, which i recommend anyway BTW. ok as long as you have front clearly facing the FRONT then you'll be fine. i can't honestly say why ford did it that way, no clue. the only reason i was concerned was that most ford intakes don't have a rear coolant crossover passage which could get ugly if the wrong coolant holes are blocked.

[bnickel 10,004]

well gaawaaully sarge!!!! didn't mean to be a slacker!!!! one thing, though about the suing the 351 gaskets, the end seals won't work on your 302 so you'll need to use silicone, which i recommend anyway BTW. ok as long as you have front clearly facing the FRONT then you'll be fine. i can't honestly say why ford did it that way, no clue. the only reason i was concerned was that most ford intakes don't have a rear coolant crossover passage which could get ugly if the wrong coolant holes are blocked.