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RPM

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Posts posted by RPM

  4. Posted · Edited by RPM · Report reply

    Thanks for the kind words guys. It was rather easy to fab. I had seen the mounting style in racing applications before and thought it would look and work better than the stock crushed tube end. I'm no engineer, but I think a tube with two bends is stronger than a tube with four bends. I bought some thick fender style washers that had a 3/8" hole which I put a 1/2" taper into the match the mounting bolt. I then welded the washer to the angle cut short verticle tube. I bolted those two pieces to the frame rails and fit the cross piece. I tracked it into position, and finish welded it off the car. I later welded verticle brackets to the top of the cross tube which bolt to the lower control arm mounting bolt.

     

    Bob

  6. Posted · Report reply

    I think I went down this path for my SSBC rear disc conversion. I found for the time it took me to make the weld-on line tabs, I could buy them and the clips cheaper.

     

    555-63090.jpg

     

    I found it quite easy to hand file the hex shape in the round hole. Only took about 10 minutes each. For the future, where did you find the hex hole brackets?

     

    Bob

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I did not find the clip parts, which leads me to believe they were not put in.

     

    Thanks.

     

    Does the wrist pin at piston bottom drop below the cylinder skirt with those

    pistons? If they don't they're captive and you will find them between the piston and cylinder wall. Otherwise they will drop into the pan. I don't see any damage to the wall other than the pin damage. Me thinks they were left out. Kinda odd both clips would fail on the same piston. Are these spiral locks?

     

    Bob

  10. Posted · Report reply

    That gusset is part of a Shelby mod to the crossmember. It also includes a hole for the lower control arm mounting bolt.

    I believe the stock crossmember is a poor design at best. In order to lower my motor I built a cross member with only two bends, is made from 1-1/2" chromo, and actually looks like it belongs.

    If I could post a pic I would, link to my photo bucket.

     

    http://s782.photobucket.com/user/robertpmcdougal/media/IMG_20130907_120039_zpsdbd22d14.jpg.html?sort=3&o=33

     

    Bob

  13. Posted · Report reply

    16? And bought your first classic Mustang for $2,500? Wow! Congrats and welcome to the forum. If you're anything like the rest of is here, you'll change your plans before the car is done. Fwiw, with that many cubes, and well over 500hp, saving weight with plastic windows is probably not needed. If you're going to shave weight, take it off the front end.

    BTW, this thread is worthless without pictures! No pictures =no car. Post em up.

     

    Bob

  14. Posted · Edited by RPM · Report reply

    We always go with the 351 w and stroke them to a 427.

     

     

    How do you get 427ci out of a stock 351w? Who makes the crank? Back when I stroked my 351w the max a/m crank was 393. My brother machined a Mopar crank to get 421ci. As others have said there is a lot of good stuff now from which to choose.

     

    Edit: I lied about the Mopar crank. He offset ground a 400 crank and used Mopar rods. Well, didn't really lie, just forgot and mixed up the facts.

     

    Bob

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Re your new garage/shop, garagejournal.com is a great place to get ideas. Many affordable cool places along with mega buck dream shops. My advice would be run run more electrical than you think you need, and run flexible conduit from the main or sub panel for future circuits. Future stubs are actually code in my area. Nice vehicles, including the Airstream. Good luck.

     

    Bob

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