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Posts posted by jmlay
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Doesn't the pertronixIII require a full 12V? If so you will need to run a coil that operates at 12V & make sure the resistor wire is bypassed.
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What Mister69 said.
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The Springs are natural steel. Shock tower caps were semi gloss black IF it is a SJ built car, phosphate & oil if one of the 2 other plants. You can get a phosphate plating kit from several places or google & find one of the home recipes.
Mike
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Make sure you mask off the lenses if you are polishing these attached!
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Another thing that was not identified is if you need a manual or power brake, if using stock components. The one I provided a link for was for power brakes.
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If you find a used one in need of a rebuild Scott has them MCR.:
http://musclecarresearch.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=28
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I will go check mine in a bit but I remember it being a Phillips head screw, not sure of the plating.
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You can use the cork gaskets if installed perfectly. Also allot has to do with cleanliness of the surfaces, if the block, heads or intake have been milled, & the adhesive/sealer used. Some interesting reading.:
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They make a screw in stud for replacing missing trim studs, may go to the local glass shop. They can also be replaced with a "stud gun", if the proper attachment is used. Most body shops should have one of these.:
http://www.eastwood.com/autobody/welder.html
http://www.eastwood.com/stud-welder-trim-rivet-tip.html
http://www.eastwood.com/stud-welder-trim-rivets-bag-500.html
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Lots of talk on the FE forum about them. This is a testament to there strength.:
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Interesting. Thanks for the info.
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There was a company on Ebay selling a direct replacement for a 69/70 that had the molded tank like the Griffin. This one was welded unlike the Griffin that is epoxy. They were around $400 also. I do not recall if this is them or not. If it is then they have raised there price. For the same money or less you can have a welded rad.
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Why spend the money? All you need to do is sand/grind the edge of the door skin until you can see the edge of the door then separate the 2. Lastly rill the spot welds that hold the thin strip remaining on the inside, or use an air hammer to remove it.
Mike
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Depending on how bad it is you could cut a flat sheet & weld it in. Otherwise you will need to purchase a replacement panel & cut out what you need to patch.
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Depending on how bad it is you could cut a flat sheet & weld it in. Otherwise you will need to purchase a replacement panel & cut out what you need to patch.
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Depending on how bad it is you could cut a flat sheet & weld it in. Otherwise you will need to purchase a replacement panel & cut out what you need to patch.
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There was a different window crank if the car had speakers from the factory, from what I undrstand.
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Yes they installed speakers in the door. Honestly the holes look like someone took a hatchet to cut them. ;-) If you want a picture of the factory holes I can post one.
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It has been a while since I read thru those threads but is seems that you are not advised to use a factory pump, they recommend what amounts to a Chevy pump. My car is far from on the road but this seems like a very nice alternative to a rack and opinion, if you can use the Ford pump successfully.
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There a few repops out there of the ford holley bracket.:
WTB: '69 Dash frame
in Parts for Sale / Wanted
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If it does not let me know & I have a extra that may work for you. Packing & shipping will the the tough part.