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RPM

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Posts posted by RPM

  1. Posted · Report reply

    As per this post quoted, I also started at the back, but at least I did not have to do rear 1/4's (tail panel, rear floor and chassis rail etc).

     

    Then moved onto torque boxes and floors.

     

    Always made sure I had parts to hand before any cutting.

     

    Now onto cowl panel and for this just took of and waiting for top and bottom pieces.

    Chris

     

    Hey we have a Lichfeldian on board! Welcome Silverfox, and we need pics of your Mustang!

     

    Bob

  3. Posted · Edited by RPM · Report reply

    I'll try the moronic way of posting pics with a link to my photobucket. Is it possible to caption the photos or add text?

     

    http://s782.photobucket.com/user/robertpmcdougal/library/?sort=3&page=1

     

    Got the brake lines pretty much installed, may have to redo the lines out of the matter cylinder of they're too close to the headers. Need to attach some more line clips and put some brake fluid in the system.

     

    Bob

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Sorry about the brain hurt :biggrin: but I probably should round out things by showing the formula for half elliptic leaf springs. That would be:

     

    S = 1E7 * (L * W * T)^3 / LL^3

     

    Where S = spring rate in psi

    L = number of leaves

    W = leaf width

    T = leaf thickness

    LL = leaf length

     

    Just basic physics. Pay no attention to anyone who tells you there are online tools to do the calcs.:clown:

     

    ? Are you kidding me? We're gear heads, not engineers! Jk, never knew there was a formula for it. But then again I was a criminology major, not a math major. Thanks.

     

    Bob

  13. Posted · Report reply

    From the department of redundancy department, can someone direct me to the thread showing the routing and connection points please? I can see the thread and pics in my minds eye. For some reason the search window closes when I start to type. I bookmarked it on a computer which bit the dust. I now email important hyperlinks to myself. Thanks guys.

     

    Bob

  14. Posted · Report reply

    I would only worry about the door brace if you were going to replace the floors/rockers/frame rails. If the doors are providing structural support you've got some major problems. I made my rotisserie back in the 90's before I saw any pics on the internet. The front mounted the usual way to the front bumper threaded holes in the frame rails. I mounted the rear to the four bumper mount holes in the rear panel. If I were to build it today, I would probably mount to the rear rails. However I have had the body on the rotisserie several times for long periods without issue.

     

    Bob

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Your front sits pretty high parked. I'd start by cutting half a coil till you don't have the space between the top of the tire, and the apex of the wheel opening. Shocks dampen the quick rise and fall of the springs. Yours may be worn out. If you think they need replaced or can't remember the last time you replaced them, or you haven't replaced them since you bought the car, I'd replace them. Shocks need replacing if they're leaking, or they keep bouncing.

    Nice looking car btw.

     

    Bob

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I used neither lator. I made my own out of I think 14 ga sheet I had sheared. I used Shaun's as a guide. Had about $50 in materials compared to the price of buying them. I suppose no floor would ease the pain of installation. Every time I post I try to add pics, don't know how I lucked out last nite. Shoulda kept posting pics.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    When I read about Shaun's convertible inner rocker install over at VMF, I was hooked and decided to do it along with the one piece seat riser. I had already removed the stock seat risers because the NPD Ventura phone sales guy said the conv and sportsroof were the same height. This after I axed him to compare the two. I found out otherwise when I went to pick them up. You don't need a tape measure when they're side by side. Because the conv seat riser raises the seats by one inch, I figured I could just splice in the center hump piece which goes over the tunnel. After measuring twice I cut into it. A the center piece is 1" higher than the stock risers, I made several relief cuts in it and bent down the hump ends and tacked them. Surprisingly I only had to add one small filler wedge piece on each side.

     

    The inner conv rockers were fairly easy to install, just time consuming. I can't imagine doing them without a rotisserie. The fun part was welding a zillion plug and tack welds.

     

    Crap, shoulda uploaded all my pics when I had the chance :(

     

    Bob

    SemenGex, Robertaluch, SweellTrex and 8 others reacted to this

  22. Posted · Edited by RPM · Report reply

    Let me see if I've got this pic thingy fingered out again.

     

    First pic should be upper control arm dropped 1", and 2nd pic is upper arm dropped 2". Pro Motorsports said the 69 could take up to 2" of drop. I checked the bump steer for both and the 1" worked out best. At full compression

    (2-1/2") it was 1/16" toe out. The rest of the suspension travel was dead nuts on. These pics were from over a year ago. If it works for me, I've got a few more pics to post.

     

    IMG_20120806_152709_zpsa45a9bc7.jpg

     

     

    IMG_20120806_153549_zps0d31cb76.jpg

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