RPM
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Posts posted by RPM
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351W, FMX, manual steering, Hedman 1-5/8 primary tubes, part #88660. I installed both sides around 2001 to make sure they fit, but have forgotten how I did it. I got the drivers side in from below, and I thought this side would be the difficult side. I have the motor raised as far as possible, but still have the export brace attached. The starter, idler arm and passenger side motor mount are removed. Any tips for the passenger side? Does it go in from below or above. If above it surely looks like the export brace has to be removed. Help me pleeeese! :)
Bob
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Since no replies yet, if I you I'd go to the header website and see if they fit with the aod. As you may know, many times same engine/ header vary with the trans fit.
Bob
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I'd think that for most folks the 70 would work.
Bob
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I didn't get a kit. I bought the tie rod adapter stud, and 11/16" rod end from Speedway Motors. I made the tie rod adjuster out of aluminum with rt and lt hand threads. You need to make sure the taper of the adapter stud is the same as your spindles. Mine had the same taper, but I needed to ream them deeper. The oem tie rod has 7/16 threads thru the spindle arm, and the bump stop stud has 1/2" threads.
Bob
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Our cars had bump steer problems from the start. When we lower them the problem gets worse. Several companies sell bump steer kits which allow the tie rod at the spindle to be lowered which in my case eliminated the bump steer. The kit includes a rod end to replaced the oem end, and a longer adjuster sleeve as the rod end is shorter than the stock end. Many folks don't like rod ends, but I don't like bump steer.
Bob
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Tell U-Haul that you're towing a golf cart.
Bob
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A pic, engine, tranny numbers would help. A C6 is one piece aluminum, C4 is three piece alum, and FMX is three piece with alum bell housing and tail and cast iron center section.
Bob
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Hmm... hope I don't get banned from the site, but I kinda like it. I'd raise the ride height about an inch, and woulda spent my time doing the Mach I quarters a la Foose. Wonder why no pics of the Alston suspension. Go ahead, flame me :)
Bob
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As usual, a good thread that helps more people than the o p. Thanks!
Bob
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While there are many baby steps putting these things back together, that my friend its a big boy step! In the end you'll appreciate it knowing you did it the right way.
Bob
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Back before I tore my engine and body into 10,000 pieces, the stock worn out M code rated at 290hp ran darn well. 300 hp is nothing to be ashamed of.
Bob
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Oh year, the test was done with everything in the car. Which I guess Edelbrock's isn't, or?Engine dynos don't use the transmission.
And yes, it should have been run in 3rd gear, I think. Never heard of them not being run in the 1-1 gear.
Bob
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Mine was also a u- haul, no pics.
Bob
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I see you got the correct color trailer. I trailered a BMW 525 with my Escalade over 200 miles from LA to Fresno without issue with the tire straps.
Velly nice car.
Bob
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Wtf? I tuned in last night and they're doing their final show! This sucks, I love that show. How did I miss the announcement, is it going to another channel? That be a bummer :(
Bob
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Welcome to the herd. Quarter replacement is easier and less time than roof and A pillars every day. A lot of repairs can be done for less money than replacement, especially since you're paying for it to be done. Pics as usual would help.
Bob
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Looking good! If it makes you feel any better, when they were making my car and had areas where the floor, trans tunnel etc didn't fit flush, they merely used sealant to fill the gaps. Found this out when I blasted the body. Nice work guys. Keep up the nice work!
Bob
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Ditto, ditto, ditto! As Tim the tool man Taylor once said when he saw a chebby motor in a Ford, in Detroit it's a felony to do that. If you want to get pissed off, go visit VMF and check out a thread in the mod and custom section. Some maroon puts an ls1 into a 69. Sheesh.
Bob
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Maybe I'm a simpleton, but if you used the heads that have the 1/2" raised ports, could you not use Ron Morris style motor mounts and lower the engine 1/2" to put the headers back to square one?
Bob
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When I tore mine apart - there wasn't a spring. Took screws out of pad (from the back) to expose nut. Removed nut and then used 'normal' puller to yank it off.Yep, mine too. I see a trend.
Bob
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Thanks guys. If I'd have remembered the first post it states the answer, sheesh.
Bob
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Any updates on this?
Bob
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Wow, 8 months since I've checked in. Well, in the mean time I've added convertible inner rockers, spliced in the hump center portion of a convertible one piece seat riser, these two mods are supposed to add mucho torsional stiffness, made longer rear upper control arms and mounting brackets for better geometry, fiddled around with double adjusters for the front upper control arms but ditched that idea, this last week I've been locating and buying parts that couldn't be located since being put " away" circa 2001 in an attempt to break in the engine. Once I get the motor fired and broke in, I'll begin brake lines and electrical.
Bob
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Dang Mike, you otta be pretty good at body work when she gets back on the road. Keep plugging away.
Bob
Hedman hedder install help
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
Well, got em in without much trouble. Had to remove the complete motor mount, plugs and move the motor as far as possible to the drivers side. Installing all of the header bolts upon final installation ought to be some real fun. Think maybe I'll get some ARP header studs..
Bob