-
Content Count
961 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
17
Posts posted by jmlay
-
-
-
You could wire the choke directly to the alternator. Have you had the guages out of the car and disassembled?
Mike
-
Get a drill, extension & socket. Pull the distributor & spin the pump counter clockwise direction, have someone watch your pressure gauge. If you do not have a mechanical gauge get one to be sure what the real pressure is. DO not rely on your stock gauges.
Mike
-
-
On the end of the trim there is a tab that gets screwed directly to the lower piller. There is not clip just a tab on the trim its self.
-
Depending on what you are greasing you may need to take pressure off the suspension before it will take grease, the upper a arm for example. Jack it up & take the weight off then grease away.
Mike
-
Before bending anything make sure you have the wave washers. These were to help adjust fit, sometimes more than one was used.
-
-
PA has a bell housing to make it work:
http://www.performanceautomatic.com/profitsystem.htm
http://www.parkwayperformance.com/bellhousing.asp#PA26390
Or there are other optins:
http://www.transmissionadapters.com/Ford_FE_to_AOD_install.htm
-
My point was if the convertible 351W isolators are used then the "BB" bases should be fine. The "BB" bases were not only used for 390 & 428's.
Mike
-
The "BB support bracket" was also used on convertible SB cars. Why not use 351W convertible motor mounts?
http://www.428cobrajet.org/id-motor-mount-support-bracket.html
-
Classic Tube can custom build what you need.
Mike
-
Have you lowered the front any, cut coils or replaced springs?
Mike
-
Have you inspected the area where it is leaking? If the lip of th body, where the seal seals, has rust damage that may be root cause rather than the seal. I would take some interior panels out & inspect before I payed someone to come out & just replace the seal.
-
Is it possible you have air in the cooling system???
Mike
-
Sounds like a vacuum leak in the booster. Take the hose off to the booster & plug the hose. The step on the brake pedal, bet it won't stall.
-
Sounds like a vacuum leak in the booster. Take the hose off to the booster & plug the hose. The step on the brake pedal, bet it won't stall.
-
Do the turn signals, backup lights, license plate light, & courtesy lights work(if you have them? Can you explain this statement, "front headlights turn off if I disconnect."?
Wiring diagram if you need it.:
http://www.themustangshop.com/resources.cfm
Mike
-
Do the turn signals, backup lights, license plate light, & courtesy lights work(if you have them? Can you explain this statement, "front headlights turn off if I disconnect."?
Wiring diagram if you need it.:
http://www.themustangshop.com/resources.cfm
Mike
-
There would not be a black on the solenoid lugs as this it power. This may help.:
-
I do not recall mine being sealed either. You could use some strip caulk as used on various other parts of the car, it would not be seen after installed.
-
I would say it is time to get out the VOM & start tracking it down. Here are the diagrams. There is a y/blk that turns to a R/Blk on the other side of the fuse that should be constant hot. Make sure the fuse terminals are clean & free of corrosion.:
-
Stan,
While at the parts house did you take a look at each, you should be able to see a physical diff. Or take a look at http://Http://www.rockauto.com, they usually have pictures of the parts.
-
Yes, I am there right now. I could go on & on but the short of it is I had/have a very solid TX car that I payed someone $6000 to F up. I have repaired almost all of it now & it is always just one more thing. I find it is always easier to work with someone else. Problem is all my single friends are now married or miles away, the new wife will not let them come out & play...
Mike
leaking 9" differential
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
You can either pull an axle or you can unscrew the vent and add it that way, make sure it is CLEAN around the vent first. The bigger problem you have is knowing how much oil to add....
Mike