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Posts posted by jmlay
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I assume you are talking about the kit similar to the one TC sells. If that is the case you just need to flip & rotate the eccentric until you have the placement you need for your alignment.
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I think you made a good decision in swapping it out to update! To me It seems like they charge too much for a simple device to can do at home with a small hand full of parts from you electronics store. But that may be just because I like to tinker. :-) :
http://www.midnightdsigns.com/james/Installing%20Gauges.htm
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/showtopic.php?tid/1503211/
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I am sure there are a buch of littel things but here are a couple of links.:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/05/project460/index.shtml
http://www.thecurb.org/Webazine/Pits/460ina69/rev-460in69.htm
http://www.critesrestoration.com/mustang.htm
http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?p=18994
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Yes, there are some that desire this equipment for restorations. If the tank is original & in good condition it is desirable as well.
Mike
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I am sure it will. You may also want to advertise it on the Boss & Cobra jet forums.
Mike
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Who does your paint & body work? I saw your car at the Whiterock Lake show last summer, at least I think it was yours. It was beautiful! I was there with a friend he had a 66 Cobra replica.
Thanks,
Mike
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Reverb,
Shoot me an e-mail if you want them, I will get them cut off this weekend. I hate to see good parts go to waste. I would rather give these away than throw them away.
Mike
jamesmlay @ tx.rr.com
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Get an electronic regulator rather than the mechanical style.
http://www.428cobrajet.org/forum/index.php?topic=11197.0
Mike
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A boss because of the heads. A reg 460 is just longer.:
http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/EngineDimensions.html
Mike
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From a TX car with no rust. Not sure you will find better.
Mike
Any pics? What kind of condition? -
But Ford moved the shock towers out so it would fit. With the huge heads.
Mike
A 460 is the same block as a 429, so it was done from the factory in a the Boss 429.Why not go with an FE ? plenty of options there and probably easier to get parts for. more correct too if that matters to you.
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The 460 will go in but it is longer than an FE & will be tight on the sides like an FE.
Mike
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I have a left & right from a 70 front clip I have been parting out. If you wish I can send one for $10 + shipping. I would not be able to get them sent out until Monday.
Mike
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Have you tried to weld upside down? Personally I would drill from the top down & clamp it tight then weld after taking lots of measurements. I feel you will get a better weld this way, stronger.
Mike
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Your correct about the rubber. Here's whats left of mine. I can find the drivers side but not the passenger side !! As you can see by the pic these were never painted so there was no protection from the elements....I circled where the felt is/was....Here is one or two:
Mike
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It is not reproduced. If all my stuff was not packed away I would dig one out for you. I am sure I have an extra. I do not recall it having felt. I do remember it was dipped in rubber.
Mike
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Replacing the oil pan is not a big deal if you have a hoist to lift the engine, they can be rented. It is possible you could jack the engine up enough to replace the pan but a hoist would be much easier. Unbolting the pan is the easy part.
Mike
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Kevin,
I have a 70 radiator support if that would help you, from a sold TX car. Where are you located? I not interested in shipping.
Thanks,
Mike
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It has been a while since I worked on a SB but the last one I worked on I had to go around the bolts 3-4 times as the intake seated to get all bolts torqued the same. Yes i would use some type of sealer/thread locker as those bolt holes are not blind.
Are you using quality bolts? You will have a certain amount of bolt stretch but they should do not stretch any more after they have been torqued.
Mike
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AH, got ya. Not used from what i have seen. I have been hunting thru picture & have not found them used yet.
Mike
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There is a bracket, ~3/4" wide by ~ 6", that connects the valance & the frame rail. It goes to the side not the front, ~90deg from the frame rail.
Mike
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Mike is correct. The studs can be replaced but you will need to touch-up the paint after, should be hidden behind the emblem.:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1612&itemType=PRODUCT
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1754&itemType=PRODUCT
Mike
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My Mach1 turned 40 today. I threw a party in the garage & finished the fraim rail path I have been putting off for months.
Mike
C-6 shifter rod question
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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C7ZA-7326-A:
http://mansfieldmustang.com/Transmissionsp2.html