Swags63

These have never been mounted, I going with a black interior. Here are some pics

Please let me know if your still interested. I'ved looked around a little the best price I found was around $300 for a pair, if you want these you can have them for $270 plus shipping. [ATTACH]5972[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]5973[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]5974[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]5975[/ATTACH]

This will must likely stir the put with some people, but I'm not a big fan of holley for street use which generally sounds like your problem. For easy of tunning and a durable setup I prefer the Edelbrock Carb. No power valve just for starter. Here is a tip I picked up, if you go to Summit's site http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-9905/ and type in Remanufactured Carburetors in the search engine you can pick one up with a warranty for under $200.

Will do I'm going to take some pics tomorrow, let me know if your still interested after you see them. Very good shape.

The short answer is in my opinion is intake, carb, headers, ignition, then rocker arms, heads, and a cam these all can be done without pulling the engine. The best way I have found to start a project like what your talking about is to give yourself a budget. When you figure your dollar amount then shop for the best part you can buy with in it. When doing a upgrade try to think long term, for example if your going to buy an intake now and do a rebuild later make sure it will do the job later. There is a pretty good article in this months (March 2010) on what they call a garage built stroker. They built a 347 for a reasonable amount of money.

I'm trying to find the correct size yoke and u-jiont for My 1969 Mach 1 428 CJ 4spd car? I'm having problems getting the correct u-joint for the car and I'm wondering if the yoke is damaged or the wrong fit? Thanks, Swags63 :helpsmilie::helpsmilie:

Just a quick add on to the info you have already. I have a friend that is a restorer and he gave me a tip on exhaust manifold installation. I'm passing this on to you without trying it myself I installed Hooker headers on my car, so with that said here it is. He told me the easiest way he has found to get the manifolds on the car is to install the short block in the car bolt the manifolds to the heads then install them on the engine. I know the headers were a real pain so maybe this will help you out.

I have a new set of 1969 mustang deluxe interior door panels that are white in color. I'm looking to trade them for a set of Black. These have never been installed on the car but they do have all the trim mounted on them which will be removed prior to the trade. Please let me know if anyone is interested. I will post pics asap. Thanks, Swags63 :cool2:

My car is a 69 mach 1 with a 428 CJ, it is missing the front sway bar and I intend to replace it. I'm looking for some input on what size to use???, I've seen a variety of sizes for sale and the prices are all pretty close. So here is my question, is bigger better (1 1/8") or should I use something thinner (1" or 3/4") to promote ride quality. This car is going to be more of a cruiser then a racer so the priority should go in that direction or does it even matter? Any help or input would be appreciated. :helpsmilie::helpsmilie::helpsmilie: 　 Thanks, Swags63

I contacted a guy I know and he is supposed to let me know Monday if he has a set from another car. If that doesn't work out I will get back in contact with you. Thanks for the help, Swags63

Those are definitely missing from my car, any Idea where I can get a set or a drawing to make a set from? Thanks again for the help, Swags63

I'm in the process of restoring my 69 Mach and I'm having some troubles with the back seat install. It looks like the car had a roll bar installed in it at one time. I'm not sure if during the install the back seat mounting brackets were removed or exactly how they mount. Here are some pics of what I'm dealing with. Any advice would be highly appreciated. :helpsmilie::helpsmilie::helpsmilie: Thanks, Swags63

Many years ago in the 1980's Mustang Monthly tested all of the available engine paints against a sample provided by Bob Perkins. The overwhelming consensus was Plasti-Kote 224. It matched Ford Corporate Blue better than any other. This included Dupli-color, Krylon, Sherwin Williams......etc. This is an answer from a post on this web site. This color matched the color on My engine perfectly.:yes:

I have installed a set of hooker headers on my 69 mach 1 with the 428 cj engine. 16 bots a side kind of a pain but after getting them in the top front bolt on both side hits the shock towers. :scared: Any suggestion should I leave the top bolt out and risk a leak???? :helpsmilie::helpsmilie::helpsmilie:

:helpsmilie:Hello, Does any one know the correct color for the engine in my 69 mach 1 with a 428 CJ in it, maybe a Dupli-color or VHT part #? I was also looking for the correct color for the shock tower caps and the hood hinges springs? Any help would be great. Thanks, Dave :no:

Can anyone tell me if there is a trick to getting the master cylinder and booster out of my car?? I have a 69 Mach 1 428 CJ and I'm trying to remove the master cylinder but it hits the back side of the shock tower. Is there a method or trick to removing it?? I have attached a couple pics as well any help or suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave

Thanks for the help. My next question would be if this is a 68 date coded radiator is it possible that it ended up in my car from the factory or more then likely was it replaced at a earlier date when these where available?? If the later is ture should I sell it to some one who needs it for a factory correct restore?? Thanks in advance, Dave:helpsmilie::helpsmilie:

I'm in the process of restoring my 69 Mach 1. It is a 428 CJ 4sp I was wondering if anyone has knowledge of the radiator for this car I believe the part number is correct C8ZE-L1 but I was wondering about the date code mine is a 8LC, I was wondering what that means and if it is correct for my car. Thanks, Dave