Brakes

[mustangcrazy70 0]

I have a 70 coupe with manual disc / drum brakes. Can I convert them to a power brake system? If so, what is needed? Booster, Different brake padal?

 

Thanks for the info!!

[69mach1t5 104]

You need new booster and master cylinder and, with the new kits out you can use same brake pedal now, I did it and love it.Dont forgot the brake porportional valve

[70vert 17]

well, sort of related. The topic is "Brakes". ;-) After new wheels come in (try getting Edelbrock 454s, I dare you) in a couple weeks, the next project is to upgrade to front discs. Here's what I'm getting:

 

http://streetortrack.com/baer-brakes-65-73-ford-mustang-front.asp

 

for my '70 convertible with manual drum brakes. I'll spring for the adjustable lever proportioning valve and it comes with a new master cylinder. I assume this is all that's needed, right, and it all comes in the kit - I don't need a new brake pedal to push more fluid volume, do I?

I plan to go with power discs eventually, but want to go front disc as described above, then 4 wheel disc, then power disc. Any problems with doing that, with the Baer-supplied master cylinder and a stock manual brake pedal?

[buening 63]

Hello, you need a power brake pedal, booster and master cylinder. A proportioning valve is the same for all disc/drum whether it be manual or power brakes. You may have to buy some brake line fitting adapters or possibly brake lines from the prop valve to m/c, cause the fittings to the m/c are different on non-power vs. power and the m/c is in a different location and may need longer lines.

[70vert 17]

buening, thanks for the reply. So it looks like I will be in the clear for just adding the front Baer discs with their new master, and only when I go to power will I have to set up the power brake pedal and booster?

 

I got a pretty strong leg so I can probably handle pushing a disc/drum with no booster, I think . . .

[69mach1t5 104]

Hello, you need a power brake pedal, booster and master cylinder. A proportioning valve is the same for all disc/drum whether it be manual or power brakes. You may have to buy some brake line fitting adapters or possibly brake lines from the prop valve to m/c, cause the fittings to the m/c are different on non-power vs. power and the m/c is in a different location and may need longer lines.

Your not correct in your info sorry, ONly if you want to go the expensive way, They sell the booster and master cyclinder and new booster has adjustable rod ,So you dont need to replace the pedal.

[buening 63]

Hello, you need a power brake pedal, booster and master cylinder. A proportioning valve is the same for all disc/drum whether it be manual or power brakes. You may have to buy some brake line fitting adapters or possibly brake lines from the prop valve to m/c, cause the fittings to the m/c are different on non-power vs. power and the m/c is in a different location and may need longer lines.

Your not correct in your info sorry, ONly if you want to go the expensive way, They sell the booster and master cyclinder and new booster has adjustable rod ,So you dont need to replace the pedal.

 

True, but this is an aftermarket booster setup and will be noticeably different from the stock version. Stock boosters don't have adjustable rods but the master cylinder pushrods are. Aftermarket conversion kits do have adjustable booster pushrods. If he wants to go the supposedly cheap route and get the aftermarket version, he will spend $320 on the combo booster and M/C. I paid $100 for my factory rebuilt booster and m/c combo from autozone (plus $45 if you don't have a core) and $30 for a power brake pedal from ebay and still had money to spare and bought a complete stainless brake line kit. This setup comes with a lifetime guarantee on the booster and M/C but i don't see any kind of warranty on the conversion setup. Also keep in mind that they changed the mounting point on the power pedals for reduced pedal effort (more of a moment arm, kinda like using a cheater bar). It all depends on if he wants to go stock which requires a little more effort but less expensive, or he can go the easy route but you do pay for convenience.

[69mach1t5 104]

I agree. Oh your also right ,I seen he already had disc brakes but manual, So yes the porpationing valce can be reused

[70-DropTop 12]

I paid $100 for my factory rebuilt booster and m/c combo from autozone (plus $45 if you don't have a core) and $30 for a power brake pedal from ebay and still had money to spare and bought a complete stainless brake line kit. This setup comes with a lifetime guarantee on the booster and M/C but i don't see any kind of warranty on the conversion setup.

 

I know that this is an older thread, but it is what I'm trying to decide right now...which to get. The NPD kit or go to Autozone or Advance and pickup a '70 rebuilt booster and an 84 SVO Master Cylinder (4 wheel discs). I can buy the pedal new for 94 or I can do the eBay thing for less. How much extra work is going this route vs. the NPD kit? Do I have to mess around with the firewall much? Is it just the pedal swap that requires the extra work? I don't care either way if it looks stock or not.

 

From what I'm seeing:

 

NPD: kit is 320, plus another 15 for the vacuum lines = 345.

 

Advance Auto Parts: rebuilt booster for 108, rebuilt 84 SVO MC for 40, new pedal for 93 (eBay for 50), and new brake switch for 6, vacuum lines for 15. = 262 or 212, depending on the pedal.

 

Are the openings already there for a 1970 booster? What's really involved. I'd appreciate if anyone would chime in here. I'd like to order the parts soon.

 

P.S. What Master Cylinder did you use? I'd get the 1970 disc/drum MC, but I plan on running 4-wheel discs. From what I've read on these sites, a mid-80's SVO 1 1/8" master cylinder should do the trick for a power disc setup.

 

Thanks!

[buening 63]

69mach1T5 may chime in on what mods were needed for the NPD kit, but i can comment on what was needed to convert my 70 mach from manual drums to power brakes.

 

I purchased a power disc brake pedal for an automatic on Ebay for roughly $40. I also found a power brake switch that mounts to the pedal on ebay for $10, but can be had at parts stores. The spring rate in the brake switch is different between manual and power brakes. Your firewall will already have holes on the outer reinforcement panel. You'll see the holes from inside the engine bay. You will have to drill through the firewall and through the brake pedal hanger/support for the stock booster. Since this is on a 70 car, you won't have to worry about cutting the firewall around the booster seal (69 owners have had to extend the MC rod hole a few inches up when adding a booster). It seems you started with manual drums but since you are going with 4 wheel discs, you won't need the proportioning valve. Do some research but i'm pretty sure the drum brake distribution block will work in your application (never done 4 wheel discs before). You will need custom lines from the distribution block to your new MC. As far as an MC, i have also read of others using the SVO unit. Vacuum lines? Depending on your preference I would just run normal rubber lines from the booster to the vacuum tree. The PB Booster Check Valve has a nipple connection for rubber hose. The diagram shows a rubber hose to a steel hose which connects to the intake manifold. I have mine running to the vacuum tree, which is correct for the 70 models. I think the 69 and earlier had the block on the intake.

 

From the pictures in the NPD catalog, it looks like the aftermarket boosters only have 4 mounting holes, so you'll be drilling holes in the non stock location.

[70-DropTop 12]

Alright! Thanks, buening. You were the guy I hoped would chime in. So, from what you've said and what I've read elsewhere, it really isn't too difficult. Either way, I'm bending new lines.

 

Right, I do have 4-wheel manual drums. The end game is 4-wheel power discs. I will be doing the power conversion and front disc conversion this year. Next year, I'll do the rear when I swap out the 8" for a 9".

 

I'll get by with a 4-wheel disc MC by using a 10# inline residual valve. I'll just remove that next year when the rear discs are installed. Everything I've seen says that I should have a proportioning valve. That's no big deal. I'm just going to run a line to a T split for the fronts. For the rear, I'll run a single line through the residual, then out to the back with the stock lines. When I swap the rear, I'll take out the residual and put in new lines to the rear.

 

From what you said about drilling holes, since the points are marked (in the reinforcing plate), then that'll be pretty easy to do. Also, not having to enlarge the hole is a good thing.

 

Thanks for your help. I'll post my progress as I get things done.

[buening 63]

No problem, let me know if you run into any problems with your swap. I can help with disc/drum setups but am a bit shady on the disc/disc setups. One thing to check (if you get the booster locally) is to make sure your new booster comes with the spacer bracket that goes between the firewall and the booster. It bolts directly to the booster and is normally included when getting a rebuilt booster, but have heard people not getting this spacer and then can't figure out why their booster won't mount correctly. Johnpro on the VMF ran into this problem and i had a spare spacer so i gave it to him. Unfortunately that is the only spare i had, otherwise i'd offer one to you if it doesn't come with one.

 

Also keep in mind there are adjustable proportioning valves that can be put on the rear brake line. This MIGHT be able to be used on your disc/disc setup because from my knowledge (somewhat limited) you will want a little more pressure on the front brakes so they grip first instead of at the exact same time. You might research that a bit more ;)